Went out tonight to see what I could figure out. Of course I tried to start it and no go. It fired once or twice and I once again wore the battery down a bit. Pulled plug out bottom of bowl, great gas flow. Pulled #3 spark plug and it was dry but seemed as Once again it was flooded, gas dripping out throttle shaft. When I loosened the hose clamps on the carb throat gas did come out after i got the hose unstuck from it. So pulled the carb, needle looks brand new, which it practically is, made sure all passages were open with carb cleaner and air. Checked the float setting, I suppose it was maybe 1/8" too high. Dunked the float and it floated and didn't fill with liquid. Readjusted the float stuck it back together. Bowl filled got it to fire 2 times and no start. So I checked spark. Several revolutions only produced one blue spark and it seemed as it would spark when releasing the starter button. Battery voltage was 12.1 I threw the trickle charger on it and had to get the kid home. So im hoping after getting the battery charged back up it will start.
- Thread starter LisaK
- Start date
Hobo,NC
Well-known Member
- Location
- Sanford, NC
Poop don't run uphill gas don't either unless you pull it are push it......
Its the nature of the beast (up draft) for gas to build up in the air inlet of the carb if you crank it enuff and it does not fire off...
If flooding is bothering you turn the gas on long enuff to fill the carb bowl then shut the fuel off... It will take quite a bit of crank'n to empty the bowl...
That dry plug should confirms flooding is notcher issue...
Its the nature of the beast (up draft) for gas to build up in the air inlet of the carb if you crank it enuff and it does not fire off...
If flooding is bothering you turn the gas on long enuff to fill the carb bowl then shut the fuel off... It will take quite a bit of crank'n to empty the bowl...
That dry plug should confirms flooding is notcher issue...
Hobo,NC
Well-known Member
- Location
- Sanford, NC
Good unrestricted air is hard to beat... Its one of the 4 thangs needed tho some assume its a given... A engine is nuttin more than a air pump assume its a given proves your diagnostic skills are lack'n...
Hobo,NC
Well-known Member
- Location
- Sanford, NC
You really need a robust charger put it on your Christmas list... :wink:
My skills do lack in diagnosing which is
why im seeking input which i think is good
as i dont see many women now days even
interested in old tractors. With that said
I generally don't try do this on my own
but with Mr trying to get his running
again I'm pretty much on my own. And im
eager to learn because one never knows
when/if i will lose my spouse. I do know
it needs good air flow. Its got the
cyclone air cleaner on minus the jar that
sits on the shelf because its original and
I didn't want it broken and the tractor
has never left the farm in the last year
to work it. Its never been in dusty
conditions and was cleaned very well and
new oil at rebuild. So bear with me as
stupid as I may sound trying to get it
right
why im seeking input which i think is good
as i dont see many women now days even
interested in old tractors. With that said
I generally don't try do this on my own
but with Mr trying to get his running
again I'm pretty much on my own. And im
eager to learn because one never knows
when/if i will lose my spouse. I do know
it needs good air flow. Its got the
cyclone air cleaner on minus the jar that
sits on the shelf because its original and
I didn't want it broken and the tractor
has never left the farm in the last year
to work it. Its never been in dusty
conditions and was cleaned very well and
new oil at rebuild. So bear with me as
stupid as I may sound trying to get it
right
can't remember exactly what you are running over there,
but in your post, that spark issue has to be solved.
EVERY time the points open, or the EI magnet passes, a spark HAS to happen IN the proper hole. Miss a few on a cold start and the plugs will be hopelessly fouled and yer done right there.
(Capitals...I'm not yelling, it's just that important)
EI right?
Where did you pick up the switched power for the red wire?
I admit to being lazy and picking it up at the coil plus terminal,
but I always run IC14SB coils with no resistor, so no problem.
If you however, have a resistor before the coil and pick up EI power at the coil, low EI voltage will result. It might still work, they are pretty good. But with a heavy starter amp draw at the same time........doubt it....it could no spark, or occasional spark..which combined with a fouled plug or too much gas...D-R-T.
It's also very important with an EI that mounts to the existing points plate...take that plate out and clean it sparkling clean
on your bench grinder brush. The EI unit needs a good ground.
but in your post, that spark issue has to be solved.
EVERY time the points open, or the EI magnet passes, a spark HAS to happen IN the proper hole. Miss a few on a cold start and the plugs will be hopelessly fouled and yer done right there.
(Capitals...I'm not yelling, it's just that important)
EI right?
Where did you pick up the switched power for the red wire?
I admit to being lazy and picking it up at the coil plus terminal,
but I always run IC14SB coils with no resistor, so no problem.
If you however, have a resistor before the coil and pick up EI power at the coil, low EI voltage will result. It might still work, they are pretty good. But with a heavy starter amp draw at the same time........doubt it....it could no spark, or occasional spark..which combined with a fouled plug or too much gas...D-R-T.
It's also very important with an EI that mounts to the existing points plate...take that plate out and clean it sparkling clean
on your bench grinder brush. The EI unit needs a good ground.
Tall T
Well-known Member
Lisa,
One low budget fix that has always served me well, is to chip the scale off of the distributor cap poles (back side of a razor knife blade or whatever) and clean the tip of the rotor
with fine emery. If the sockets up top are at all corroded, I crank steel wool round and round in those.
When I did that to mine this summer, the tip of the rotor was practically rusted over. It is running well so the new cap and rotor I bought are still sitting on the shelf.
New plugs and made-up wire cored plug wires though.
Make sure you have your best eye glasses on because the distributor cap poles are often soft aluminum.
Terry
One low budget fix that has always served me well, is to chip the scale off of the distributor cap poles (back side of a razor knife blade or whatever) and clean the tip of the rotor
with fine emery. If the sockets up top are at all corroded, I crank steel wool round and round in those.
When I did that to mine this summer, the tip of the rotor was practically rusted over. It is running well so the new cap and rotor I bought are still sitting on the shelf.
New plugs and made-up wire cored plug wires though.
Make sure you have your best eye glasses on because the distributor cap poles are often soft aluminum.
Terry
Well Mr just came home. He said gas off it
fired once. Waited for starter to quit
spinning, pulled the choke hit starter
button, pushed choke in and it
started...out put put till she hit on all
4. Hopped off turned gas on and ran fine.
So I'll see about it Sunday again and see
if I can drain the battery and flood it
again. He even got his running and parked
out by the road for sale. Lift works great
after rebuilding last weekend. He said his
had a little different sediment bowl and
he removed a 4th small screen and it fired
right up. I hope this is the end of the
problems for awhile.
fired once. Waited for starter to quit
spinning, pulled the choke hit starter
button, pushed choke in and it
started...out put put till she hit on all
4. Hopped off turned gas on and ran fine.
So I'll see about it Sunday again and see
if I can drain the battery and flood it
again. He even got his running and parked
out by the road for sale. Lift works great
after rebuilding last weekend. He said his
had a little different sediment bowl and
he removed a 4th small screen and it fired
right up. I hope this is the end of the
problems for awhile.
I'll check the cap Sunday if I can't get
it started. Seems as I put a new cap and
rotor on. But I do have a new spare dizzy
I can steal off if I need to but I'm
hoping this is the end of the problems.
I'm guessing the intermittent spark was
due to low voltage. Which almost makes me
think back to my post about low voltage
and maybe I've got a bad battery or maybe
my food went to crap and isndraining the
battery causing low spark causing me to
flood it. Guess I'll ponder on it a bit
it started. Seems as I put a new cap and
rotor on. But I do have a new spare dizzy
I can steal off if I need to but I'm
hoping this is the end of the problems.
I'm guessing the intermittent spark was
due to low voltage. Which almost makes me
think back to my post about low voltage
and maybe I've got a bad battery or maybe
my food went to crap and isndraining the
battery causing low spark causing me to
flood it. Guess I'll ponder on it a bit
Hobo,NC
Well-known Member
- Location
- Sanford, NC
1) Charge the bat good.
2) Crank the engine a few times to burn off the top charge
3) Engine off Record the battery voltage
4) Crank the engine a few revolutions record the lowest voltage
5) Record bat voltage if it does not return very close to #3 suspect a bad bat...
All you need is a voltmeter if it has a min/max setting use it...
A 12V EI will fire the coil well down to the low 8V range maybe lower... Folks make up allot of stuff and ride it hard...
I have became a believer in using a 6V coil lately it adds more connections is its only down fall... 6V coils were used on 12V systems for 40 years and quite a few of those were with EI...
A IC14SB is a good choice but does have its issues at times...
Buy all the boost amps you can afford, for my use its 400 plus amps,,, 200 to 300 will make you a nice charger....
WRITE on the top of the charger UNPLUG POWER BEFORE REMOVING CABLES... Removing the cables with the switch on are bad connections at the cable to battery are charger killers...
My charger have a stack of diodes (20) I believe,,,, I had to replace the diode pack one time with my first charge after 15 years because of poor operating habits... Its 35 years old my BIL has it and it still works...
Add this to yer wish list..
http://www.lislecorp.com/divisions/products/?product=652
lisa carefully check your spark, even if the points and condenser are new, it doesn't mean there any good, I just had my jube do that I installed "blue streak" points and condenser, at least that was the box label, they looked like standard china junk parts which turned out they were it ran a week, then started dropping cylinders rapidly and finally shut down, acting like a fuel problem, which ive fought all summer on several tractors I messed with it for 2 days, finally went and got new points and condenser, just because they were the only thing I hadn't worked on, and it fired right up , I thinking some parts houses are selling junk in the blue streak boxes now, though how their getting the boxes is anybody's guess
tractorguy2
Well-known Member
if that POS tractor is still causing you trouble. I would be willing to take it off your hands for $10!
Similar threads
We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today.
Copyright © 1997-2024 Yesterday's Tractor Co.
All Rights Reserved. Reproduction of any part of this website, including design and content, without written permission is strictly prohibited. Trade Marks and Trade Names contained and used in this Website are those of others, and are used in this Website in a descriptive sense to refer to the products of others. Use of this Web site constitutes acceptance of our User Agreement and Privacy Policy TRADEMARK DISCLAIMER: Tradenames and Trademarks referred to within Yesterday's Tractor Co. products and within the Yesterday's Tractor Co. websites are the property of their respective trademark holders. None of these trademark holders are affiliated with Yesterday's Tractor Co., our products, or our website nor are we sponsored by them. John Deere and its logos are the registered trademarks of the John Deere Corporation. Agco, Agco Allis, White, Massey Ferguson and their logos are the registered trademarks of AGCO Corporation. Case, Case-IH, Farmall, International Harvester, New Holland and their logos are registered trademarks of CNH Global N.V.
Yesterday's Tractors - Antique Tractor Headquarters
Website Accessibility Policy