what happened to my 8n

LisaK

Member
51 side mount, 12v EI conversion. Ever since the rebuild it was simple to start. Key on, 1/4 throttle, pull choke out, hit starter button and she'd start right up. Rebuilt carb, new fuel sediment bowl and all new screens at time of rebuild, gas tank is clean less than 15 hrs ago. Fuel flows great when I can get it started. All of a sudden I cant get it started easily if at all. My magic starting procedure no longer works. Sunday I finally got it started after I flooded it trying to start it and running the battery down. Shut it off for a bit and could not get it to restart, it flooded. Am I needing to take the carb apart again. I run premium gas in it and always run the carb empty or close to when I wont get to use it again for a week. has good spark. And yes I put gas in the tank. Sometimes it will fire once and then sometimes not. Needless to say im slightly irritated with it. I tapped on the bowl thinking maybe the float was stuck and no luck. TIA
 
how is flow out of carb bowl drain plug? how about liquid gas out mouth of carb, with hose to air cleaner removed?
 
I haven't pulled the plug on it yet as it
was late Sunday and we had to get home. It
never drips out the carb mouth even when
flooded. The last time Sunday it finally
dripped out the what do u call it throttle
shaft on the the carb which it had never
done before. Maybe my float has gone to
crap? That's about the only thing that
wasn't replaced. Normally when i turn the
gas on I can see gas flowing into the
sediment bowl and the last time I couldn't
didn't matter if it was 2 turns out or all
the way out. Leads me to think float?
Seems like the 3 running tractors with
good carbs are all having problems at the
Same time. I won't have time till Sunday
to pull the carb and open it up.
 
When shut off valve & run carb dry, then float has dropped & needle valve open & ready to flow the next time you get ready to start it. Avoids a stuck closed needle valve.
This you already know, so it ought to flow out thee bowl drain plug. No flow out mouth unless float/needle valve not closing/leaking......unless of course you flood it with too much choke. Plugs may be gas fouled, too.
 
Any time you are going to be away from the tractor for over 5 minutes be sure to turn off the gas valve.

Zane
 
I always turn it off the minute I get my arse off the seat and let the carb bowl run dry to prevent the carb from gumming up with todays gasoline.
 
Ill check the flow Sunday after it won't
start and the plugs. I'm still not
understanding what could have happened. I
start and drive it around for a bit, haul
some crap maybe 2-3x's a month and up till
lately it was an easy starter. I believe
this all started with my other post about
the battery, sylenoid, voltmeter readings,
low gas.
 
Premium fuel is NOT your friend. It does not burn as quickly and will foul/carbon everything up way too soon. In your car it may up mileage by 2-3% for the first tank, but after that the carbon starts building up and all you get is pinging. I burn the lowest grade in everything and have no problems. Not suggesting this is the problem if you're on a fresh rebuild, but it's something to keep in mind.
 
Since you have disassembled the carb the settings have been disturbed and you will have to learn the new sweet spot. BTDT.
 
Nope haven't touched carb since initial settings after rebuild. Haha I wish it was that simple as to learn the sweet spot again...unfortunately patience is a virtue I lack...ask my other half :)
 
I simply run over expensive premium to avoid gumming up crap. And I rebuilt the engine 2 winters ago...less than 15 hrs in rebuild tells you how often I get to play with it. The joys of living in town. So I don't mind paying for it. I'd doubt its carboned up. I don't run premium in my pickup either I can't afford that. And I frequently blow the carbon out from in town driving on the highway on the weekends.
 
It may not help, but I know that if my N starts getting hard to start I can clean the plugs up with a wire brush and propane torch and it will fire right up. Might not help, I burn a little oil and you probably don't have that problem with your nice rebuilt engine.
 
Nope no burning oil on mine. I think
Sunday I'll try start it after making sure
the battery is fully charged, check fuel
flow, check see if plugs are wet, and take
carb apart if all else fails. Maybe
rebuild another carb so I have one on the
shelf to swap if needed.
 
You will only see gas run into the sediment bowl if it has some
place to go, i.e. into the carb that you ran empty.
If you're not seeing that, something isn't letting it run through.
Maybe the elbow screen going into the carb, maybe a stuck needle.
I'm curious how you know it is flooded.
When I flood mine gas definitely runs out the throat.
I have never had one leak gas out of the throttle rod.
I would be really concerned if it had liquid gas that high and it
didn't come out of the throat of the carb.
I know it's late, but I just don't see how that would happen.
I would check the flow out of the plug on the bottom as JMOR said.
You should have a steady stream there for a couple minutes.
It shouldn't drizzle or change amount of flow.
 
Nope never choose the green handle. One is one we just brought home so I'm thinking some debris broke loose in the carb from the 5hr drive.
 
couple thoughts from daily living here, maybe one will help.

fuel/start problems with 3 tractors at once, I got some water or muck on my last cans fill-up.

recent carb rebuild with 'new' parts....needle immediately is a suspect. If suspect, I don't trust carb weep holes. I loosen the clamp on the carb throat/aircleaner hose, stick a screwdriver
in to make a gap. turn the gas on and pull up a chair and wait and see if it drips.

tired of walking for a 7/16 wrench, all my tractors get a drain valve on the carb bowl. if the tractor has been sitting, open it and the tank valve and give it a flush before a start attempt.

if I forget and run one out of gas, I might as well pull the carb, or at least flush it some. Bottom of the tank will have probably sent some muck downstream.

if I buy a new sediment bowl, and rebuild the carb, but forget to ream out/clean that old gas line...I wasted my time...

and not really helpful, but keeps me 'calm'
if I 'miss' on my starting routine on an old machine, I don't fight.
I turn the gas off, open the carb drain, throw on the charger and walk away. When I come back later, and try again, they go...
 
Mine came with a peacock (sp?), guess a PO got tired of walking for that wrench also lol
Comes in handy as shut off valve doesn't work right and have to leave drain open when tractor not in use.
 
im not very good at explaining things sometimes. When I finally did get it started on sunday I could see the fuel flowing in the sediment bowl to fill the empty carb and never got it to start. After charging the battery, so I shut the gas off eventually got it started and smoked out all the mosquitos, turned the gas on and it ran fine, gas flowed fine. Pulled the other 8n to the shop and drove it around the yard. parked it in the driveway w/o letting the bowl run dry as I was going to be moving it soon after. Went to restart it and It would not start and there was gas dripping out the shaft. Ive never had gas drip out the carb throat. Maybe my hose clamps are too tight. In any case maybe i'll run out there tonight and pull the plug on the bottom and what not.
 

if gas is leaking out at the throttle shaft the needle and seat are leaking. Could be from a problem with the float. it could be hanging up on something or gas may have leaked inside the float making it too heavy. The hose clamps have nothing to do with it.
 
Just for fun run a jumper wire from battery to coil bypassing resister while starting.
If that help but not a total fx try another condenser.
That worked for me with symptoms about the same as yours.
No guarantees but it is simple and easy to try.
 
I don't have a resistor. Its 12 v with electronic ignition. Using a Napa 12v round coil no external resistor required.
 

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