2N Diagnostic Questions

7080316

Member
Being new to Ford Tractors and my 2N, I have some observations that I don't have the experience to explain. Please bear with me and if anything I describe is something you know about, I'd be in your debt...

First off, I am not sure how comfortable I am with the PTO shaft having no shroud to keep me from getting pulled into it. If I were to fabricate a shroud would something like that be of interest to anyone? I think it would cost in the neighborhood of $60. It costs me less as a manufacturer to build 10 vs 1. I have all the same setup time, but getting 10 parts instead of 1..

Last night when I went to tinker, I decided I wanted to test the 3 pt and see how long it will hold a heavy load. I started the tractor and headed to the field with my Ford 3pt bucket I got last week.. Load the bucket and notice as it raises, it shutters on the way up with some engine groan. Should it do that, or should it be smooth? Took about 45min for it to drop about half way.. Another 45 min and it was on the shop floor.

In my previous post I asked about the spark plug. They are oil soaked and fouled. However, the tractor does not show this to you. It nearly started immediately without any choke every time. Although, tonight I had to choke it for maybe 1/2 a second. Does this tell me anything?

When I was in the yard with the tractor I put the clutch in, which is all the way to the floorboard and to my surprise, it didn't stop. I let up and stomped on it hard and the tractor stopped before I hit the huge (3ft across) tree trunk. I look at the clutch linkage adjustment and I can see there is no more travel available. Does this tell me I need a new clutch plate, or should I just cut the rod, shorten it, and weld it back together? I have more travel on the clutch than just where it hits the floorboard..

I rebuilt the toolbox in the floorboard out of stainless steel. The original one was rusted through. While I don't need to paint stainless, I am thinking either a rubber mat or some sort of rubberizing spray. Has anyone ever used such spray and have any advice or should I just go with a rubber mat. When I put my chain and pins and whatnot in there, I don't want to hear metal on metal. Also are these floor boards an aftermarket product or an original Ford product?

I also need to replace the bushing that the clutch pedal pivots on. I am guessing that is a bigger job than it sounds, has anyone ever done that and have some advice? I suspect I have to pull the left hand hub and all of that to pull the brake shaft to get the clutch pedal off. Please correct me if I am wrong..

I have also been noticing oil pooling on the rims, wheel seals right? With the tractor in the air and in neutral, the left side tire will spin freely, the right hand spins but seems to have drag and isn't as free. I don't think it's the brakes, but I am not sure what would cause that other then a wheel bearing.

Lastly, the front bumper. Are they all made to mount to the front axle cross member thing? And is it safe to add some weight to that if a bumper is attached there?

Thanks for any advice you may have,
Jeff

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(quoted from post at 06:18:45 09/23/14) Being new to Ford Tractors and my 2N, I have some observations that I don't have the experience to explain. Please bear with me and if anything I describe is something you know about, I'd be in your debt...

First off, I am not sure how comfortable I am with the PTO shaft having no shroud to keep me from getting pulled into it. If I were to fabricate a shroud would something like that be of interest to anyone? I think it would cost in the neighborhood of $60. It costs me less as a manufacturer to build 10 vs 1. I have all the same setup time, but getting 10 parts instead of 1..

Last night when I went to tinker, I decided I wanted to test the 3 pt and see how long it will hold a heavy load. I started the tractor and headed to the field with my Ford 3pt bucket I got last week.. Load the bucket and notice as it raises, it shutters on the way up with some engine groan. Should it do that, or should it be smooth? Took about 45min for it to drop about half way.. Another 45 min and it was on the shop floor.

In my previous post I asked about the spark plug. They are oil soaked and fouled. However, the tractor does not show this to you. It nearly started immediately without any choke every time. Although, tonight I had to choke it for maybe 1/2 a second. Does this tell me anything?

When I was in the yard with the tractor I put the clutch in, which is all the way to the floorboard and to my surprise, it didn't stop. I let up and stomped on it hard and the tractor stopped before I hit the huge (3ft across) tree trunk. I look at the clutch linkage adjustment and I can see there is no more travel available. Does this tell me I need a new clutch plate, or should I just cut the rod, shorten it, and weld it back together? I have more travel on the clutch than just where it hits the floorboard..

I rebuilt the toolbox in the floorboard out of stainless steel. The original one was rusted through. While I don't need to paint stainless, I am thinking either a rubber mat or some sort of rubberizing spray. Has anyone ever used such spray and have any advice or should I just go with a rubber mat. When I put my chain and pins and whatnot in there, I don't want to hear metal on metal. Also are these floor boards an aftermarket product or an original Ford product?

I also need to replace the bushing that the clutch pedal pivots on. I am guessing that is a bigger job than it sounds, has anyone ever done that and have some advice? I suspect I have to pull the left hand hub and all of that to pull the brake shaft to get the clutch pedal off. Please correct me if I am wrong..

I have also been noticing oil pooling on the rims, wheel seals right? With the tractor in the air and in neutral, the left side tire will spin freely, the right hand spins but seems to have drag and isn't as free. I don't think it's the brakes, but I am not sure what would cause that other then a wheel bearing.

Lastly, the front bumper. Are they all made to mount to the front axle cross member thing? And is it safe to add some weight to that if a bumper is attached there?

Thanks for any advice you may have,
Jeff

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I will just say that these machine came with aa screw on cover to cover the PTO whn not in use. You see them on ebay allthe time.

Your machine never came with the foot rest. I believe the tool box version was from a 53 or 54.

You would solve nothing by cutting the clutch rod. Sounds more like the clutch stuck to the pressure plate. That may get better with use but if you can not adjust to correct free travel, it may be time to replace the clutch.
Good luck
 
An hour and a half for the three point to drop with a load?
I would consider that excellent. I sure wouldn't "fix" it.

"I had to choke it for maybe 1/2 a second"
Working as designed here too. These engines need very little
choke if any when they are tuned and running right.

"When I was in the yard with the tractor"
Were you mowing or just driving? If you were mowing the
centrifugal force of a mower can push the tractor if you're
not using an Over Running Coupler on the PTO.

Floor boards were not included on 9N/2N.
Those look to be from a Ford Jubilee/NAA. 1953-54 as said.

Sounds like axle seals leaking with the oil pooling.
While you're fixing those it would be a good combo to do your
clutch rod bushings. The hub/axle will already be out.

All the front bumpers I have seen for N series mount to the axle.
You can add some weight to them, just don't get carried away.

Best of luck with the tractor, they're great machines! :)
 
"Lastly, the front bumper. Are they all made to
mount to the front axle cross member thing? And
is it safe to add some weight to that if a
bumper is attached there?" Yes and OK to add
weight there.

"I put the clutch in, which is all the way to
the floorboard and to my surprise, it didn't
stop."

Did you have a rotary mower attached? If so the
centrifugal force of the mower will keep the
tractor moving forward even when you push down
on the clutch. Solution is to install a ORC
(overriding clutch).
 
I always added floorboards to my 9-2N's too.
All my other tractors had them, and if I forgot they weren't there, it got painful.

Could you post a pic of the entire side of your tractor?
If I remember right, that mower? bracket I think I see would position
the floorboards up and back some from a normal radius arm area floorboard mount.
This might interfere with 9-2N's pedals.
 
Did you have a rotary mower attached?

If that's the case good catch ..

If not add a clutch (its oil soaked and no good) and front input shaft seal to the restoration... The rest sounds normal to me...

OK he needs 2K to fund his project.. maybe 3K and its still gonna be a N :cry:
 
My 2N clutch peddle rests against that tab sticking outa the inspection cover, yours appears about 3/4" below it.
Something I just started doing, after realizing haven't started in 2 months, was to place a block between clutch peddle and the tab to help prevent clutch sticking.
I really like the foot rest tool box.
 
(quoted from post at 19:41:48 09/22/14) "Lastly, the front bumper. Are they all made to
mount to the front axle cross member thing? And
is it safe to add some weight to that if a
bumper is attached there?" Yes and OK to add
weight there.

Careful putting weights on the bumper. I got three of these weights that go about 75# each with my 8N and they were too much for the original Ford bumper. They broke the welds on the bumper mounting tabs.

TOH

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Thank you for all of the responses..

I didn't have a mower pushing me, just not enough travel on the clutch pedal. I am going to pick up one of the over run pto clutches today if I can make it out to TSC or Atwoods.

Updated: I made a new clutch linkage that is adjustable shorter. Seems to work perfectly, so either I needed a shorter linkage due to the floor board or not sure why else I would need to shorten the linkage past it's factory adjustments.

Attached is the side view pictures that were requested. As well as a photo of the wheel weights I picked up for $20. Not sure how heavy they were, since my back surgery I am not allowed to lift anything that is very heavy..

The stainless toolbox was the first project I made with my new to me Connecticut Press I got last week. I was delighted with how well it turned out.

I also attached a picture of the dearborn 3pt bucket I bought with the ford bucket that I have on the tractor at the moment. Any idea on the value of the dearborn? I like how the ford has worked for me in trials and not sure i need to dearborn.

Lastly, does the hood and grill look like it is worth trying to fix or should I just buy one somewhere? There are a couple 2n, 9n, and 8ns local on craigslist that are not in working order. Was thinking about buying one of them since they are in the neighborhood of 750 each if the tires were decent and the hood was decent. I figure it is about the same money to have an entire parts tractor as it is for just 1 hood and 2 tires without the rest of the parts I would get...

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gotta stay within reason loading the front bumper.
I had to brace mine to lift a small snowplow with a winch (plow off an early Bronco) Early attempt at lifting it during the fab process pulled it down like spaghetti.

your hood and grill....anything can be fixed,
but a parts tractor is always good.
Except if you are like most of us......you'd then fix both...

Glad you got the clutch fixed.
Thanks for the pics...yes, you have that bracket I was talking about.
I posted a pic showing 2 8N's, one with it, one without.
You can see the difference in the floorboard location which could be a problem on 9N-2N's.
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Edit: if you want to make something to sell, you could sell that toolbox floorboard countless times.
Every tractor I've bought that had one originally....rusted out...junk.
When one pops up on ebay....I shake my head and walk away after seeing the crazy bids.....
 

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