- Thread starter dogsled1
- Start date
John in Mich
Well-known Member
- Location
- Ypsilanti, Michigan
No. That pivot point was used for "drag behind" implements that are not mounted 3 point. Remember, the 9N was introduced into an era of a lot of horse drawn equipment. Most farmers could not afford all of the mounted "3 point" equipment and had to continue using "drag behind" stuff.
A swinging drawbar allowed the tractor to turn while pulling a disc, drag, etc. Use of the brakes helped to turn by transferring power to the wheel on the outside of the turn. The use of a rigid hitch would make it difficult to turn.
The best trailer hitch for a Ford, in my opinion is the v-bar. I have 2 and use them exclusively for trailers or wagons.
Before ever having the v-bar, we used the hitch stays up to the top link, the 11 hole drawn bar, and the swinging drawbar with pins in the 11 hole bar on either side of the swinging drawbar to keep it centered. On occasion, we pushed the swinging drawbar to the right side to pull the Woods Bros. one row corn picker or 6' Woods combine down the road to keep as narrow a profile as possible.
A swinging drawbar allowed the tractor to turn while pulling a disc, drag, etc. Use of the brakes helped to turn by transferring power to the wheel on the outside of the turn. The use of a rigid hitch would make it difficult to turn.
The best trailer hitch for a Ford, in my opinion is the v-bar. I have 2 and use them exclusively for trailers or wagons.
Before ever having the v-bar, we used the hitch stays up to the top link, the 11 hole drawn bar, and the swinging drawbar with pins in the 11 hole bar on either side of the swinging drawbar to keep it centered. On occasion, we pushed the swinging drawbar to the right side to pull the Woods Bros. one row corn picker or 6' Woods combine down the road to keep as narrow a profile as possible.
John in Mich
Well-known Member
- Location
- Ypsilanti, Michigan
You are right. There was a swinging drawbar attachment for the 9N but not like the 8N.
Del Huebner
Member
Here is another option.
Ultradog MN
Well-known Member
- Location
- Twin Cities
The underbelly drawbar, along with position control were the two biggest improvements the 8Ns had over the 9/2Ns.
I always thought the doohicky business of stay bars, drawbar lock, etc on the 9/2Ns was scary since if you had to make a sudden stop the lift arms could easily bend the stay bars and allow a trailer or whatever to be driven right up into your back.
They sell all of the parts here on YT to complete your 8N draw bar. I suggest you buy them and use that for towing trailers.
I always thought the doohicky business of stay bars, drawbar lock, etc on the 9/2Ns was scary since if you had to make a sudden stop the lift arms could easily bend the stay bars and allow a trailer or whatever to be driven right up into your back.
They sell all of the parts here on YT to complete your 8N draw bar. I suggest you buy them and use that for towing trailers.
Sorry, to be dense, but are you suggesting this
http://www.yesterdaystractors.com/9N5182_Drawbar-Heavy-Duty-Heat-Treated_778.htm
or
http://www.yesterdaystractors.com/Ford-8N_Swinging-Drawbar-Kit_49A34R.html
Small world these days, I have some relatives that live near Northfield.
Del Huebner
Member
Good point though even with the original 8N under slung mount and drawbar you still had to use stay bars.
TheOldHokie
Well-known Member
- Location
- Myersville, MD
The swinging drawbar kit replaces the OEM under-axle clevis on the 8N and is an excellent way to tow rolling equipment/implements. Using the OEM clevis and an under axle drawbar still requires the use of the 3pt lift drawbar for outboard support and comes with all of the attendant problems. Purchasing the drawbar alone is nearly as expensive as the entire kit and well worth the added $$$$. Plus it will need to be modified to work with the pin in the OEM clevis.....
TOH
Ultradog MN
Well-known Member
- Location
- Twin Cities
Not so Del.
Look at Dogsled's second link.
That's the whole kit and kaboodle and is the best, safest method for towing trailers on an 8N.
Look at Dogsled's second link.
That's the whole kit and kaboodle and is the best, safest method for towing trailers on an 8N.
Del Huebner
Member
Jerry, this is the one I was referring to.
If you have all the stabilizer bars to properly make
the crossbar hitch. You must have the anti roll
device to keep the crossbar from turning if you are
going to use a ball hitch.
However the biggest problem with this hitch, you
must have or make some type lift lever lock down.
Just one mistake getting off the tractor with the
motor running and your foot hangs that lift lever
pulling it up, believe me it's happened many times.
you will bend your stabilizer bars and maybe
destroy you trailer hitch, if you have that cross
bar lock mounted so the crossbar does not turn.
You will never be sorry you bought an under belly
straight bar hitch for your tractor,
They are so much easier to work with, a big
improvement, reason all tractors today come with
removable straight bar hitches sticking out the back
of the tractor.
Just my opinion!
the crossbar hitch. You must have the anti roll
device to keep the crossbar from turning if you are
going to use a ball hitch.
However the biggest problem with this hitch, you
must have or make some type lift lever lock down.
Just one mistake getting off the tractor with the
motor running and your foot hangs that lift lever
pulling it up, believe me it's happened many times.
you will bend your stabilizer bars and maybe
destroy you trailer hitch, if you have that cross
bar lock mounted so the crossbar does not turn.
You will never be sorry you bought an under belly
straight bar hitch for your tractor,
They are so much easier to work with, a big
improvement, reason all tractors today come with
removable straight bar hitches sticking out the back
of the tractor.
Just my opinion!
buy em both, you'll need them.
heavy trailers get hooked to the under belly one. Just like your truck. (you wouldn't jury-rig a hitch on your truck to pull a trailer would ya?)
The 11 hole one is handy to have for pulling a drag implement that would get into the tires on turns if hooked to the underbelly one.
and the underbelly one..........if you have a tractor...sooner or later you will walk up behind it dragging a heavy chain, needing to pull something.
If that swinging drawbar isn't there, or in the barn, you will be tempted to hook that chain to a place that will get you dead....
Tall T
Well-known Member
NNP
You wrote:
"The 11 hole one is handy to have for pulling a drag implement that would get into the tires on turns if hooked to the underbelly one."
Very interesting.
I had my little home made car-rear-end trailer on my swinging drawbar and found out in time that my tongue was too short, relative to the tires. I was just about to lengthen the tongue . . . but as you say, if just for now I use the multi-hole drawbar the trailer might clear the tires if it gets cocked sideways while backing up.
About the underbelly bar. Mine needs a little more steel added where the pin goes thru that sleeve. Do any of the mounting plate bolts go right through the diff housing or can I just whizz it off without worrying about gear lube?
You wrote:
"The 11 hole one is handy to have for pulling a drag implement that would get into the tires on turns if hooked to the underbelly one."
Very interesting.
I had my little home made car-rear-end trailer on my swinging drawbar and found out in time that my tongue was too short, relative to the tires. I was just about to lengthen the tongue . . . but as you say, if just for now I use the multi-hole drawbar the trailer might clear the tires if it gets cocked sideways while backing up.
About the underbelly bar. Mine needs a little more steel added where the pin goes thru that sleeve. Do any of the mounting plate bolts go right through the diff housing or can I just whizz it off without worrying about gear lube?
ya gotta do what you gotta do.
if you use a 11 hole, stay down bars are a must....you are going to put heavy stuff in that little trailer I bet...
A long toplink pinned into a hole will accomplish the same.
as far as those bolts/studs underneath....lol, never know.
normally you are fine. but if in the past 70 years someone has reef'd in a too long bolt....you'll get a bath.....
edit: I'd like to add because of all the pics you have posted
showing the terrain you operate on....
If it was me, I'd extend the tongue on the trailer, so I could keep it on the under belly drawbar.
Low and strong with no jerky surprises on that terrain for me....
don't even need a welder,
thick narrow steel plate X feet long
mount a trailer ball in the middle
clamp one end to the the trailer tongue after engaging the ball.
tractor end gets a standard c-shaped pin hitch.
hook it up and go.
need the trailer behind your truck, drop the modded plate off.
Del Huebner
Member
The bolts do not go through the casing. You can see the recesses in the picture.
Tall T
Well-known Member
Great!
Thanks guys.
I have an overkill supply of adjustable stay bars that came with the tractor, so I'll use them for sure if I do it that way. Tractor even came with that alert chain re. hydraulics.
But NNP . . . thanks for the heads up re. my terrain . . . I WILL lengthen the trailer tongue instead and "belly up to the bar".
Thanks guys.
I have an overkill supply of adjustable stay bars that came with the tractor, so I'll use them for sure if I do it that way. Tractor even came with that alert chain re. hydraulics.
But NNP . . . thanks for the heads up re. my terrain . . . I WILL lengthen the trailer tongue instead and "belly up to the bar".
Don't quite understand this statement. On my 8N the underbelly drawbar sticks out the same distance as the 11 hole one would if hooked to the lift arms. Reason I know for sure is that I just swapped the 8N onto the manure spreader (replacing the 9N with the 11 hole bar) and was concerned about the distance from the attachment point to the PTO. Noticed the hole in the under belly one lines up exactly with the balls on the lift arms, only difference is the distance from the drawbar to the PTO vs. the 11 hole bar is less so there is slightly more angle than I had before. No issue there since it doesn't run much to dump the spreader.
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