Need Help 9N

(quoted from post at 05:22:38 09/19/14) Hi, at my wits end with this tractor. A bit of history. Engine was rebuilt 4 years ago, been running great until 2 months ago when it became hard to start than would not start. Tractor mechanic replaced distributor, was shot. I had already replaced plugs, points, condenser, coil, oil/filter, l etc but to much slop. So get it back and it starts running very hot, and rough. Back to mechanic. Distributor faulty so another new distributor. Get it back, runs, but not much power and again running hot. When I shut it off I got a radiator bath out the cap, emptied radiator and engine of all fluid. (after 1/2 hour of mowing. So back to mechanic with my thought it was blown head gasket. He finds a slight leak in radiator (which it always had) send it out for repair. I get tractor back, still not running right under load, running hot. Back to tractor repair shop. New head gasket. Get it back, starts right up, idles good, runs smooth to 1/3 throttle out of gear/no load. Under load, no power runs rough. Still running hot. I notice exhaust leak around rear of manifold so I get some gaskets and fix leak. Starts right up, sounds better but still no power under load. I shut it down and go to restart it, won't start. Not firing at all.

So, I check all fuel filters, clean as a whistle. replace oil in air filter/clean. Carb bowl is filling up. Check #3,4 plugs, dry as a bone and very white. pull off carb, open up, very clean inside. Blow out all jets and holes. needles clean, look like new. (carb is 2 years old). Install new gaskets, reinstall. Engine cranks forever but will not fire. When I stop cranking gas leaks out bottom of carb. Seem to be coming from the small hole in dimple in front of drain plug. Pull plugs, all dry as a bone. Idle mix screw is at 1/3 out, main 1-3/4 turns out. Just not getting fuel. Any idea's? HELP!

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(quoted from post at 14:07:31 09/18/14) 6v or 12v? If it's 12v, tell us what resistors you have installed.

The first thing you need to do is find a new mechanic. He's taking you for a ride.

Or, you could learn to do this stuff yourself. Which is, I assume, why you are here.

That distributor problem could have been likely solved by a $7 set of bushings.

As to overheating, see tip # 24 at the link.

As R. Geiger suggested, check for spark & fuel; see tip # 13.

" Idle mix screw is at 1/3 out, main 1-3/4 turns out. "

Not correct. Both Ford and Marvel/Schebler (assuming you have a M/S carb ) say to set both the side-pointing idlemix and the down-pointing mainjet to 1-turn as a starting point. I set the down-pointing mainjet to 1-1/2 turns .

" Just not getting fuel."

Yes it is. In fact, it's getting too much fuel.

First, replace the plugs. If you flooded it, they're fouled & it will be it next to impossible to start. You don't need to toss them; heat the tips for a few seconds w/ a propane torch to burn off the invisible spark-robbing deposits from today's additive filled gasoline........or wash them in lacquer thinner.

" When I stop cranking gas leaks out bottom of carb."

The usual cause of gas dripping out of the carb throat is operator error.

While each N has its own starting sequence, none of them will start well by just yanking out the choke rod & holding it out for 5 or 10 seconds while the engine cranks. This is a gravity fuel system on a low compression engine; it is easily flooded by too much choke.

Try this:

Key on, gas on 2 full turns, clutch in, 3/4 throttle, press the starter button. Let it crank for at least 3 - 4 seconds before you pull the choke rod. Then, don't hold it out for more than 2 or 3 seconds.

If you find out it will not start w/o excessive choking, you have problems.

Post back w/ results or more questions.
75 Tips

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(quoted from post at 05:17:16 09/19/14) " I think I need to replace that junction, run new wires as they are looking kinda shabby. Also another coil, and then work on timing."

Make sure you get a 12 volt coil. (tip # 30 at the link) That way, all you need is the OEM resistor. ( as in the picture)

Replacing all the wires (along w/ the resistor & terminal block, is a good idea (see tips 27 & 42)

" and then work on timing."

Post back when you are ready to do that.

75 Tips

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(quoted from post at 12:12:29 09/27/14) Hi Bruce, got timing tool, ready to pull distributor and time. Understand most of the procedure except checking continuity. What do I set my meter on? What am I looking for a reading?

Thanks, Richard

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