8N Carb - idle circuit mfg issue???

PaulG

New User
Hi, I've never been able to get this 8N to idle w/o the choke on since i bought it. When i bought it 16 yrs ago it had a brand new carb put on by the local tractor mobile repair guy.

I've taken it apart endless times in hopes of resurrecting what should be a good 8N but to no avail.

Today after a clean out and studying the idle jet circuit it appears the circuit CAN NOT work, and I supect it was never machined correctly to allow fuel to the jet.

See the pic below, the port coming up from the lower body half (right side circled red) is not clogged but was not drilled down far enough to connect with any other passage (its a blind hole about 1/2" from the inside bottom of the float bowl) to allow fuel to the idle circuit.

Tell me this is the issue and all i have to do is drill it to the correct depth? Or which passage should it connect up to?

Thanks,

Paul G


mvphoto11043.jpg
 
Could still be just a clog, because it does end more or less as a "blind" hole, in that it intersects with the fuel well surrounding the nozzle. Further more, it decreases in diameter near the fuel well.
 


WOW! Thanks a bunch - that really sheds some light - a new perspective on cleanout taking place.

Will check it out again.

Paul
 
(reply to post at 13:56:08 09/14/14)

The first aftermarket carb I got ahold of was not drilled all the way... I managed to drill it out and held my breath the hole time... I even broke a drill bit off but got it out :shock: Once I drilled it out it ran as good as any carb I have ever had my hands on...
 
Thanks for the insight. I went back through the carb again verifying every passage on that diagram are open and clean. Back to together now.

After I find a 6V battery, i'll see how it fairs (oh the suspense).

P.S. went to the local auto parts store - $110 for a poor quality 6V battery!!!! Hmmm where to get one of these?
 
(quoted from post at 00:50:45 09/16/14) Thanks for the insight. I went back through the carb again verifying every passage on that diagram are open and clean. Back to together now.

After I find a 6V battery, i'll see how it fairs (oh the suspense).

P.S. went to the local auto parts store - $110 for a poor quality 6V battery!!!! Hmmm where to get one of these?
e sure to let me know how it runs, now.
 

Tomorrows the big day - found a battery tonight at TSC - 80$ - not bad!

Though every time i' thought i had found the carb smoking gun in the past, it never panned out. Let's hope this was it

Paul
 
(quoted from post at 14:31:47 09/14/14) Could still be just a clog, because it does end more or less as a "blind" hole, in that it intersects with the fuel well surrounding the nozzle. Further more, it decreases in diameter near the fuel well.

truly a good pic
You should post it on every single MS carb thread that pops up.
Vertical tube with a bottleneck shape at the bottom,
sediment, rust scale and gravity says it HAS to clog sooner or later...

To the original poster.
before you throw the carb back on, check the throttle shaft bushing/seal carefully.
Working on a little JD with a similar MS carb.
I haven't went thru the carb yet, good runner,
but a slight lope at idle can't be adjusted out.
watching the governor rod at the carb, I thought I saw the slightest shake.
misted carb cleaner on the throttle plate shaft back there, and the lope went away.
It's pulling just enough air around the shaft to mess up the idle mixture a little. easy fix.
(95% of the tractors I get that have recent carb work, new gaskets, screws, etc.....that bushing hasn't been touched....)
 
(quoted from post at 06:52:04 09/21/14)
(quoted from post at 14:31:47 09/14/14) Could still be just a clog, because it does end more or less as a "blind" hole, in that it intersects with the fuel well surrounding the nozzle. Further more, it decreases in diameter near the fuel well.

truly a good pic
You should post it on every single MS carb thread that pops up.
Vertical tube with a bottleneck shape at the bottom,
sediment, rust scale and gravity says it HAS to clog sooner or later...

To the original poster.
before you throw the carb back on, check the throttle shaft bushing/seal carefully.
Working on a little JD with a similar MS carb.
I haven't went thru the carb yet, good runner,
but a slight lope at idle can't be adjusted out.
watching the governor rod at the carb, I thought I saw the slightest shake.
misted carb cleaner on the throttle plate shaft back there, and the lope went away.
It's pulling just enough air around the shaft to mess up the idle mixture a little. easy fix.
(95% of the tractors I get that have recent carb work, new gaskets, screws, etc.....that bushing hasn't been touched....)
hank you, NNP. We try.
 
Ok the outcome:

Runs better than it ever did. Starts without chock and will idle at low rpm w/o choke.

Observations:
Lopy idle and perhaps an occasional electrical miss.
Idle mixture screws has some effect on idle speed - certainly will not richen it up to the point of black haze in the exhaust but will slow the speed down when too rich
Idle mixture screw only about 1.5 turns out is best running perhaps .5 turn out compared to highest rpm.
Idle mixture screw all the way in won't kill the engine - odd?
Not a very good transition from 400 rpm to 1000 rpm or so - not much response in the first portion of the throttle lever.

My points were pretty bad - only about 4yrs old but they had infinite resistance when closed. I ran a few passess of 600 grit paper between the contacts (both sides). This is interesting, even after the 600 grit, still no continuity with points closed. Run a piece of paper through them and would get about 0.3 to 0.4 Ohms resistance. Cleaned with IPA, then cleaned with paper, lost continuity. Repeated the 600 grit procedure then back to continuity. Are points that finicky? Is it hard to restore them - I bet they only had about 10 hours run time on them.

Running video is here: http://youtu.be/r3jjNmduyes

Thx - Paul
 
(quoted from post at 05:44:43 09/22/14) Ok the outcome:

Runs better than it ever did. Starts without chock and will idle at low rpm w/o choke.

Observations:
Lopy idle and perhaps an occasional electrical miss.
Idle mixture screws has some effect on idle speed - certainly will not richen it up to the point of black haze in the exhaust but will slow the speed down when too rich
Idle mixture screw only about 1.5 turns out is best running perhaps .5 turn out compared to highest rpm.
Idle mixture screw all the way in won't kill the engine - odd?
Not a very good transition from 400 rpm to 1000 rpm or so - not much response in the first portion of the throttle lever.

My points were pretty bad - only about 4yrs old but they had infinite resistance when closed. I ran a few passess of 600 grit paper between the contacts (both sides). This is interesting, even after the 600 grit, still no continuity with points closed. Run a piece of paper through them and would get about 0.3 to 0.4 Ohms resistance. Cleaned with IPA, then cleaned with paper, lost continuity. Repeated the 600 grit procedure then back to continuity. Are points that finicky? Is it hard to restore them - I bet they only had about 10 hours run time on them.

Running video is here: http://youtu.be/r3jjNmduyes

Thx - Paul

I would replace the points with some high quality ones! They corrode just siting around, especially if they are closed.
 
(quoted from post at 23:06:37 09/21/14)

I would replace the points with some high quality ones! They corrode just siting around, especially if they are closed.

I'll replace the points.

Here is a video that is much easier to listen to the engine:

http://youtu.be/RF1t1Y_2Fuc
 
(quoted from post at 23:06:37 09/21/14)

I would replace the points with some high quality ones! They corrode just siting around, especially if they are closed.

I'll replace the points.

Here is a video that is much easier to listen to the engine:

http://youtu.be/RF1t1Y_2Fuc
 

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