Woods M5 tail wheel

Caryc

Well-known Member
I know this is a long shot but I need the whole tail wheel assembly for a Woods M5 mower.
 
Whole assy as in brackets and all to mount to the deck? If so, you might need to fab one up or contact woods. If you just need the wheel "assembly" ( wheel, tires, axle, caster and spindle ) you could probably find that at your local tractor/ag store, or try google or online search.
 

So you must have backed into something? It happens. A friend borrowed the assembly off mine when he was headed for camp and didn't really trust the repair on his. He ended up buying a new one, and I don't believe that it was outrageous.
 
(quoted from post at 05:03:26 09/12/14)
So you must have backed into something? It happens. A friend borrowed the assembly off mine when he was headed for camp and didn't really trust the repair on his. He ended up buying a new one, and I don't believe that it was outrageous.

No, I didn't back into something. The mower came with the tractor and someone had really farmerized the tail wheel. You can see what he did in the picture. Everything is welded on. He didn't even make the vertical axis straight on it. So if you turn with the wheel on the ground it goes sideways and wants to dig into the ground. I usually have to put a new wheel on it every season and always keep a spare in the shed.

As it is, I mostly try running with the tail wheel just off the ground.

If I could get the parts from Woods, it would cost me more than buying a used mower which I can't find in my area anyway.

TailWheel-Bad.jpg
 
How good is the weld? Can you grind it away and reweld it? Would be worth a try before buying more parts to me. All else fails you can then spend money for replacement parts.
 
"So if you turn with the wheel on the ground it goes
sideways and wants to dig into the ground."

I would think sway bars would prevent that.
 
(quoted from post at 08:52:36 09/12/14) "So if you turn with the wheel on the ground it goes
sideways and wants to dig into the ground."

I would think sway bars would prevent that.

You don't quite get it. The mower does not go sideways, the wheel goes sideways. Look at the first picture I posted. See the arrow in the picture? For a castor type wheel to work the top part where it's welded must be 90 degrees to the ground. When it's not, if you turn the wheel on it's swivel the wheel starts to lean over on it's side.

I think the guy welded it on crooked like that because if he'd mounted it straight up like he should have the back of the mower would have been to high up off the ground since nothing is adjustable.

See the pics below. I took those standing right over the wheel. When the wheel is going straight forward, it's fine. But, swivel the wheel as in making a turn and the wheel starts to lay over on it's side as in the bottom picture. The wheel should stay straight up and down so you can see the axle like that.

DSC03483_zps90b8bc40.jpg

DSC03484_zpsff82b6d3.jpg
 
(quoted from post at 08:51:29 09/12/14) How good is the weld? Can you grind it away and reweld it? Would be worth a try before buying more parts to me. All else fails you can then spend money for replacement parts.

If I welded it on straight like it should be, the wheel would hold the back of the mower too high off the ground. I think that's why the idiot welded it on crooked like that.
 
(quoted from post at 14:27:30 09/12/14)
(quoted from post at 08:51:29 09/12/14) How good is the weld? Can you grind it away and reweld it? Would be worth a try before buying more parts to me. All else fails you can then spend money for replacement parts.

If I welded it on straight like it should be, the wheel would hold the back of the mower too high off the ground. I think that's why the idiot welded it on crooked like that.

No matter what you decide you need to grind the weld. You are correct. He probably didn't realized that slanting the wheel like that would take the swivel out of the geometry of the setup.

Anyhow the wheel assy looks to be in good shape and I would definitely reuse it.

Get a-hold of some flat stock. Same thickness as the flat that the wheel bracket is mounted to now and cut it to length so you can can lay about 12 inches along the top of the existing flat extension that the wheel assy welded to and have it over-hang the edge by about 6 inches. So 18 inches in total.
Weld it the new flat onto the old flat along its edges. I would probably weld on a flange on either side for added support.Below is a quick drawing.


mvphoto10965.jpg
 

Thanks for the drawing. I've been using this mower like it is for ten years. I kind of would like to have the regular adjustable wheel set up.

I think that if I was going to go through the trouble of fixing it as you suggested in your drawing, I would go with a bigger wheel and yoke. The wheel on it now is only 8". Not really that good on rough ground even when it runs straight.
 

I was curious to see what the tail end of an M5 looks like. I think that yours was very much modified.
You need a length of 2 "sq tube and an old brush hog wheel assy that you probably get at an old tractor yard. The rest is just a little welding.


mvphoto10972.jpg
 

I know what it looks like, I've seen the pictures too and I have the parts drawings of it. Mine has not been modified. It's been screwed up.

There are no old tractor yards here, that's why I turned to this forum in case anyone had seen a scrapped Woods M5 in their area.
 
I'd grind the weld off and then drill and bolt it at the correct angle. Bolted you could drill additional holes to make it adjustable for height.

Rick
 
(quoted from post at 07:59:04 09/13/14) I'd grind the weld off and then drill and bolt it at the correct angle. Bolted you could drill additional holes to make it adjustable for height.

Rick

You must have missed it when I said "If the top of it was straight up and down as it should be, then the wheel would have the back of the mower too high."

I think that's why the previous idiot welded it on crooked in the first place.
 
Is the tailwheel height ajustable at all?
Are you willing to modify it?
I like the ajustablelity in graywolf's picture more than what is on my 'green' machine.
I might farmerize mine to be like that next spring.
Unless I can interest Mr. Howell in it since it has the right name tag that is ~wink~ LOL
 
(quoted from post at 10:01:56 09/13/14) Is the tailwheel height ajustable at all?
Are you willing to modify it?
I like the ajustablelity in graywolf's picture more than what is on my 'green' machine.
I might farmerize mine to be like that next spring.
Unless I can interest Mr. Howell in it since it has the right name tag that is ~wink~ LOL

It would cost me over $600 to buy the parts you see in graywolf's photo. That's why I was hoping to find them used.
 
(quoted from post at 08:50:32 09/13/14)
(quoted from post at 07:59:04 09/13/14) I'd grind the weld off and then drill and bolt it at the correct angle. Bolted you could drill additional holes to make it adjustable for height.

Rick

You must have missed it when I said "If the top of it was straight up and down as it should be, then the wheel would have the back of the mower too high."

I think that's why the previous idiot welded it on crooked in the first place.

If it's adjusted right the back of the mower is higher than the front.

You've had many suggestions on how to fix and you don't seem to like any of them. You waiting for someone to say they will fix it for you or something?
Rick
 
(quoted from post at 10:37:07 09/13/14)
(quoted from post at 08:50:32 09/13/14)
(quoted from post at 07:59:04 09/13/14) I'd grind the weld off and then drill and bolt it at the correct angle. Bolted you could drill additional holes to make it adjustable for height.

Rick

You must have missed it when I said "If the top of it was straight up and down as it should be, then the wheel would have the back of the mower too high."

I think that's why the previous idiot welded it on crooked in the first place.

If it's adjusted right the back of the mower is higher than the front.

You've had many suggestions on how to fix and you don't seem to like any of them. You waiting for someone to say they will fix it for you or something?
Rick

[b:fedbc036cb]There's no reason to get so snarky about it.[/b:fedbc036cb] If you'll read my original post again, I was not looking for suggestions on how to fix it.

I was looking for original parts. I've seen people all the time come looking for parts here and other people have stuff laying around their yards or barns.

I do thank the people that offered suggestions but as I said, I was hoping to get the original parts or at least some of them.
 

Don't know where you buy your steel from but my suggestion in regards to steel would set you back $20 at most and nothing at all if you had some laying around like probably the rest of us do.

No one jumped on this thread offering you a Woods wheel assembly for you to buy so obviously what is the next best choice, fabricate something on your own.

Sorry if I offended you but your snide remarks are not warranted one bit.

As far as I'm concerned this thread is dead. I have many other threads that I can offer my help on the best way I can and only to repay all the help I received here in the past.
 
(quoted from post at 11:13:32 09/13/14)
Don't know where you buy your steel from but my suggestion in regards to steel would set you back $20 at most and nothing at all if you had some laying around like probably the rest of us do.

No one jumped on this thread offering you a Woods wheel assembly for you to buy so obviously what is the next best choice, fabricate something on your own.

Sorry if I offended you but your snide remarks are not warranted one bit.

As far as I'm concerned this thread is dead. I have many other threads that I can offer my help on the best way I can and only to repay all the help I received here in the past.

I consider this forum a regular gold mine of knowledge for problems. I went back and re read all my responses and I don't see any snide remarks that I made.

The only snide remark was this one [color=red:c84c8c9638]You've had many suggestions on how to fix and you don't seem to like any of them. You waiting for someone to say they will fix it for you or something?[/color:c84c8c9638] made by oldtanker.

Other than that, if I offended anyone it was not because it's what I intended. I was just hoping to find some of the original parts.

I also thanked those who made suggestions. I don't what else you want me to do. Would you please list the snide remarks that I made so I will know what you are referring too?

If you go back and check, you'll see that I also thanked you for your drawing so I really can't figure out what you're so upset about.
 
"You must have missed it when I said "

Was what you replied to me. No I didn't miss it. I was merely making sure you knew how to properly adjust the mower. But your reply wasn't a "what I really want are the original parts" reply, now was it.

Seeing as how no one piped up with "hey I got what you need" and you shot down every reply trying to help you and we are supposed to be grateful for your presence? As far as I'm concerned at this point I could have 20 of those things laying around and I'd tell you watch this as I posted a vid of a cousin running them through his crusher.

Rick
 
(quoted from post at 18:37:06 09/13/14) "You must have missed it when I said "

Was what you replied to me. No I didn't miss it. I was merely making sure you knew how to properly adjust the mower. But your reply wasn't a "what I really want are the original parts" reply, now was it.

Seeing as how no one piped up with "hey I got what you need" and you shot down every reply trying to help you and we are supposed to be grateful for your presence? As far as I'm concerned at this point I could have 20 of those things laying around and I'd tell you watch this as I posted a vid of a cousin running them through his crusher.

Rick

I still don't see what upset you. I know that the back of the mower is supposed to be higher than the front to prevent double cutting.

When I said "if the wheel was straight the back would be too high. That's what I meant. It would be too high as in higher than it should be even with the mower adjusted right.

Man, you're just wound too tight. You take everything I say as a personal insult. As I said before nothing I said was meant that way.

I didn't shoot down every reply as you said. I merely said that I wasn't looking for ways to fix it, I was hoping some of you guys might have or know someone that had some original parts that were still usable.

I did thank the guys that offered suggestions. You must have missed that part.
 
I see the pickle your in.
Guess you gonna just have to keep picking it up at end of row to turn cuz your not willing to do what most on here are willing to do.
If were me I would just get $40-$50 worth of steel and fab up what I want......ORRRRR I would go dumpster diving and get most of steel for FREE. Or do like my buddy does, looks in his friends metal sprap pile (like mine that I got free from dumpster diving).
 
(quoted from post at 19:18:56 09/13/14) I see the pickle your in.
Guess you gonna just have to keep picking it up at end of row to turn cuz your not willing to do what most on here are willing to do.
If were me I would just get $40-$50 worth of steel and fab up what I want......ORRRRR I would go dumpster diving and get most of steel for FREE. Or do like my buddy does, looks in his friends metal sprap pile (like mine that I got free from dumpster diving).

I have five acres here to keep clear of weeds and I've been using the mower that way for ten years. I usually run the mower high enough so the wheel does not contact the ground. But I do run into the occasional high spots. The mower as it is does the job of keeping the weeds down, so fixing the tail wheel is not a high priority job for me right now.

Like I said, I usually have to replace that wheel every year which is not a big problem since they are less than ten bucks at Harbor Freight.

That thing though is on my "things I have to do one day list" when I get time. You know how that is. I just thought I'd check here to see if anyone knew where I could get the correct parts or at least some of them.

I do have a buddy just down the road from me that has a mig welder and could do the job for me. I could just drive the tractor to his house with the mower on it. He has already welded up some cracks around the skirt edges of it for me. I also mow down the weeds on his place when he requests it.

If I did fix it, I'd use a bigger wheel and fork. That wheel on it is only 8 inches in diameter and not really suited for the job.

I really want to thank everyone that offered suggestions though. As I said this forum is a gold mine of information and I appreciate all the knowledge and experience here.
 

I have an M-5 that is about thirty years old. Mine is in decent shape, but these things do take a beating and I expect that many end up in fence rows. I also have fabrication capability but I think that if I needed a complete tail wheel assy. That I would first look for a used one since they have to be out there.
 
I see both the problem and your intent.
Correctly mounted tail wheel is pretty important for me as I do let most of the weight of the mower ride on it and just carry the front.
You might find original parts. But it might have been a design flaw on that model and they all broke back there.
So you might be looking for a long time to find a good one.
Some things I really do try to keep original. But if it is a problem area I have no qualms about grabbing the torch and welder and fixing it to suit my needs.
A cobble job will devalue things but a nice clean fix doesn't.
 
hope you find what you are looking for, but doubtful.
Those tail wheels and their assembly take a pounding.
Good one will probably be attached to a good mower....not for sale.

look at it this way. If you want it fixed, no matter what, proper parts or homebrew, you have some cutting, grinding to do.
That upright steel going back to the wheel isn't supposed to be welded to the deck, and those bent tab bars running to it aren't supposed to be welded to it either.
The PO eliminated all adjustment doing that, then he messed up the wheel mount too......mess.

Proper setup pic is here and you have said you have the diagram too.
If the guy in the factory can make it, so can you.
(and without the factory overhead costs)
And like mentioned, when you are making something, if you see a 'better' way, do it.
After all, that's what factory engineers do every year.
(factory engineers are smart fellas, but not aliens or a deity......so changing their design or goof is no big deal)
good luck

ps factory parts...$600?...lol, at that price it better be attached to a mower AND a tractor to pull it.....
 
(quoted from post at 03:31:07 09/15/14) hope you find what you are looking for, but doubtful.
Those tail wheels and their assembly take a pounding.
Good one will probably be attached to a good mower....not for sale.

look at it this way. If you want it fixed, no matter what, proper parts or homebrew, you have some cutting, grinding to do.
That upright steel going back to the wheel isn't supposed to be welded to the deck, and those bent tab bars running to it aren't supposed to be welded to it either.
The PO eliminated all adjustment doing that, then he messed up the wheel mount too......mess.

Proper setup pic is here and you have said you have the diagram too.
If the guy in the factory can make it, so can you.
(and without the factory overhead costs)
And like mentioned, when you are making something, if you see a 'better' way, do it.
After all, that's what factory engineers do every year.
(factory engineers are smart fellas, but not aliens or a deity......so changing their design or goof is no big deal)
good luck

ps factory parts...$600?...lol, at that price it better be attached to a mower AND a tractor to pull it.....

I was hoping someone may have run across one with a totally trashed gearbox or something like that with a salvageable tail wheel assembly. A new gear box for that thing is over $1100.

Might be someone didn't want to pay that and just bought himself a used mower.

If I could get a used mower in good shape for $600 or so around here, I'd jump on it. Unfortunately I'm not in a "tractor" or used anything area.
 

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