Ultradog MN

Well-known Member
Location
Twin Cities
Err, I mean brazing...
Well my cranky old Miller welder didn't want to run right today. I think it needs a carb kit.
Had some good Nickel rod for this project too.
Then I remembered I had some brazing rod stashed in the garage so I broke out the torch and brazed this cast iron end bracket for the cultipacker I bought last week.
I used to be good at brazing - make it puddle nice and even. But that was a long time ago and I'm way out of practice.
I still can do it though, even if it's not so pretty anymore. Biggest thing is I think it's a good repair. Ought to last a long time.

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Looks like a nice thorough job. I probably wouldn't have Vee'd it right to open space but you probably know what you're doing -- or maybe after the vee'ing out you butted the two pieces together before brazing.

Someone rebuilding an old International 6 was told to bring the broken manifold to me and to this day I can't figure out why.
Anyway . . . the end mounting tab was broken off the exhaust manifold and doing what you just did with brass, I got lucky, even though that end would be under pressure when bolted back to the head.

I told him to make darn sure the mating faces of intake and exhaust were on exactly the same plane before bolting it on.

Cheers,
T
 
I don't think you've lost your touch, looks great to me.
Should last fine unless you hit something really hard!
 
Great post & photos Jerry. I learned something. Is the cultipacker to use with the Dearborn 2-row planter or did you get it sold? Thanks.
 
U can practice on some of my stuff if u think u need it. U could practice blindfolded on my equipment if u really wanted to.
 
Terry,
I opened it up this wide on purpose.
Brazing doesn't penetrate into the base metal like welding does where you can take the arc/rod and dig it right down into the root of the V. It's also not like solder or silver solder that will flow into cracks and crevices. This stuff just lays on the top so you get both sides hot and then start puddling the rod into the groove, bridging the gap as you go.
You do it with one pass, not multiple passes like arc welding.
I did braze it from both sides though and made the second side melt/puddle into the first side.
 
Rick,
I advertised that planter with good pictures on CL 3 or 4 times and never got a call. Was both surprised and disapointed as I thought it was priced right for an operable, collectible planter($350). Then out of the blue a guy called me and wanted to look at it.
He bought it - wanted it to plant corn about 6 rows wide to create a snow fence for his long driveway. He will use it behind his 8N so it's a nice fit.
So the whole deal worked out for both of us.
How bout yours? Any progress on it this summer?
It would be nice to see some photos here when you get it done.

Dean, Tim, Royce, and FLOLDFORD - thanks!

Here's a pic of the planter.

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(quoted from post at 04:11:51 09/06/14) Terry,
I opened it up this wide on purpose.

Jerry,

Sorry but I guess I didn't make my point clear. I wasn't questioning the width or the depth of your V. I was just thinking that if the two chisel points of each half are just barely touching before you started the fill, then the two halves of the work are leaning on each other to a degree in the event of lateral or twisting force on the weld, the joint would be a tad less dependent on the brass.

But maybe that is totally insignificant. :)

Beautiful job anyhoo.

T
 
I agree with what u said about the planter, at that price i would think someone would have been on it pretty quick. A little paint and it would look real good. I see em like that around here all the time except they look like a tornado has picked em up and re-aranged a few parts then rolled down a hill. Still more than $350.
 

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