9n

My cousin has I what I presume to be a 9n by the pic. He was wondering what a rebuild costs and I told him it cost me a grand for my 51 8n...Here's his problem....Says it has low compression cause it wont start w/o pull starting it. I might add he didn't know till deep in the conversation if it was a 9/2/ or 8n. Its a front mount with I beam and 9/2 rear end. anyhow...Im not familiar with 9/2n's yet as we've only done 8n's so far. He hasn't done a compression test. He doesn't even know what the oil pressure is or if the guage works. So I told him we would stop by and check it out because if it doesn't need a rebuild theres no sense throwing all that money into it. Im not familiar with the electronics. I know bright shiney connections, fully charged battery, check the spark and carb flow out the bottom of the carb. any chance its the ignition switch? Bad wiring? I and I could be wrong but if it had low compression it wouldn't start with pulling right? Im headed up his way tomorrow to an auction to watch an 8n and would like to take anything with me I need to run some tests. Its 12v

Here it is

Looks like a 9N or early 2N to me.
Doesn't really matter in this case I though.
I can't help you much with the wiring because it's not original.
Someone has rigged it up to use a solenoid. Probably have to trace it out.
Hopefully it is just not spinning fast enough with the battery to
get it to fire. Weak battery, dirty connections, too small of battery
cables if it is still 6V, wrong or too many resistors, etc.

Could have a low voltage problem at the coil while the engine is cranking.

Lisa........BIG HINT.......9N/2N's have 3-speed trannys, only 8N's have 4-speed tranny. Generally speaking 12-volt conversions do NOT need pull starting....unless....very LOW compression, as in stuck piston rings. A 1-oz dose (squirt) of ATF (automatic transmission fluid) down each sparkie hole will generally un-stick stuck rings inna day. Crank yer engine with NO sparkies to make certain you do NOT have hydraulic lock. It will BLOW enny ATF out the sparkie hole. ATF will generally slip/leak down past the piston rings as it sits.

Ford spec's fer the 9N/2N/8N is 90psi min. New rebuilt engine is about 125psi.

Keep yer ittchy-twitchy fingers off'n them handy-dandy carb tweek'ums. First thing DPO's do is grab a screwdriver and tweek when their engine don't wanna start. Carbs are the LAST thing to tweek when yer tractor (or BelchFire-V8) don't wanna start. First thing is POINTS.

Iff'n yer cousin has the weird 4-nipple front mount, it is designed to be removed and points (and timing) is done on the kitchen table. Just un-snapple yer capple and letter dangle and walk to the kitchen. Adjust the front mount points to 0.015" and drag a new dollar bill (or strip of HEAVY brown grocery bag) thru the closed points to POLISH the INVISIBLE corrosion (and oil) from between the point so they won't BURN.

For summ reason, points are always sold with new condenser. Surprizingly enuff, condensers very seldom wear out. And even more amazing, BOTH yer points and condenser are good fer either 6-or-12 volts. (actually the condenser is good fer over 100-volts)

Finger start yer two front mount dizzy bolts and install yer ROTOR. Now rotate yer rotor until the OFFSET tang falls into the OFFSET camshaft slot. Now tighten yer 2-bolts and re-snapple yer capple. Simple, eh?

We recommend AutoLite 437's gapped 0.025. While yer 9N/2N/8N has a known weak sister switch, its NOT yer problem as described. (ps...I installed a WATER-PROOF toggle switch from a marine supply store)......sparkie Dell

Alright, if it will pull start then u know it has the basic wiring in place to run right? Of course full up batt and check for spark and gas, u know all of that. Here's what i would go by, you know what a 12v N sounds like when u hit the switch. If it sounds good to you, ie starter engages spins up fast and strong, then its probably not the problem and maybe u should start looking at the engine. Besides basic tools i would take something to check spark with, a timing light would b great with a bottle of ur least fav light color of nail polish or a white paint marker, starting fluid, compression tester, oil, known good OP gauge and the plumbing that goes with... Idk how much time u wanna spend on it? Check firing order condition of wires and plugs, maybe take an old set of plugs. Good luck with it.

Thanks everyone. I did tell him to out some atf in and put the plugs back in till we got there.

Got it running! Cleaned and adjusted the points. They werent even opening.

Hard to tell for sure but looks like the I-Beam radius rods which makes it more then likely a 9N.

Looking at that picture, I would buy a wiring loom and cut all the old stuff off and rewire it. There aren't that many connections and it can make a world of difference. They aren't that expensive (under $25.00) and come with directions if you are concerned. Royce mentioned the wrong solenoid. I just did one with the wrong solenoid on it too and, funny thing, the OEM one still on the tractor was just fine. Hope this helps.

We got it running fairly simple for him. First thing I noticed was the gas was left on and the bowl was dripping down onto the block. The push button was not in use anymore it has a start run type key switch which is very touchy and made it hard to start. Battery was dead and after checking for spark and only got one crappy little spark we pulled the distributor after verifying power to the coil with a test light. The points were not opening at all. Cleaned them and adjusted them and we got it to fire and run. It was pretty low on oil and has a slight knock. But very good op. The pan was welded on quite a bit and the right steering arm was welded to the spindle. No dipstick to check the tranny fluid on the right side or by the shifter. I told him I'd get him a different cover for the right side with a dipstick. If it was mine I wouldn't even think about rebuilding it when the time comes. I did yell him to get a new battery for it.