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weak spark

T

Tiger Joe

Member
Starting a new thread on my current points.

First, yes the battery is charged.

Everything, and I literally mean everything electrical, is new in the last year or less.

Tractor was starting fine all winter and most of summer. I could hit the starter button in 0 degree weather and it fired in a few revolutions.

Lately, it turns over longer before it starts. Recently, it sat for two weeks while I was gone, and when I tried to fire it, I flooded it. I pulled the intake tube clamp, gas poured out, and it fired up.

So, because I flooded it, I pulled the plugs and cleaned em. next day tried and its still slow to start.

I checked spark. tractor will jump a 3/16 gap, but not a 1/4. same on all cylinders. I threw the battery on a charger for 30 min to ensure it was up, and pulled the distributor. Ensured points gapped at .015 and did a visual of everything else- nothing looks out of place.

What would be the next place to check?
 
Points get corrosion on them, especially in humid
environments. Run a dollar bill or piece of brown
paper between the points and see if that helps. Use
a quality set of points when you replace them.
 
(quoted from post at 11:46:56 09/02/14) after cleaning points anything?

wha's voltage at top of coil with points closed?
Click to expand...

Didnt check voltage at top of coil. can try to do that tonight.
what is the spec that is should be? I do have a spare coil laying around I believe

no change after pulling dist and reinstall.

I'm thinking maybe its the cheapo points. I can't remember right now, but I think these are still cheapo points from TSC. I do have a spare set of points from carquest sitting on the self. Not sure if they are the good blue streak points or not though- I asked for a good set of points, this is what i got. they are in a carquest box though
 
chances are anything from cq is better than tisco...


chep it before replacing.

tisco WILL work.. but are just lower quality, and wear out faster.. corrode easier. rubbing block wears down.. sometimes their holes are not drilled correctly to adjust and you have to file them.. sometimes the points don't strike square making gap off or making it burn.. sometimes the hinge insulator goes bad shorting them.. etc.. etc.
 
I checked voltage a top of coil. Read 2.4 v on a 6volt system.

Battery was a bit low at 6.3( probably from doing more testing yesterday after charge)

So I think the spec is 2.5 at top of coil. So mine should be ok.
 
(quoted from post at 19:58:09 09/02/14) But sometimes they actually look like points..
Click to expand...

Ummm...what?



I tossed in the carquest points since I had them. I have little faith as they look IDENTICAL to the cheapo points I had.

I checked spark after changing points and a [i:be056a9c78]slight[/i:be056a9c78] improvement. One time it jumped the 1/4". But that was it
 
Found amazon sells blue streak.

Got everything- points, condenser, cap, rotor for $40 and never got out of my pjs!

Ordered em just to toss on my shelf. Will continue to try to diagnose what I had before I simply throw parts at it
 
Experience a few months ago at OReillys---bought two
sets within two days that were bad--for 65 Mustang--
first set had holes not slotted enough to be able to
adjust to the correct setting--second set was
grounded out where the two halves hinge together----
-took em back and went to Napa and got decent
points.
 
well I did some more trouble shooting tonight.

this is still using all of my 1 year old stuff, no new blue streak stuff yet.

battery fresh off the battery tender, tractor started, but not what i call great. I may be being optomistic, but I want hit the key and fire, not "play with the throttle and choke just right and it starts"

so i let it run and pulled it outside. I checked voltage at top of coil and it was only reading 2.2. i know the resistance changes as the tractor heats up, but cant remember to what?

I swapped out a spare coil I have, and checked spark. at first nothing but i kept messing with it and i did get it to jump 1/4" gap pretty consistently.

Then as I was digging thru my parts stash I remembered- the resistor is the ONLY thing i didnt change on the tractor- because I bought one but it was not a "good" one and it touched my ammeter and was toast.

so my two questions would be:

1- what should my voltage reading at the top of my coil be cold and warm?
2- what is a good source for a quality resistor and possibly a coil?
 
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