1949 Ford 8N won't start / no spark... advice needed

This message is a reply to an archived post by JBinNY on October 07, 2008 at 10:35:52.
The original subject was "1949 Ford 8N wont start no spark... advice needed".

Hey all, new to forum been doing alot of reading and still no headway on my 1949 8N front mount distributor. Alil about the tractor its a 1949 8n Front Mount Dist. and im having a problem. The problem is im not getting spark to my plugs. I have been following this post very closely and trying all things suggested but im still alil lost. I have replaced the voltage regulator, voltage reducer, coil, points, distributor cap, rotor cap, plugs, plug wires, wire to the coil, ign. condenser, and i have tried strectng the spring on the coil for better conductivity.I have replaced everything besides the Ign. Switch...

I bought this tractor from an older man who last had it running about 4 yrs ago and i had a small spark once and then noticed the voltage reducer was burned in half so i replaced it. Now the tractor has had the conversion done to it so it has the gm alternator on it. I also check all places possible with my multimeter and i have power going all the way down to the distributor and the power on the multimeter is reading 12v i dont know if thats a problem or not since its been converted from 6v to 12v, i also found out that there are 2 different coil a 6 and 12 but i was informed that ishould still get spark even if i have the wrong one.?. I have the points gaped at the prefferred setting with what folks were saying on here at .015. I also check the Ohms on the points and distributor and it all check out fine.

So with all that in mind any enlightenment and help would be awesome because at this time i feel lost and hopeless on this tractor. thanks any questions about something not covered please feel free to email [email protected]

Use a jumper and go straight from the non grounded side of the battery to the top of the coil. Now see if you have spark. If you do the problem lies between the battery and the coil, if still no spark then the problem is in the distributor. Post back.

PS "I have replaced the voltage regulator" Voltage regulator has NOTHING to do with spark, and, in fact should not be on the tractor if you have a 12 volt alternator.

uh Dylan?........you start off as iff'n yer responding to a archived post that you found by doing a search. Doing searches can be a good thing but you are confusing the issue. Then you continue with "I bought this tractor from older man".

Then you continue with "tractor has had the conversion done". Who's tractor? Original poster? The old man? Then you continue with questions about power to the dizzy with multimeter. O.K. I understand multimeter, you are chasing VOLTAGE with the multi part and then you claim you check the points OHMS with the ohm part. Didja know when the points are CLOSED, you should have ZERO OHMS and when the points are OPEN, you will INFINITY OHMS. (infinity is that little lazy eight on its side) Ittza LAW, Kirchhoff's Law.

O.K........heres the deal, use the VOLTMETER part ONLY, firgitt about OHMS and follow the VOLTS. In an OPEN CIRCUIT, you should read BATTERY VOLTS everywhere. (ie...12V) until your points CLOSE where you will have a complete circuit. Then you will have voltage drops. Ittza LAW, Ohms Law. The voltage at the top of the squarecan coil should be about 1/2 battery volts.

Now then, the "infamous ballast resistor" is like an light bulb, it either works or it doesn't. Also it gitts HOT. (BURNIE-BURNIE!!!) Both the original 6-volt coil and the modern 12-volt squarecan coil require the same ballast resistor. NO ARGUE!!!

Some el-cheapo bubba conversions use the original 6-volt coil and a 12-to-6V conversion resistor. (which also gitts HOT) Resistors are cheaper than coils.

Didja know ittza 2-bolt, 15-min job to REMOVE the front mount dizzy and change and adjust the points (0.015") on the kitchen table??? Just un-snapple the capple, remove the bolts and walk. Installation is a reversal of the removal ...except... finger start the 2-bolts, then install the rotor. Now rotate the rotor so the OFFSET tang fits the OFFSET camshaft slot. Now tighten the 2-bolts and re-snapple yer capple. Simple, eh? The OFFSET drive scheme mean you can NOT install outta time.

Remember, after installing-adjusting the points (0.015") to "polish" the INVISIBLE CORROSION from between the points (0.015") Me? I clamp a clean $1-bill between points and pull. Iff'n yer cheap, tear a strip from HEAVY brown paper grocery sack and use that. ........HTH, Dell, yer self-appointed sparkie-meister who is a 12-volt advocate for the right reasons

After you have removed the dist. from front of engine, replace the coil and bell wire. Connect the hot wire to the top of the coil. Jump a ground wire from the dist. housing to the engine. Make sure you have a good ground. Turn the dist. shaft. Should get a spark across the points. If not you still have a problem but have the dist. in hand so you can work on it.

I'm experiencing the same problem with my 1949 8n. Was there ever a resolution to this thread?