Aluminum flashing "stove pipe" for painting rims

Royse

Well-known Member
I have tried a couple of times, with limited success, to describe
this idea on painting rims with the tires still on.

I got a chance to paint a set like that tonight, so I took some pictures.

Here's what I meant by "making a stove pipe out of flashing".
mvphoto10516.jpg


Here's what it looks like on the inside.
mvphoto10517.jpg


Here are the results. I took the flashing off while still wet and
didn't touch the tire or rim after spray painting.
mvphoto10518.jpg


Here you can see I got a little overspray on the tire and more
importantly that the outside of the rim lip is missed.
If you have dents in your rim from tire tools or rocks (and who
doesn't) expect more overspray.
mvphoto10519.jpg


There is a lot of blow back doing it this way even with HVLP.
If you have unprotected glasses or eyes, do not use a respirator,
or paint with exposed skin take that into consideration.
It works for me when I can't take the time to break them down
and do it right. It works on rears too, but overspray can get on
the opposite side of the tire from where you are painting.
 
Well, it works but I don't think I'd like using a spray gun inside that thing.

Might it not be easier to use painters masking stuff? You can get a roll of 6 inch masking with a pre taped edge on it. I think it comes in different sizes too.

Or you could use narrower flashing. Something like 6" stuff and cover the tire with paper. You'd get less blow back that way.

By the way, a company I worked for used to supply Home Depot with those rolls of flashing. We also sold them those galvanized ribbed roofing panels.
 
I'll have to try that.

Looks like your "stove pipe" is about 12 inches high. I think I would cut it down to 3 or 4 inches, then lay old rags, blankets, or towels around the tire.
 
AND with that collar your tires won't be able to lick their stitches when you get them "fixed" ;)
 
I did something similar to that only I used a thin plastic called Lexan. It is like flashing and nice and flexable. I just used a narrower strip and did half of the rim at a time.
a167347.jpg
 
"Might it not be easier to use painters masking stuff?"

I've tried it. Even though the flashing can be a pain to get in place,
it is no where near as big a pain as getting masking tape perfect.
I can put the flashing on in a quarter of the time or less.

"Or you could use narrower flashing... and cover the tire with paper"

I've done that too and that works quite well! Just tape the paper
to the outside of the flashing and go. This was just what I had
around for flashing today and was tall enough I didn't need paper.
I painted these with an HVLP gun with 15 psi @ the gun inlet.
 
I don't see any reason why Lexan or any other thin material wouldn't
work just as well. I'm leery of plastics due to static electricity.
That little shock you get when you grab the door knob will ignite
paint fumes. Not so much with oil based, but Lacquer, etc.
 
(quoted from post at 17:39:52 08/29/14) "Might it not be easier to use painters masking stuff?"

I've tried it. Even though the flashing can be a pain to get in place,
it is no where near as big a pain as getting masking tape perfect.
I can put the flashing on in a quarter of the time or less.

"Or you could use narrower flashing... and cover the tire with paper"

I've done that too and that works quite well! Just tape the paper
to the outside of the flashing and go. This was just what I had
around for flashing today and was tall enough I didn't need paper.
I painted these with an HVLP gun with 15 psi @ the gun inlet.

Maybe we should get Red Green working on this. :mrgreen:
 
(quoted from post at 20:45:57 08/29/14)
(quoted from post at 17:39:52 08/29/14) "Might it not be easier to use painters masking stuff?"

I've tried it. Even though the flashing can be a pain to get in place,
it is no where near as big a pain as getting masking tape perfect.
I can put the flashing on in a quarter of the time or less.

"Or you could use narrower flashing... and cover the tire with paper"

I've done that too and that works quite well! Just tape the paper
to the outside of the flashing and go. This was just what I had
around for flashing today and was tall enough I didn't need paper.
I painted these with an HVLP gun with 15 psi @ the gun inlet.

Maybe we should get Red Green working on this. :mrgreen:
He was here! See the duct tape! :lol:
 
Well, you have developed an entirely new system, NOT. If you are using 'Rattle Cans', and you take your time there is minimal overspray, easily cleaned up with lacquer thinner, AND if you take a few more moments to wipe the entire sidewall, the sucker is BLACK as the famous Ace of..... ;^)
 
(quoted from post at 20:49:08 08/29/14) Well, you have developed an entirely new system, NOT. If you are using 'Rattle Cans', and you take your time there is minimal overspray, easily cleaned up with lacquer thinner, AND if you take a few more moments to wipe the entire sidewall, the sucker is BLACK as the famous Ace of..... ;^)
I didn't say it was new Bob, I said I had tried to describe it.
I also think I mentioned twice that I use an HVLP paint gun, not
rattle cans. A rattle can paint job won't last a year around here
on exposed parts like the rims. I'm just sharing what I do. :)
 
Lots of ways to do it especially if you are painting
one to send down the road. But if its on a keeper
and I want to do it right, bust the tire down and
do the rim like it should be done, inside and out.
 
I have enough ford Grey left over to do my fronts and this is my plan, like yours.

I thought of using a piece of string to make a large compass, and cutting a circle the size of the rim out of a piece of thin cardboard. . . but your flashing idea digs deep right at the rim minimizing bleed.

I could make the circle just oversized enough to leave room for
1" masking tape up to the rim edge or make the hole actual rim size and use vaseline just near the rim edge.

When I gun-sprayed my 13" hat boxes (3 coats) it wasn't that difficult manipulating the gun -- fortunately for my limited skills that's a roomy rim.

But you can really bury the edges your way so I'm going with that.

Cheers,
T :)
 
(quoted from post at 21:42:30 08/29/14) Lots of ways to do it especially if you are painting
one to send down the road. But if its on a keeper
and I want to do it right, bust the tire down and
do the rim like it should be done, inside and out.
We're in agreement Jimmyjack, breaking it down is the right way to do it.
 
(quoted from post at 19:08:36 08/29/14)
(quoted from post at 21:42:30 08/29/14) Lots of ways to do it especially if you are painting
one to send down the road. But if its on a keeper
and I want to do it right, bust the tire down and
do the rim like it should be done, inside and out.
We're in agreement Jimmyjack, breaking it down is the right way to do it.

Sure and why not rebuild the engine while your at it?

Come on guys, some people are doing good just to find the time to paint their rims. Breaking down all four tires is not something one does on their lunch break.

You really want to take the wind out of a guys sails when he is feeling proud of getting his rims painted by telling him he didn't do it right?
 
I can remember when a lot younger , doing all that fine line painting free-hand without a glitch . Now I make a mess even while using masking tape . What happened to that talent I ask ? God bless, Ken
 
(quoted from post at 19:31:51 08/29/14) I can remember when a lot younger , doing all that fine line painting free-hand without a glitch . Now I make a mess even while using masking tape . What happened to that talent I ask ? God bless, Ken

That's just the way it works when you get older. You know you're probably going to screw it up, so you're not so disappointed when you do. :wink: Kind of self preservation.
 
I also did the 3m tape and newspaper...took me a few hours to do the fronts and rears...thank god my mil hoards news papers!! I haven't read all the comments but what about doing one go around with tape on the tire to protect from overspray and maybe sealing the other side somehow to protect it. I like the idea and may have to try it out sometime.
 
Oh no . . . ya laser-cut a perfect hole in some light sheet metal
measured to snap right over the rim or have it cut and a turnbuckle making it adjustable
and then you patent Lisa's rim painter :p
 
Lol! Hmmmm....maybe new business adventure?! Of
course if anyone wants to patent it....I'd need a
large lump sum Payment upfront and 50% stake in the
business....I realize one day I'll need to
retire..and lottery tickets aren't paying out
*shock*
 
What about breaking the bead so the tin sits down
further to cover the outer edge so it can get
coated? In any respect I think you did a good job
showing your method.
 
If you had tin that laid flat like TallT is talking about, breaking
the bead loose and pushing it down would sure help.
There is not much lip sticking up to catch the flashing on.
 

Another idea would be to have a flat metal sheet with the correct hole but cut the circle and sheet in half so that the two halves would slide together like scissors just under the lip.

One could rivet extensions on to where the two halves meet for overlap at the joints -- or else calculate for natural overlap when cutting.
 
good idea Royce.
Gotta admit, I get a little lazy with rims.
I paint the lug area, and the contrasting hub, let it dry,
put em on, hold my brush/spray hand motionless in the right spot, and spin the tire.
Little practice and nothing on the tire.
smaller tires, faster and faster with the spin, and moving my spray hand just a little and whole wheel done evenly.

We train ourselves spraying to keep the same distance from the work, and keep your hand moving.
Reverse works just as good....move the work.
 
Slick Brother.....seems like a fast way to get it done...and looks really nice ..be that as it may....I think cost over time over highest quality.....break em down...but what do I know!!
 

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