How to identify the model and serial # of a 2N, 9N or 8N

will-max dairy · Aug 27, 2014

I'm sure that I'll get some flak for this, but I just bought a little Ford. I have no clue what the model is.

It cost me $1000, had brand new tires all of the way around. It was clean, it started quickly (and still starts quickly from a cold start, at least in summer) and its three point hitch works.

The seller only asked $1000; because, it had a "knock". If anything, it might have a slightly loose wrist pin. The knock is barely perceptible.

I previously owned a 640, so I have a little experience with similar tractors. I figured that even an engine rebuild wouldn't be too bad for this old machine.

So, where do I look to find out what model it is and find the serial number?
A couple of particulars:
-It has three forward speeds and one reverse on the console shifting lever.
-It has a unique high/low transmission range feature activated by a large lever on the left side of the transmission, just below the battery case (in front of the left foot peg).

Thanks in advance.

Chris

MartyinVa · Aug 27, 2014

This should help.
John Smiths link

mbramble · Aug 27, 2014

Check this PAGE.

will-max dairy · Aug 27, 2014

OK. Thank you, gentlemen. Both of those links were handy. It looks as though I have a late 40's 2N. I'm going by the design of the radius arms. Definitely not an 8N.

I'll have to check the serial number later, when I get a chance.

Any hints on what to call the high/low transmission or where to get information on that?

R Geiger · Aug 27, 2014

(reply to post at 04:57:41 08/28/14)

t would be a Sherman gear box. John Smith's site will tell you everything you need to know about it and then some!

Lynn Patrick · Aug 27, 2014

The John Smith site listed above is hard to beat. Click the "Sherman transmission" button & read down until you see the lever you describe.
Njoy!
Lynn

will-max dairy · Aug 27, 2014

That's interesting. I had always heard of the "Sherman Transmission", but I had never really read about it.

Royse · Aug 27, 2014

John's website that the guys linked has all the details.
Including which auxiliary transmission you have.
There were several different Sherman transmissions for N's.

As a quick and dirty, the 3 forward speeds rules out the 8N; so
does having the clutch pedal and one brake pedal on the left side.
The 8N had a 4 speed and both brakes on the right like your 640.

At a glance, if the rear center hubs have a narrow 8 bolt pattern
like this first picture, it's not a 9N/2N. They had a wide 6 bolt pattern
like the second picture. Not much difference between the 9N and 2N
as far as usage goes. Again, John has the details.
Best of luck with the new tractor!

souNdguy · Aug 28, 2014

does it look like the head has been off?

have you decided if the knock is on a certain cyl. ie.. disconnect 1 plug at a time and go down the line and see if the knock goes away when you kill a cyl?

will-max dairy · Aug 28, 2014

(quoted from post at 15:28:01 08/28/14) does it look like the head has been off?

have you decided if the knock is on a certain cyl. ie.. disconnect 1 plug at a time and go down the line and see if the knock goes away when you kill a cyl?

To tell the truth, I really can't hear a "knock". I hear maybe a faint ticking or slapping sound reminiscent of either a valve issue or maybe a loose wrist pin. I'll try your trick when I get the chance. It might be tough; because, it's almost non-existent in the first place.

souNdguy · Aug 28, 2014

ticking could certaintly be valve noise. my 8n sounded like a sewing machine.. and had no problems on the low end etc.

will-max dairy · Aug 28, 2014

I figured that you guys would appreciate a picture. My wife is just finishing saying "I'll kill you." or something affectionate like that in regard to me flashing the picture.

Despite that, she loves the tractor. She misses the old 640. The old Fords are the only tractors that she feels safe on. They are simple to operate, low to the ground and comfortable in the operator's station.

will-max dairy · Aug 28, 2014

Had to put it in the galleries here:

https://photos.yesterdaystractors.com/cgi-bin/gallery/gallery_pic.cgi?pic=http;//photos.yesterdaystractors.com/gallery/tphotos/c143349.jpg&firstrec=36837&Parameter=&w=tphotos&cc=0&s=

1951 8N · Aug 28, 2014

Had to put it in the galleries here:

https://photos.yesterdaystractors.com/cgi-bin/gallery/gallery_pic.cgi?pic=http;//photos.yesterdaystractors.com/gallery/tphotos/c143349.jpg&firstrec=36837&Parameter=&w=tphotos&cc=0&s=

Here's your picture for you:

KBAUMAN · Aug 31, 2014

Great little tractor for less than the cost of a rebuild on a lawn tractor these days.

It looks like a real worker. I would say it is an 2N not too late. The air cleaner, riveted axles and tube style arms are 2n like. I doubt Henry painted it red. Probably born grey.

I see a problem with it. The arm by wifeys left toe connecting to the front axle has a radius. It should be straight, unless something is wrong. I am thinking king pin in the center of the front axle. You may want to look at that or not. If it was me I would not stop using it, but understand the problem and make a decision on if/when to plan the repair.

I hate to post too much here because there are true experts that will pour thru it for errors, I only know what I know from owning since the 60"s

will-max dairy · Sep 2, 2014

(quoted from post at 15:21:53 08/31/14) Great little tractor for less than the cost of a rebuild on a lawn tractor these days.

It looks like a real worker. I would say it is an 2N not too late. The air cleaner, riveted axles and tube style arms are 2n like. I doubt Henry painted it red. Probably born grey.

I see a problem with it. The arm by wifeys left toe connecting to the front axle has a radius. It should be straight, unless something is wrong. I am thinking king pin in the center of the front axle. You may want to look at that or not. If it was me I would not stop using it, but understand the problem and make a decision on if/when to plan the repair.

I hate to post too much here because there are true experts that will pour thru it for errors, I only know what I know from owning since the 60"s

1951 8N: Thanks for reposting the picture here.

kbauman: That is a really great observation about the radius arm! When I go home, I'm going to see if both of them have that.

I wonder if someone retrofitted arms from a different model that were longer and perhaps bent them with a torch to fit?

Either that, or maybe some serious impact?

Now I'm curious. It doesn't seem to bother the tractor one bit. I've been pulling our old ground driven spreader with it just fine. I'm amazed at how quickly it starts.

We're moving to a new farm soon with a nice, large, heated garage attached to the house. I'm looking forward to maintaining/fixing this old workhorse and plan on keeping it for many, many years.

How to identify the model and serial # of a 2N, 9N or 8N

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