Polarizing jenny

bsousa

New User
I have the round can cutout. i must be jus plan dumb.... when they say arc the two terminals it means connect the batt terminal and the one unlabeled on the cutout for a sec or two? I've read 10 other posts and its just not obvious to me. It's interesting with the stealth fun projects cutout replacement it specifically say do not arc across the terminals or you will damage the electronic cutout. thanks JB

p.s its a single terminal generator also.
 
JB........umm, what part of "do NOT arc across the terminals" don't you understand??? You will let the smoke outta them magical electronic boxes.

The normal 6-volt genny is polarized by "arc-sparking" the BIG BATT end terminal to the itty-bitty field terminal on the side of the barrel. Engine OFF.

While the 6-volt 8N came from the factory "positive-ground", the genny can also be polarized for "negative-ground". It all depends on how the 6-volt battery is installed.

There are some obscure advantages for positive ground with respect to yer sparkies. Unfortunately, with so many 12-volt conversions with alternators, many shade-tree mechanics don't pay attention to polarity and install ALL batterys negative ground.........Dell, yer self-appointed sparkie-meister and shade-tree mechanic
 
(quoted from post at 01:07:31 08/22/14) I have the round can cutout. i must be jus plan dumb.... when they say arc the two terminals it means connect the batt terminal and the one unlabeled on the cutout for a sec or two? I've read 10 other posts and its just not obvious to me. It's interesting with the stealth fun projects cutout replacement it specifically say do not arc across the terminals or you will damage the electronic cutout. thanks JB

p.s its a single terminal generator also.
sousa, with your round can cut out, you don't have a little field terminal on your N generator to jump BATT to & if you did, you would blow the field contacts out of the VR, since those connect the gen field terminal to ground. Plus, if by some chance the polarization by that incorrect approach did take, your generator would be polarized backwards. If using FunProjects unit, follow their directions & no other. Just FYI, with conventional cut out system, all you are doing when polarizing is applying battery power to the gen output terminal & inside the gen, the output terminal is connected to armature brush & the 3rd armature brush is connected to the field, whose other end is ground, thus you are indirectly connecting batt to the un-grounded end of the fields & magnetizing the field pole pieces. No magic.
 
ok, I believe I have it. I do have a positive ground battery. What had happened was the switch had been left on and the battery completely drained. It was the napa 6 volt. I went to try and recharge the battery , without disconnecting it I may say and thinking on that that was a no no , and all it did was draw lots of current with no apparent result. I figured at that point I need a new battery. While I was away my neighbor went and bought a new battery for me, red 6 volt optima, not my choice but will be a very good performing battery, just looks odd and everything on my tractor is stock. It worked but it does appear now that the battery is not charging so he disconnected it and was thinking it was drawing current when he shut it off do to a spark when disconnecting the battery. It did run well he said so I didn't fry the distributor points I'm assuming. After researching I'm assuming what happened was along with keeping my key on, my shut out was closed and drawing the battery. I'm thinking by running an ohm meters across the two terminals on the round can I should be able to verify that. But, when I rebook up the battery I don't see the spark my neighbor observed so thinking maybe the cut out is ok and my charging issue is due to the generator not being polarized correctly.

so what i take out of this is to polarize the generator by taking my ungrounded lead on the battery, momentarily touching it to the large , one post, on the generator using a small jumper cable, basically energizing the field inside the generator and that should do it.

if that doesn't work I start working backwards. Now I was getting about 10 amps out of the generator before so assume its adjusted correctly but that would be part of the diagnosis process.

first step would be to basically bench test the round cap. Another stupid question. The previous owner completely sprayed the round cap to match the grayish color of the tractor. How does one remove the cap to see the inners of the round cap. Maybe thats apparent when I take it out but I haven't seen that address anywhere. I'd love to open it up and see how the whole point thing-a-bob works , electro/mechanically.

another basic test is to see if the gen turns as a motor? I believe all I do is remove the belt, apply voltage to the large terminal and viola... magic smoke makes it spin.

Thanks all... I love my tractor and this is a great forum.

JB

p.s. i don't believe I have an electronic cutout...although as I see the stealth one can't be distinguished from the original appearance wise... and they do not say how to polarize the generator, they just say don't jump across the two round can terminals. The guy i bought it from used this tractor as a parade tractor with and extra seat for his wife on the three point. He polished it everyday and tried to keep it original although he painted it an off color, a greenish grey ?? I assume he wanted to keep everything original and advised not to go to the 12 volt conversion.

Morning everyone.
 
" first step would be to basically bench test the round cap. "

Actually, no.

Your first step should be to get yourself a set of manuals & familiarize yourself w/ the basics of the tractor. (see tip # 39)

At some point, calling parts by made up names ceases to be silly & will get something broken.

I'll assume you're talking about the distributor cap, as in the picture, correct?

If the tractor started & ran after you left the key on, chances are very good that the coil & points are ok. (see tip # 38)

But, if you want to check the points.........

The front distributor was designed to come off of the tractor to replace/adjust the points. Remove the wire on the coil, remove the coil bail, remove the distributor cap & take the two bolts off. The base of the distributor has an offset tang & can only go back one way unless you really force it on. Look at how the points & condenser set in the distributor before you start pulling it down! Turn the tang & observe how the points open & close. If this is your first time doing it, draw a sketch!. Make sure you are using quality parts; the points should have a phenolic rubbing block & not the cheap white plastic crap. Use only Wells, Blue Streak or Echlin brand points. (* see below) Be careful not to ground the tip of the condenser wire to the body of the distributor when you replace the points. Do not break the little copper strip that goes to the points. (If you do, make another out of the old set of points) Also, make sure the condenser wire does not go through the same opening in the distributor that the coil pig tail does. The condenser wire goes the opening on the top right. Look at the old points; are they burned, pitted or mis-aligned? Check the point gap, .015 on all four lobes. Make sure the blade is at a perfect right angle to the points & you want to feel just the slightest bit of drag when you pull the blade through the points. Set the points on the highside of the cam. Make sure you have the star washers under the screws on the points. Dress the points by running a piece of card stock or brown paper bag through them. New points sometimes have an anti-corrosive dielectric coating on them & old points can corrode or pick up grease from a dirty feeler gauge or excessive cam lubricant. And, don’t forget to lube the rubbing block w/ cam lube; not Vaseline, not bearing grease, but cam lube. (** see below)

Now, set the timing. Get a meter or test light, a 21/64” drill bit (*** see below) & a metal straight edge. Put the distributor face down w/ the condenser on the left & the timing plate lock screw on the bottom. Look at the end of the shaft: it has a narrow side & a wide side. Make sure you can tell the difference. Now, place the drill bit in the bottom mounting hole. (this will be your reference point for measuring) . Next, place a straight edge on the wide side of the tang on shaft as shown in fig. FO83 in the I&T FO4 manual. Rotate the shaft CCW (as viewed from rotor side OR CW as viewed from back/tang side) until the straight edge is ¼" beyond the outside edge of the drill bit you stuck in the distributor mounting hole. At this distance, the distributor points should start to open. (get your meter/light out now & check) If not, loosen the timing plate lock screw and turn to advance or retard the timing. (move the plate down to advance timing, up to retard) Remember, each one of those little hash marks represents about 4* of timing. Keep adjusting until you get the proper ¼" setting. (if the plate won’t move, you might need to remove the big C clip to loosen it a bit) As you’re adjusting, eliminate backlash by turning the shaft backwards (CW as viewed from the front) and bring the shaft forwards (CCW as viewed from the front) to measure your setting. This ¼" setting will get you static timing at top dead center.

After you set the points & timing, do a continuity check before you put the distributor back on the tractor.

Before you start, make sure your meter/light works (don't ask....)

With the distributor still off the tractor, follow these steps:

1. Coil off, cap off, points open. One probe on the brass screw & the other on both sides of the open points. On the side closest to the cam, you should have continuity. Not on the other side! If you do, you will also have continuity everywhere because the points are grounded.

2. Coil off, cap off, points open. One probe on the brass screw & the other anywhere on the body of the distributor. You should have no continuity! Now, rotate the tang on the distributor....as the points open & close, you have continuity (closed) and lose it when they open.

3. Put the coil on the distributor, cap off, points open. One probe on the lead on the top of the coil, the other on the cam side of the open points. You should have continuity!

4. Coil on, cap off, points open. One probe on the lead on the top of the coil, the other anywhere on the body of the distributor. You should have no continuity!

At this point, I just put the distributor, coil & cap all back on the tractor as a unit. The reason I do this is because it is real easy to get the cap or coil mis-aligned trying to put it back together one piece at a time & the result is something gets broken or you get a ‘no spark’ problem.

It's possible to put it back on wrong & break it. Look at the slot on the end of the cam shaft. What ever angle it happens to be, turn the distributor tang to match it. Make sure you can tell the wide side from the narrow side on both the cam & distributor! (close counts) Then place the distributor on the front of the engine, gently push it in place & slowly turn the distributor body until you feel the tang slip into the slot. Rotate the distributor body until the bolt holes line up. Then, hand tighten the two bolts until the distributor body is flush w/ the timing gear cover.

Post back w/ results & any other questions.

* NAPA part numbers:

• Points: FD-6769X
• Condenser: FD-71
• Rotor: FD-104
• Cap: FD-126

** Distributor cam lube: http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/Result.aspx?Ntt=ECH+ML1&Ntk=Keyword&Nty=1&Dn=0&D=ECH+ML1&Dk=1&Dp=3&N=0

** Distributor cam lube: http://www.carquest.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/subcategory__10151_-1_10651_11340

*** Rather than the drill bit, a jig made by Dan Allen (The Old Hokie) will make this task quicker & more accurate. http://mysite.verizon.net/oldhokie/windyridge/id11.html
DSC03473.jpg

timing003.jpg

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My apologies... I'm just a simple weekend tinker that when typing early morning makes spelling mistakes.

round cap = round can cut out (I'm using descriptions referred to inside this forum and they may or may not be accurate and obviously said cap vs. can) and the contacts I was referring to were the contacts that are inside the round can cut out. I'm assuming the battery drained because those contacts were close, welded, fused, whatever and drained the battery but it's not obvious they are still in that state and wanted to test distinctly that particular component of the circuit.

Again I apologize for for my obvious stupid editorial and insulting your intelligence.

regards,
JB
 
" and insulting your intelligence. "

No, that's not the case at all.

The point is......and you made it very well.....is that you were calling the cut-out a round CAP (a typo) and I thought you were talking about the distributor cap.

" I'm just a simple weekend tinker"

W/ one exception that I know of.....we all are. These tractors are hobbies for most of the regulars around here.

So......

Yes, start by checking the cut-out.
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(quoted from post at 06:28:27 08/23/14) Unless you've got an aftermarket unit I'm not familiar with, it's a sealed unit.

Post a picture; maybe it can be taken apart.
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orning, Bruce, et al. I have over 70. Years of experience/curiosity and have yet to find anything that I have been unable to take apart/open up. I isn't always pretty, but I will see what is inside!!
 
It may not be necessary. I believe I am confused by other posts on this subject where folks are talking about bending the points, filing them , etc , all in reference to the cut out I thought. I know I can electrically test it by apply voltage on the jenny side where it should close and and open at particular voltages. I'll read up on the specific order of tests. One interesting note and character of these these forums is there is conflicting and incorrect information sometimes conveyed and a newbee like myself has to sift through that collaborating the correct reply by several sources. That's also the beauty of these forums as there us sometimes more than one solution which is neat. Long winded. Guess three cups of coffee make me prolific with my verbose rambles :)
 
(quoted from post at 23:07:38 08/23/14) It may not be necessary. I believe I am confused by other posts on this subject where folks are talking about bending the points, filing them , etc , all in reference to the cut out I thought. I know I can electrically test it by apply voltage on the jenny side where it should close and and open at particular voltages. I'll read up on the specific order of tests. One interesting note and character of these these forums is there is conflicting and incorrect information sometimes conveyed and a newbee like myself has to sift through that collaborating the correct reply by several sources. That's also the beauty of these forums as there us sometimes more than one solution which is neat. Long winded. Guess three cups of coffee make me prolific with my verbose rambles :)

The beauty of these forums is the ability to post photos, then regardless of the terms you use we know what you are talking about. You should have a round can type cutout relay, but there is also a cutout relay in the voltage regulator found on later machines. They both serve the same function. On a voltage regulator it is easy to get to the points and clean them or mess with the spring tension.

In your case, I would test it to see if it is working or not before trying to take it apart. If it is not working I would just replace it. Taking it apart is most likely a one way trip. I just had to see what was inside of a SD card yesterday, of course it never went back together.

I always figure if someone put it together, I can take it apart!
 
The beauty of these forums is the ability to post photos, then regardless of the terms you use we know what you are talking about. You should have a round can type cutout relay, but there is also a cutout relay in the voltage regulator found on later machines. They both serve the same function. On a voltage regulator it is easy to get to the points and clean them or mess with the spring tension.

In your case, I would test it to see if it is working or not before trying to take it apart. If it is not working I would just replace it. Taking it apart is most likely a one way trip. I just had to see what was inside of a SD card yesterday, of course it never went back together.

I always figure if someone put it together, I can take it apart![/quote]

I do have the two terminal round can one labeled one not . I was originally confused how to polarize my jenny with my round top not looking like the VR I expected. Turns out I just jump the bat non grounded terminal (-) to the single post on the generator. I'll do that first , then test the round top , then replace as necessary. My issue was drained battery , now it's not charging. Both those symptoms pointed to the cutout. Conflicting is the amp meter doesn't show any current draw when I connect the battery. Heading out in garage in a bit to verify some things. Thanks. JB
 
ok... I'm back in the garage. 6.3 volts. Positive ground on the battery. Started her up no difference. 6.3 volts. No indication on the amp meter. shut her off. jumped between the neg battery terminal and the big wire on the jenny. small spark. started her up, no difference on the amp meter or voltage on the battery. run a jumper wire between the two terminals on my round top cut out. start her up. I'm now having negative 10 amps on the ammeter. I thought polarizing the gen was to fix that.? will picture help in any way?
 
" where folks are talking about bending the points, filing them , etc , all in reference to the cut out I thought."

Nope.

95% of those posts are talking about ignition points. As in the distributor. And that's what I thought you were talking about & that's the reason I gave you all that info on the topic.

Some folks will try to adjust the points in a v/r....but few are successful at it!

" and character of these these forums is there is conflicting and incorrect information sometimes conveyed and a newbee like myself has to sift through that collaborating the correct reply by several sources. "

I'm not sure on which forum you are finding incorrect info. You will find some opinions on this board, but any incorrect info posted is going to be corrected by 20 other posters!

This board has a far number of regulars who, excepting a fat-finger mistake or a momentary brain phart, are going to answer questions correctly 99% of the time.
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(quoted from post at 02:40:11 08/24/14) ok... I'm back in the garage. 6.3 volts. Positive ground on the battery. Started her up no difference. 6.3 volts. No indication on the amp meter. shut her off. jumped between the neg battery terminal and the big wire on the jenny. small spark. started her up, no difference on the amp meter or voltage on the battery. run a jumper wire between the two terminals on my round top cut out. start her up. I'm now having negative 10 amps on the ammeter. I thought polarizing the gen was to fix that.? will picture help in any way?

What battery voltage is showing when running with the cutout jumped? Should be whatever the generator is putting out. I don't understand the negative 10 amps!

I have a JD crawler that when the cutout went bad, instead of spending 100 bucks for a new cutout (20 years ago) i installed a switch to replace it. works good except If i don't turn it off it will drain the battery?
 
6v, right?

" negative voltage on the ammeter. ?"

When?

Key off?

Engine running at idle?

Engine running at 1/2 throttle or more?

Engine running for more than 30 minutes?
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6 volt, correct.

+ side of ammeter hooked to center tap of resistor

engine speed has no effect on battery voltage or ammeter.


if i jumper the cutout , engine off i see a 20 amp draw, key on or off.

if I turn on the engine and jumper the cutout i see a 10 amp draw

jumper means for me short out the two connectors across the cutout.
 
What are you using to measure current draw? The ammeter on the tractor? Or a hand-held meter? If it's hand-held, analog or digital?

Google " wiring diagrams JMOR"

Find the one that fits your tractor.

The ammeter wire should go from the battery side of your starter switch (NOT the ignition switch) to the ammeter, then to the center stud on the resistor block. Does it?
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6 volt, correct.
+ side of ammeter hooked to center tap of resistor

engine speed has no effect on battery voltage or ammeter.

if i jumper the cutout , engine off i see a 20 amp draw, key on or off.

if I turn on the engine and jumper the cutout i see a 10 amp draw

jumper means for me short out the two connectors across the cutout.
This post was edited by bsousa at 11:27:52 08/23/14 2 times.
a166803.jpg
 
Did you miss my last post?

Here it is:

What are you using to measure current draw? The ammeter on the tractor? Or a hand-held meter? If it's hand-held, analog or digital?

Google " wiring diagrams JMOR"

Find the one that fits your tractor.

The ammeter wire should go from the battery side of your starter switch (NOT the ignition switch) to the ammeter, then to the center stud on the resistor block. Does it?
 
i did miss it. I'm using the ammeter on the tractor, analog.

I've reviewed the wiring diagrams looks all correct to me.

ammeter negative pole goes to solenoid. + pole goes to center stud on resistor.
 
good catch. It's a starting switch. Not a solenoid. Taking a picture of that now with the round cap.

one additional observation. The ammeter has - & + labels but none of the diagrams show if that matters what is hooked up to what. I'm thinking it does. I'm a mechanical guy sorry.
 
" The ammeter has - & + labels but none of the diagrams show if that matters what is hooked up to what. I'm thinking it does."

It sure does matter what's hooked to what.

That's why I told you what wire goes where & to check JMOR's wiring diagram to confirm it.

Did you do that?

Not some other diagram....but JMOR's.

Wanna guess what happens if you wire it backwards?

It reads backwards.

Is your tractor positive or negative ground?

Does it run?
 
(quoted from post at 17:11:32 08/23/14) " The ammeter has - & + labels but none of the diagrams show if that matters what is hooked up to what. I'm thinking it does."

It sure does matter what's hooked to what.

That's why I told you what wire goes where & to check JMOR's wiring diagram to confirm it.

Did you do that?

Not some other diagram....but JMOR's.

Wanna guess what happens if you wire it backwards?

It reads backwards.

Is your tractor positive or negative ground?

Does it run?

double confirming but its + to the center tap of the resistor.
tractor is positive ground.
it runs quite well, just doesn't charge. Voltage on battery shows no change at any rpm. ammeter shows nothing running or not. if i jumper the round top cut out ammeter shows negative amps being drawn (running: -10amps, not running: -20 amps)
 
(quoted from post at 05:21:17 08/24/14)
(quoted from post at 17:11:32 08/23/14) " The ammeter has - & + labels but none of the diagrams show if that matters what is hooked up to what. I'm thinking it does."

It sure does matter what's hooked to what.

That's why I told you what wire goes where & to check JMOR's wiring diagram to confirm it.

Did you do that?

Not some other diagram....but JMOR's.

Wanna guess what happens if you wire it backwards?

It reads backwards.

Is your tractor positive or negative ground?

Does it run?

double confirming but its + to the center tap of the resistor.
tractor is positive ground.
it runs quite well, just doesn't charge. Voltage on battery shows no change at any rpm. ammeter shows nothing running or not. if i jumper the round top cut out ammeter shows negative amps being drawn (running: -10amps, not running: -20 amps)

If you are not seeing an increase in VOLTAGE at the battery with the cutout jumped, when the engine is running, then the generator is not putting out. if the ammeter is installed correctly. then you are seeing a discharge of the battery back thru the generator.
You may be ahead of the game pulling the generator and taking it to a shop and have it checked, or do the motoring tests talked about in the Fo-4 service manual. There is agood section on the electrical systems in the manual.
 
You answered: " double confirming but its + to the center tap of the resistor."

I asked: " The ammeter wire should go from the battery side of your starter switch (NOT the ignition switch) to the ammeter, then to the center stud on the resistor block. Does it? "

We've confirmed that one end of the wire is connected correctly to the center post on the resistor block.

What about the other end of the wire?

If the ammeter is wired correctly & it's a positive ground tractor.........as R Geiger said....if you jump the cut-out & do not see any increase in voltage at the battery, it's time to take the generator in for a test. Or, try the motor test yourself.
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(quoted from post at 18:47:57 08/23/14) You answered: " double confirming but its + to the center tap of the resistor."

I asked: " The ammeter wire should go from the battery side of your starter switch (NOT the ignition switch) to the ammeter, then to the center stud on the resistor block. Does it? "

We've confirmed that one end of the wire is connected correctly to the center post on the resistor block.

What about the other end of the wire?

If the ammeter is wired correctly & it's a positive ground tractor.........as R Geiger said....if you jump the cut-out & do not see any increase in voltage at the battery, it's time to take the generator in for a test. Or, try the motor test yourself.
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Other end goes to starter switch. I'm searching how to do the motor test on the single terminal generator. Looks like apply voltage to the single terminal and ground the case. Just conforming before I blow the generator. I do see half a volt when it's running between the single generator terminal and ground
If that is a clue.
 
(quoted from post at 19:55:54 08/23/14)
(quoted from post at 18:47:57 08/23/14) You answered: " double confirming but its + to the center tap of the resistor."

I asked: " The ammeter wire should go from the battery side of your starter switch (NOT the ignition switch) to the ammeter, then to the center stud on the resistor block. Does it? "

We've confirmed that one end of the wire is connected correctly to the center post on the resistor block.

What about the other end of the wire?

If the ammeter is wired correctly & it's a positive ground tractor.........as R Geiger said....if you jump the cut-out & do not see any increase in voltage at the battery, it's time to take the generator in for a test. Or, try the motor test yourself.
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Other end goes to starter switch. I'm searching how to do the motor test on the single terminal generator. Looks like apply voltage to the single terminal and ground the case. Just conforming before I blow the generator. I do see half a volt when it's running between the single generator terminal and ground
If that is a clue.

OK , I've ordered my FO-4 manual but it will be days before it comes. I can't find anywhere how to motor test a single terminal generator. It appears to be a three brush generator. As shown, one wire attached.
mvphoto10368.jpg
 
(quoted from post at 11:18:32 08/24/14)
(quoted from post at 19:55:54 08/23/14)
(quoted from post at 18:47:57 08/23/14) You answered: " double confirming but its + to the center tap of the resistor."

I asked: " The ammeter wire should go from the battery side of your starter switch (NOT the ignition switch) to the ammeter, then to the center stud on the resistor block. Does it? "

We've confirmed that one end of the wire is connected correctly to the center post on the resistor block.

What about the other end of the wire?

If the ammeter is wired correctly & it's a positive ground tractor.........as R Geiger said....if you jump the cut-out & do not see any increase in voltage at the battery, it's time to take the generator in for a test. Or, try the motor test yourself.
Untitled URL Link

Other end goes to starter switch. I'm searching how to do the motor test on the single terminal generator. Looks like apply voltage to the single terminal and ground the case. Just conforming before I blow the generator. I do see half a volt when it's running between the single generator terminal and ground
If that is a clue.

OK , I've ordered my FO-4 manual but it will be days before it comes. I can't find anywhere how to motor test a single terminal generator. It appears to be a three brush generator. As shown, one wire attached.
mvphoto10368.jpg

You have the right idea, the book shows wiring in a ohm meter in series with the wire going to the single terminal, it is used as part of the troubleshooting process, but you can tell if it will motor or not without it.
 

well we will see where it goes tomorrow....but I just discovered a few minutes ago....the heavens are looking down on me... there is an antique tractor show tomorrow!! right next door. What fun... and thanks for the help. I'm sure the folks at the show after my thousand questions will run and hide.


2014 Yesteryear Farm Show
Friday August 22 – Sunday August 24
9 a.m. to 8:30 p.m.

The Yesteryear Farm Show features working exhibits of antique tractors and farm machinery, steam engines, stationary engines, threshing and baling equipment, etc. The event and parking is free!
 

just found this from a very old posting

"I assume it is a charging problem, and since you didn't specify 9/2N or 8N (the 8 uses a 3 lead generator with voltage regulator), I will assume the single lead 6 volt, which is the one that was a bugger for me.
Place the ground lead of the multi meter (generally the pos for 6 volt systems) and with the engine running, place the neg lead on the generator output, having your multimeter set in the 0-10 volt range.

While running you should see 7+ volts. If that is good, do the same thing on both sides of the cutout relay. Then go onto the battery and test the voltage across the terminals. While running you should be getting just above 7 volts. While not running, the bat should have 6.2 volts."

well if this is true when I measure between the one terminal and ground I only see about 1/2 a volt. Not good. Looks like I may be buying a new generator. :(
 
" Looks like I may be buying a new generator"

You would be better off having your generator rebuilt. It might just need brushes.

Find a local rebuild shop.

If you don't have one close by, these guys do mail order work:

Automotive Manufacturers Inc
2400 N Lombardy St Richmond, VA 23220
(804) 321-6861


Call them for a quote & shipping info.

And they also rebuild clutches, pressure plates, water pumps, alternators, carbs, starters & reline brakes.
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