Why would draft control spring yoke pin be frozen?

I'm in the process of taking the top plate off to rebuild the cylinder. Of course one of the "easy" steps of disconnecting the draft control spring from the yoke has me stopped. I started driving out the larger pin that connects the yoke to the housing and its barely moving using a 3/4" extension as a punch and a ball peen. I then tried the top pin, which is in there even worse. I soaked both in PB Blaster last night and will try again tonight, but thought I'd solicit advice. The top of the yoke looks peened pretty good from the previous top link, but still it doesn't seem like it should be that difficult to drift either of these out. Am I missing something? Or is this simply a case of getting a bigger hammer and proceeding?
 
(quoted from post at 10:30:45 08/20/14) I'm in the process of taking the top plate off to rebuild the cylinder. Of course one of the "easy" steps of disconnecting the draft control spring from the yoke has me stopped. I started driving out the larger pin that connects the yoke to the housing and its barely moving using a 3/4" extension as a punch and a ball peen. I then tried the top pin, which is in there even worse. I soaked both in PB Blaster last night and will try again tonight, but thought I'd solicit advice. The top of the yoke looks peened pretty good from the previous top link, but still it doesn't seem like it should be that difficult to drift either of these out. Am I missing something? Or is this simply a case of getting a bigger hammer and proceeding?
f speaking of the hollow "pin" connecting top link rocker to tractor rear end housing......forget that bad boy! Just work on draft spring yoke to top link rocker.
 
(quoted from post at 23:30:45 08/20/14) I'm in the process of taking the top plate off to rebuild the cylinder. Of course one of the "easy" steps of disconnecting the draft control spring from the yoke has me stopped. I started driving out the larger pin that connects the yoke to the housing and its barely moving using a 3/4" extension as a punch and a ball peen. I then tried the top pin, which is in there even worse. I soaked both in PB Blaster last night and will try again tonight, but thought I'd solicit advice. The top of the yoke looks peened pretty good from the previous top link, but still it doesn't seem like it should be that difficult to drift either of these out. Am I missing something? Or is this simply a case of getting a bigger hammer and proceeding?
Sitting out in the weather they get frozen solid! It is going to take days of PB blaster to help any. Time is on your side!
 
Thanks guys. It didn't look like it should be as frozen as it is, but I'll just proceed with PB Blaster and a bigger hammer. Wanted to make sure I wasn't forcing something that I shouldn't.
 
Can yoy turn the pins? wear could make it so there is a nothc hitting and the bigger hamer could bust things, get them to turn before trying to drive out.
 
In a post by TOM N MS:

"A study done by Machinist"s Workshop magazine in their April 2007 issue looked at different penetrating oils to see which one did the best job of removing a rusted bolt by measuring the pounds of torque required to loosen the bolt once treated. If the study was scientifically accurate, it turns out a home brew works best!
Here"s the summary of the test results:
Penetrating oil ..... Average load

None ...................... 516 pounds
WD-40 ................... 238 pounds
PB Blaster .............. 214 pounds
Liquid Wrench ...... 127 pounds
Kano Kroil ............. 106 pounds
ATF-Acetone mix....53 pounds"


Foster
 
I prefer to use a flat end pin, for driving out a frozen pin, as continual pounding with a 3/4 extension (which is normally rounded on the on the male end). can cause the frozen pin to "swell", making it even harder to drive out.
Pounding a little one way, and then the other way, and trying to file off the swelled end would also reduce tension.
Heat may be your last option.
Charles Krammin SW MI
 

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