changing relief valve

pulling hydraulic top to overhaul lift piston and relief valve don't want to pull or drop pump, can I replace the relief valve from top without dropping pump? also the pin that wears and affects lift position can that be changed without pulling the pump? any special tools needed for these jobs also if lift cylinder needs to be honed what size? can you rent? cost? lots of questions, thsnks in advance
 
Both cam follower pin and relief valve can be replaced without removing pump.

Relief valve can be replaced without removing top cover.

Dean
 
9N or 2N or *n things are bit different in them. Yes the relief valve can be changed with out dropping the pump and if drained of oil makes it easier also. As for renting a hone not sure I spent the $15-20 for one and have used it many times but then I do rebuild engines etc
 
only hone I ever used had stones and spring loaded to different sizes , a certain size? are they adjustable or one size fits all, I have a auto zone near it is a early 48 8n by the way
 
Go to harbor freight if you have one. They have a "brake cylinder hone" for well under $10. It has the 3 stones that are spring loaded like you were talking about. Also, you will need a really short wrench for replacing the relief valve. I can't remember the exact size, just check the new one before you get started. I used a cut off wheel and cut an old wrench in half.
 
I'm also undertaking rebuilding my hydraulics and ordered the parts I believe I'll need. However, I didn't get a "cam follower pin" and don't see one listed on this site's parts. Is it something I should assume should be replaced and I should get? Is it called something else? Thanks.
 
You didn't specify what model tractor you have but 9N thru 8N relief valve is an easy fix without dropping the pump. You will need an 11/16 open end wrench, cut off to a stubby length, about 4-6 inches, so you can swing it and clear the inner wall of housing. So, take an old wrench with no sentimental value and cut it off with a rubber wheel and have at it. I'd also caution about honing the cylinder out. First, why do you think you have to hone it? Do you have a leak down issue? If the cylinder walls are grooved out, no honing is going to help. Get a new cylinder. While at it, replace the piston with the NAA type that uses a rubber 'O'-Ring and leather back-up washer. This was a better setup than the previous three-ring piston design. Do you have lift issues? Did you do the simple test to see if your cylinder leaks before replacing parts? Put a load on 3-pt then raise to top of stroke, leave it there, then shut down engine. Flashlight in hand, side inspection covers removed, look up into guts at the cylinder and watch to see if there is any oil leaking down. If so, you have to pull cylinder and inspect for gouged walls and if none visible, replace with new piston as stated above.

Tim 'PloughNman' Daley(MI)
 
Stubby wrench is great--I don"t own one--wouldn"t give you a plug nickle for the bent wrench--I"ve changed several with regular length 11/16" wrench--yes. I still say remove left side cover and the pto shaft.Removing right side cover not really a "have to" thing..
 

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