just curious. are there any special tools I need to change out the distributor ? I read the manual and it seamed fairly simple. I also watch you tube video of some girl replacing one on a Jubilee.I will have a little extra money this month but because of kids school it will be tight. i was gonna try and buy a few things i need...LOL
 
What do you mean by "change out"?

Pulling one out & putting a new one in doesn't require any special tools. A timing light would be nice, but not essential; you can set static timing & dynamic will be fine on a new one.
75 Tips
 
Are you changing one on a Jubilee or another tractor?
No special tools required either way, but if it is a front mount,
The Old Hokie's timing tool does help set the timing. Website
 
Side mount dizzy? Mine is a 9/16 bolt locking it down. bolt out, distributor out......new distributor in, bolt in. Easy easy job if you get the timing right.
 

Yes Bruce..Pulling out old one and putting in new one..
Royse. its a side mount 8n.
Time 23 . thanks. Ive never done it so im hopping it goes smooth. Thanks all
 
Remove the #1 spark plug. (removing all of them makes the job a bit easier) Ignition off, place your thumb over the #1 spark plug hole and crank slowly until compression is felt. Continue to crank the engine until you see the timing mark, 0* (top dead center) on the flywheel through the timing hole in the right side of the bell housing. Use chalk on the flywheel to exactly align the 4 degree mark with the pointer.

LOOK at where the rotor is pointer on the old distributor,

Remove the lock nut & remove the distributor.

Hold the new distributor beside the engine. W/ the distributor oiler at the 7 o’clock position & the stud at 9 o’clock, turn the rotor until it points roughly at the same place the old rotor pointed. (close counts) Now insert the distributor. Rotate the distributor housing counter clockwise until the points are closed. Put the cap on & double check the plug wires, 1-2-4-3, CCW. Then, remove the primary wire from the side of the distributor (or at the coil, whichever is easier) Put one lead of your VOM (set on resistance) on the stud on the side of the distributor & the other on the block or other good ground. Slowly turn the distributor. The needle will move as the points close & then open. Find the exact spot just as the points open & then tighten down the distributor.

Now check your work (and the dynamic timing) w/ a light.

If it won't idle below 500 rpm (400 is better) don't bother w/ a light.

If it idles ok, make 3 marks w/ chalk or white paint on the flywheel:

4*
10*
17*

Start the engine.

At idle, the light should flash & the marker should line up exactly at 4* if you did the static timing correctly.

If not, loosen the distributor & turn it until the marks line up. It should take very little adjustment.

Once you've got that done, increase the engine speed to 1200 rpms. The light should flash & the marker should line up w/ the 10* mark. Then, increase the rpms to 2000 & look for the marker to align w/ the 17* mark.

Close counts on the advanced timing. A degree or 2 either way is ok. But, no movement or 5* or more off means you have an advance weight problem. You don't adjust the distributor to fix that.
75 Tips
 
PostPosted: Sat Aug 16, 2014 2:11 pm Post subject: Re: Bruce Va
Remove the #1 spark plug. (removing all of them makes the job a bit easier) Ignition off, place your thumb over the #1 spark plug hole and crank slowly until compression is felt. Continue to crank the engine until you see the timing mark, 0* (top dead center) on the flywheel through the timing hole in the right side of the bell housing. Use chalk on the flywheel to exactly align the 4 degree mark with the pointer.

LOOK at where the rotor is pointer on the old distributor,

Remove the lock nut & remove the distributor.

Hold the new distributor beside the engine. W/ the distributor oiler at the 7 o’clock position & the stud at 9 o’clock, turn the rotor until it points roughly at the same place the old rotor pointed. (close counts) Now insert the distributor. Rotate the distributor housing counter clockwise until the points are closed. Put the cap on & double check the plug wires, 1-2-4-3, CCW. Then, remove the primary wire from the side of the distributor (or at the coil, whichever is easier) Put one lead of your VOM (set on resistance) on the stud on the side of the distributor & the other on the block or other good ground. Slowly turn the distributor. The needle will move as the points close & then open. Find the exact spot just as the points open & then tighten down the distributor.


Is this part from manual?
Seems like ive read that part before. Ive read alot.. the other part about 4 10 and 17 i havent read.. I read somewhere about doing the Thing with your thumb and something bout moving fly wheel with screw driver til the 18 degree mark lines up.. I read so much that it get confusing ..lol. when i get ready to change it out i will be asking questions. You have been very helpful. Thank You Shane.
 

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