ford 8n 12 volt

Anonymous-0

Well-known Member
i have a 8N that seems to run fine for a few mins then acts like your on a bull it bucks and does not want to stay running i have to put choke on to get it to stay running i am stumped
 
Jim........just so you know, 8N"s had 2 different versions of ignition systems. The early 8N"s have the weird 4-nipple front-mount and the later 8N"s have more common 5-nipple side-mount. You can count nipples, can"t you? How-some-ever, yer complaint is quite common to the weird 4-nipple with square-can ignition coil. A RICH mixture, is easier to sparkle with a weak sparkie. Enriching the mixture with the choke, as you found out does that. Aren"t choke knobs wonderful?

First off, keep yer itchy-twitchy fingers off"n them handy-dandy carburetor tweek"ums. They ain"t "chur problem. You have a SPARKIE problem. And I"m using my amazing powers of guess-tamation and guessing you have the weird 4-nipple front-mount. The points are gapped a THIN 0.015". Condensers seldom go bad but are always included in a "points-kit". Ittza 2-bolt, 15-min job to remove the front-mount dizzy and change the points on the kitchen table. Just un-snapple the capple and letter dangle. Remember the "polish" the points after installation (0.015") with clean piece of heavy cardboard like paper match cover. Installation is a reversal of the removal. I don"t haffta remind you to remember to re-install the rotor before you snapple the capple, do I?

While yer complaint is NOT consistent with fouled sparkies, we recommend AutoLite-437"s gapped 0.025". Remember, firing order is 1,2,4,3...with #1 closest to radiator. Take a close look at yer 4-nipple capple, the firing order is molded next to the nipples, simple eh? ........Dell, yer self-appointed sparkie-meister
 
Welcome back Dell.
That was a pretty long hiatus.
It must feel good to get your itchy-twitchy fingers back on a handy-dandy keyboard again.
 
As Dell asked.....front or side distributor?

Pulling out the choke gives you a richer mixture. So, you could have either a fuel or spark problem.

A carb out of adjustment will also cause this problem; set the main jet at 1-1/2 turns out & leave it alone.

A dirty carb can cause the problem as well; start by cleaning the fuel screens.

Dirty/old gas, or water in the gas can cause this problem.

Restricted fuel flow can cause this problem; remove the bolt at the bottom of the carb & check for flow.

On my 1950 frontmount, needing choke to run is the first sign that the points need adjusting/replacing.

A vacuum leak can do the same thing. Get a hand propane torch and carefully spray it (unlit of course) around the intake manifold at the carb to manifold interface & the manifold to block gasket of the tractor while it is running. Or, you can use carb cleaner or WD40. If it speeds up, you found the leak. Sometimes (rarely) manifolds crack or get rust holes.

Lastly, when all else fails, you could have an air leak around the carb metering section. The likely suspects are leaky throttle shaft seals and/or a worn throttle shaft. Or, just a real dirty carb w/ clogged passages.

Bottom line: Probably 90% of "needs choke to run" problems are fuel related, but do not rule out ignition problems, contrary to what others may tell you. I’ve had that very same problem before w/ a rebuilt carb, fresh fuel & good flow & a tight manifold.......and it was a spark problem. But, that was unusual. Just check the likely fuel problems first.

Please be sure to post back & let us know what the fix was. We all learn something if you tell us what worked!
75 Tips
 
I'm so sorry you're having troubles,just listen to the sparkiemeiester... He'll set you straight
Good to hear from you Delll(WA)
 
wow.

both the "itchy twitchy" and "unsnapple the capple" on your first post back!!

well done sir; i've misssed that kinda stuff.
 

Welcome back, Dell!

Listen to what these guys tell you. I had a dead 8N a couple years back and by following their advice on ignitions and carb I got it running and it's running still.
 

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