OT advise on a Ford 2000

Need a tractor to do some snow removal, bush-hogging and general workhorse for a 300 acre farm. The renter is farming the land and maintains the majority of the acreage but I need something to maintain the tree lines, creek bottoms and other areas he doesn"t use. I don"t think the 8n has enough rear end for the job and I want live hydraulics so I can back into brush and work in tight places.

Back in my youth we had Ford 4000 and 5000 models with blades and sidewinder bush hogs for the job, they were great but they are all gone. Looking at a 1970 Ford 2000 for $4500. No bush hog or blade so that would be an extra expense. Interested in advise about the size of the tractor and intent.

Seems the more I read the less I knew. Here is a picture of my prospect. It looks like gas but not sure. I don't know how to identify the transmission.

As usual, I was going to ask you if it was a 4 cylinder like her older systers the 600 and 601s since most folks fail to mention that..
But a 1970 would be the new platform 3 cylinder model.
Never, ever trust the hours on the tach unless you actually SEE it turning over with your own eyes.
Tachs, especially hours, failed early on all the 65 to 75 2,3,4,5000 Fords.
By 1970 the differences between a 2000 and 3000 had pretty much been erased.
Or at least you could have ordered a 2000 with all the options a 3000 had.
Probably 97% of their parts will interchange.
Are you looking at a gas or diesel model?
Both are popular and reliable.
$4500 is in the zone for a nice clean one though I wouldn't pay that for one if it didn't have both live PTO And PS.
If I had to fudge on one or another I would let the lpto go but not the ps.
The twin stick 6 and 8 speeds could have lpto and could not. The single stick 4 sp is transmission pto only. It is the least desirable transmission of that series, well, next to the Select O Speed which I would NOT pay $4500 for.
They're great small tractors. They're what an N could have been if they had had it all figured out in 1939 or 1948.
You've been here for most of a year so I assume you know to look for the usual drips, leaks, cracks, welds, knocks, ratltles, tires, paint, and rust.
Did I mention tires?
For that price it should have good ones.
But it's all negeotible after all.
A 3 cylinder would still be very familiar to someone who has owned or worked on an N or Hundred.
Pictures and updates are welcome.

It's a gas.
4 speed and no ps.
I would not pay that for it. Might pay 3.5 to 4K but it had better have new tires and run excellent for 4.

Gasoline, 4 speed transmission without live PTO, no PS....

I would not pay much more than $2,500.

Dean

agree with UD and Dean.
That tractor, although very nice looking, equipped the way it is,
I wouldn't consider it to be any different than the earlier 60*-80* series....just blue.
around $3k plus or minus a little.
Above 4 grand, I'd hold out for the dual range transmission and power steering at least.
Especially that dual range transmission,
which all tractors, all brands should have...........

Same here "pass". The best part about that tractor is the original seat and its gone . My rule unless it comes with a woman that can support me, NO Power Steering, No Hi/LO, PASS...

The carburetor on the side of the engine in your picture is a clue, diesels don't have carbs. I'd keep looking, if I were you. Power steering, live pto, etc.

Jerry

The carburetor on the side of the engine in your picture is a clue, diesels don"t have carbs. I"d keep looking, if I were you. Power steering, live pto, etc.

Jerry

That was my feelings also. After further consideration and research I"ll look for another model with Live PTO, power steering and Live Hydraulics.

Thanks to all for the input.

Even worst it that Holley gives most folks a fit but its as simple as it gets...

All Ford tractors from 1953 onwards have live hydraulics.
All of them.
The hydraulic and pto functions were conjoined on the Ns but seperated starting with the Jubilees.
Jubilee onward the hydraulic pump is driven off the engine - not the transmission.
So it matters not whether your clutch is in or out, or your pto is in or out. You still have hydraulic function as long as the engine is running. Live hydraulics was a great advance.
My first upgrade from an 8N was a 2000 almost identical to that one. 4 sp, non PS, gasser.
It was a low houred little sweet heart and it would eat an 8N's lunch.
I loved that tractor.
The one in your photo is still a sweetheart but maybe I'm a bit jaded so I want all the options and everything on the cheap.
Realistically, in these parts, if you could get him under $4K it is still worth considering.
Heck, you see nice 8Ns all the time around here for $3600 and that one, even without all the options, is still a significant upgrade from an N.

Holley?
What's that?
40 years of wrenching has made everything easy to fellows like you.
Some of us hacks still have a hard time getting continuity on the VOM between the economizer valve and pto.