oil lelak at governor

spent couple hrs degreasing 8n therapeutic for me and I noticed fresh oil at governor, governor works good, had driven tractor day before, I see tube from oil filter canister to governor but in your experience how many areas can leaks take place most probable to least itll help me tomorrow when I clean it up and drive it around, it may be simple at tube leak. will post what I find, overhaul per manual reads like its out of my league.
 
All three of my 8Ns have leaked at the governor where it mounts to the tractor. Two of them I fixed the leak by sanding the governor housing flat. That seems to fix it pretty well. I haven't tried it on the third one yet. Over time I guess they warp a little thru heating and cooling and need to be flattened back out. I put sandpaper on a wood block and sand til it smoothes it out. Others will probably have better info for you, thats just what I've seen.
 
I just fixed the governor on my 1950 8n the same way as Cooter143. There is a small screw on the face, remove that and pull the internals out and sand away. I used my table saw for a flat surface, and used a figure 8 motion so as not to have straight lines across the face . It may have been overkill but I of the put a REAL THIN coat of black gasket sealer on both sides of the gasket. No leaks, I was surprised how much it took to get it back to a flat surface.
 
On mine I cut the holes off the gasket for the thru bolts. My ears were bent forward tho and I leave them bent .
 
As the others have said, use 80 grit sandpaper on a flat surface and hold the body of the governor in your hand face down and sand away. In the picture you can see how much I have taken off and how much is yet to go to get the surface flat.
a164059.jpg
 

Like TJ in KY, I took the internals out of the governor and got a hold of 100 grit and 320 grit sand paper. Found a flat surface (I have a 1/2 inch old piece of glass that I use to check my heads for warpness) taped the 100 grit paper down and started moving the governor along the top of the sand paper in a figure 8 motion. Every once in a while I laid the governor housing on another part of the glass and tried sliding a .002 feeler gauge between the glass and governor. When I couldn't I taped down the 320 grit and ran the housing on it it smooth out further.

Did two so far this way and not a drop of oil has leaked.
Double up on the gaskets and don't over tighten the mounting bolts which distorts the housing which is the reason why it is leaking.
 

Over tighten the mounting bolts had noting to do with it but if you gotta fiddle with the surface two gaskets will help return the gov back closer to were it originally was intended for it to be. It is possible to over do this feel good operation.
 
(quoted from post at 05:19:48 07/28/14)
Over tighten the mounting bolts had noting to do with it but if you gotta fiddle with the surface two gaskets will help return the gov back closer to were it originally was intended for it to be. It is possible to over do this feel good operation.

Hobo on this very rare occasion I will have to disagree with you.
The softer governor housing metal will form to the cast-iron of the engine block if those bolts are tightened hard enough and the governor housing will assume the same shape over time.

Please don't hit me.
 

The gov is trying its best to push itself away from the cover its under stress all the time... The soft metal losses in this fight...
Its possible to dress the face to much BTDT play careful... RTV is a quick fix and will last as long are longer and not upset clearance issues... Their will be a next time if we live that long....
 

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