electronic ignition conversion

dogsled1

Member
Looking at parts here on YT for my '52 8N and they have a Pertronix solid state ignition for $80 something bucks. I have already converted to 12V negative ground. This tractor will only be used a few times a year on hunting lease property for cutting and working food plots, snaking logs, etc. I'm guessing 20-25 hours per year. Is it worth the upgrade? I'd like to hear from folks that are using these. Thanks,
 
A good set of points (Blue Streak) will last many years with that sort of hours on the tractor. Others like the EI to put it in and forget it. If you have the money and know how, I would do it, but if cash is a concern, or you are not hellbent on changing to the modern, a points system works fine. I have both types on a 6 volt system. If presented with the choice today, I would probably stick with points because I don't mind checking them every springtime and sometimes changing them. YMMV as someone on here used to write.

BTW, let the arguments begin.
 
This topic comes up pretty regularly dogsled, hence G6's last comment.
Pros and cons abound. "Set 'em and forget 'em" is a big plus of EI.
Cost is the major detractor for many folks.
Mine are all running points still, even though I got a "free" EI unit
in a parts tractor I bought. I'll get around to installing it in something
one of these days so I can have direct knowledge to contribute.
 
I personally have never had any kind of failure with electronic
ignition. My over seventy year old tractor will start up all winter
and plow us out. I"ve had lots of points failures over the years.
So, based on my experience, I am a fan of electronic ignition. I
do own a dwell meter, but I haven"t seen it in quite some time.

Jerry
 
good price.
cheap points don't work, so the price difference is small when you buy good points and condenser.

Your side distributor 12v neg ground tractor is the perfect candidate for EI. easy

On a tractor that isn't used much and is in a remote location,
I'd lean towards EI. Points don't like to sit idle for extended periods.
(they grow stuff on them)
I have all combos of points/EI/6v/12v here.
They all work, and using the tractors, honestly, I wouldn't know what has what if I didn't look.
But my main go to tractors are 12v-EI's, especially the winter ones.

If you put the EI in, take all the point setup and seal it in a bag and put it in the toolbox for back-up
(peace of mind, you won't need it)

most important, get your ignition and carb and all that right and the tractor running perfect BEFORE you switch over.
EI is just a replacement of points, not a miracle cure for all ills..........
 
I am an electronic guy and my Farmall still has points, it works fine. I would rather have points in a remote location because it is easier to correct a failure.

You can just file points to get them running.
 
(quoted from post at 08:47:03 07/24/14) I am an electronic guy and my Farmall still has points, it works fine. I would rather have points in a remote location because it is easier to correct a failure.

You can just file points to get them running.

EI on an N is just a solid state "switch" that is a bolt in replacement for the mechanical contact breaker inside the distributor.

Put the mechanical points/condensor in the tractor toolbox as a backup for the solid state module. :idea: :idea:

TOH
 
Electronic ignition will compensate for normal distributor shaft and bushing wear on a 50+ year old tractor. Cylinder to cylinder timing and dwell will be as accurate as new or better.

Have seen much better starting and smooth running using magnetic trigger electronic ignition conversions.
Great deal if you can connect with a local dealer that stocks a few spare switching modules. That is about all that fails, and those failures are rare. Still nice to have parts avalable on same day instead of waiting on a mail order.
 
ditto what TOH said.

if you have a good running and working 12v neg ground system that runs and starts good on points, and you want ei to have that same good running and starting, then do the drop in swap, spray a lil silicon on the points and breaker plate to prevent corrosion and put it in a ziplock baggie with tools in the tool box. When / if the ei fails in a remote area, drop the points back in and keep working till you can get another 80$ module.
 

You eliminate allot of troublesome issues with EI... Search for point spark issues it takes days weeks and pages of post to find point system issues... Sometimes you get lucky enuff to clean up a set of points and finish up the job when you don't it can get nasty locating the issue...

I have converted all but two in my flock to EI the rest are get'n EI soon.... There is no comparison EI versus points EI wins... You can use that roll of sand paper and contact cleaner for what it was made for :lol:
 
I just got my '47 (front-mount distributor/coil) up and running yesterday with one of the Pertronix 1247XT kits. I was completely underwhelmed with the reliability of the available front-mount 12 coils and am happy to be able to now use a "normal" automotive-type coil. The main precaution to observe in maintaining the 'health' of EI is to not leave it energized (key-on) when the engine is not running.
 
I put EI in one of my tractors, ran it for 7 years and did not have to touch the distributer in that time.
I sold that tractor to a local fellow 2 years ago. He calls me 3 or 4 times a year for advice on implements and such and we usually bs for a while. I always ask how "my" tractor is running and how is the EI doing.
The tractor still runs great and he hasn't touched the distributer since he bought it.

100_08381.jpg
 
Thanks for all of the feedback. Given that this tractor will be left at the hunting club and will sit for extended periods, I like the advice to keep the old parts as spares for an emergency. I'll get her running with points and then upgrade.
 

If you have a 12V alternator there is no reason to keep a amp meter move up to a voltmeter... That and EI and you are cook'n with gas....
 
(quoted from post at 17:42:55 07/24/14)
If you have a 12V alternator there is no reason to keep a amp meter move up to a voltmeter... That and EI and you are cook'n with gas....


Aw, too late, I just put in a new ammeter when I finished the 12V conversion that somebody else did not complete. The old one was so corroded you could barely see the needle.
 
(quoted from post at 17:42:55 07/24/14)
If you have a 12V alternator there is no reason to keep a amp meter move up to a voltmeter... That and EI and you are cook'n with gas....

agree
reading posts on charging system problems here for 15 years,
every single one advises getting your voltmeter out and checking voltage running and not running.
Why walk to the toolbox. If you have one in the dash, you can just look at it :)
And depending on where you pick up the power to run the dash voltmeter and/or its little gauge light......they can tell you all kinds of interesting things..........
 
How odd.

I just had a no spark condition on my '52 8N and
went through the entire system with a v/o meter and
diagnosed it in about 10 minutes.

This tractor ran for 4 years with no maintenance on
the points.

Brad
 

We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today.

Back
Top