Different way to trim 8N rear main rope seal

Wooster

New User
Recently when doing a complete rebuild of my 1950 8N engine I found a way to trim the 1/16" off the rope seal that sticks out on each end. After soaking and packing into the retainer with the curvature of a large socket I took a 1/16" Chevy starter shim and the end with the hole bolted to the oil pan or block and the split end fit around the end of the rope seal sticking out with no modifications. Simple as taking a razor knife and triming. Can email pics.
 
You'd better post pics cause I can't understand a word of it. :D

I hope you rolled the seal into the groove starting at one end and rolling toward the center then starting from the other end, again rolling toward the center. Greatest reason for leakage is failure to do this, I think.

Also when trimming ends a round block of wood the same diameter as the crankshaft flange should be used to hold the seal in place while the ends are being cut off.

I did my first one in 1975 on a 235 Chev 6.
 

One end of the starter shim is slotted :wink: ... I cut them flush always have its about impossible to trim them flush anyways.... No leakers so I must be doing something right.... I spec the next question will be I installed my pan and the engine is locked up :cry:
 
I rolled the oil soaked rope seal in good with a large socket. The slotted end of a 1/16" Chevy starter shim fit around the rope seal sticking up when the other end is bolted either to the oil pan or block. A razor blade across the top of the shim leaves 1/16" of rope seal sticking up. No leaks after 3 months of use.
a163465.jpg
 

OH, that's what you meant!

Good show!

I was going to say that even though some say (even books) to cut them flush, you did the right thing. I think it might have been a machinist who told me to leave a little sticking up.

One has to kind of pinch them narrower on the parts you leave protruding so as to be sure that no wick gets between cap and block when you torque the cap down.

My 235 Chev seal is still doing it's thing well after all these years.
this is the truck it is still in.
mvphoto9334.jpg
 
(reply to post at 08:03:40 07/20/14)

Wooster,
Were you saying that you cut above that shim leaving 1/16" sticking up, or did you just use the shim to hold the wick while you sliced underneath it?

When I did my 235 Chev one, I only left a tiny amount sticking up on the block side, as I recall, but not on the cap also. I wanted the ends of the seal to compress into each other a hair, rather than just butt together. As I said I made sure that the cap to block face were clear all the way.

That was 39 years ago. No leaks, no smoke and excellent oil pressure to this day. But it is sure crying out to be started up and run -- that was the plan until I came down with tractor fever. :)

Cheers,
T
 

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