pitting in cylinder under liner

Anonymous-0

Well-known Member
New to the board and to these tractors although my grandpa owned this one and I grew up on it and have many memories on it as a child. I now have a 51 8N that was smoking after a very long storage spell so I decided to tear her down and rebuild. This is the first engine I have ever built with sleeves and I'm curious on what y'all think about this pitting under the sleeves and if this is common or still usable with a new sleeve installed in it.I have pics but don't know how to post them.
 
Apparently, I cant post pics with a new account...but this pitting is in a line down the cylinder about 2 inches long and in center of cylinder ..not near top or bottom. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Id hate to throw money at it if it isn't worth rebuilding. It currently has.040 liners in it and standard bearings on both rod and mains. I sent the crank out for turning because the tolerances were out.
 

Just post about a dozen reply's to this post and you can post a pix... Just type in Test'tin and it will let you post a pix....

I would take the block to the machine shop and if they find it OK have them punch it out and install .090 sleeves in it... 040's are just to problematic to mess with...
 
I agree with hobo. the thick liners are the best way to go. if your bores are too bad for some reason... chek repair sleave custom bores.
 
mvphoto9266.jpg

Here's a pic...hopefully
 
You passed the Goober test :D

Have the machine shop take a look 90's should take care of your issue.... That looks bad but would not slow me down 40's are 90's....
 
thanks hobo...I have it all loaded and waiting for the machine shop trip first thing in the morning. Let them work their magic on it and do the valves while it's there. This site is gonna save me allot of time and trouble...and may get me in more trouble with the wife..lol that's the kinda trouble I like. Hehe
I will post back the findings and updates as they come.
 
(quoted from post at 22:51:32 07/18/14) thanks hobo...I have it all loaded and waiting for the machine shop trip first thing in the morning. Let them work their magic on it and do the valves while it's there. This site is gonna save me allot of time and trouble...and may get me in more trouble with the wife..lol that's the kinda trouble I like. Hehe
I will post back the findings and updates as they come.

Is that corrosion or gouges caused by someone splitting/chiseling the sleeves out during a previous rebuild??

TOH
 

That's what it looks like to me too -- marks from previous heavy-handed sleeve removal.
 
no it is actually rust pits...there is no indication that this engine was EVER rebuilt.. standard bearings, standard everything...all parts have ford logo..even pistons. I've asked my father if it was EVER rebuilt and he said his dad took it too the dealer a few times for small things but it was never overhauled while they owned it that he can recall.
 
I used the sleeve puller that is being sold on eBay to pull them...they came out smooth and was surprised how well the tool worked to remove them.
 

Did I hear you say you were going to magna flux the block to check for hairline cracks? I wonder if a weepy head gasket allowed a trickle of water to get down there.

Nice to have an engine that has never been rebuilt, especially if the block has no cracks. It is always a bonus on an engine you plan to rebuild and keep, that you are the first one to rebuild it -- especially on blocks without sleeves. I remember my old mentor machinists telling me that the best block to rebuild is one that was never bored out or rebuilt previously. :)

Cheers,
T
 
Tall T.. yes I am having everything magnafluxed to be sure. I don't want to take any shortcuts then have too do this all again lol .....been down that road on a build before(53 Kaiser Frazer sedan)
 
took it and dropped it off at the machinist today and he looked at it and said he could definitely fix it with new .090 liners after he checks the block for cracks etc with magna fluxing. I'm gonna go ahead and let them install the new sleeves since he is doing the work on the cylinders as well as a full valve job. Can't wait to get her back and get working on putting it all back together!
 
GOOD NEWS!
Nothing like a brand new classic engine that will last you forever
when you do it up right.
The machinists I learned things from who have since passed away, held the old blocks with their cast iron heads and heavy cranks and solid lifters and the integrity of the steel and iron . . . in high regard. :)

Terry

P.S.
Probably one of the advantages of a block that has never been rebuilt before you, is that the block mating face should be fine . . . so if anything needed resurfacing it should only be the head. Perhaps some people have had head AND block resurfaced thinking that if the head is done, then it is wise to do the block for good measure when that reasoning is not mechanically wise.
 

Make sure he has the pistons so he can check the fit and correct if needed... I would also have the rod reconditioned and have him build the oil pump...

Avoid surfacing the block and head if possible.. Of course I don't take my own advice on that I resurface them all but suffer the consequence... John Smith and Zane both are again it and I don't doubt there word... The consequence is allot of pain time consuming labor to correct piston to head interference I guess I like the torch'er...
 
I agree - a previous owner or mechanic used a screwdriver or chisel to remove that sleeve in the past (as was recommended in Ford's own manual with the thin steel sleeves). You can see the scoring in line to support that. Many even tried with the thicker cast iron sleeves not knowing any better and cracked the block. Might be they only replaced the sleeves and rings previously, or used genuine Ford parts back when you could still get them. Regardless, these are not bad enough to hurt. I have seen worse, and just skimmed with JB Weld and lightly sanded flush and resleeved.

Listen to Hobo - all machine shops I have used want to see a flat head mating surface and always want to surface the block - unless it is really bad the head will flex a little to compensate. Never do it if there are any machine marks showing a previous resurface job. I have gotten away with a little less than -.010" but that was pushing it.

Good luck,
Dan
 
my head checked out good and doesn't need any work..the block surface looked good..no marks showing a previous resurface so I'm leaving it alone.while everything is AT the machinist I can take time to rebuild the governor and replace the ring gear etc.. who still does flywheel resurfacing these days..a machinist I guess..LOL
Thanks to everyone for all the help and I look forward too many years with this tractor and this group.
 

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