work light/headlight wiring on 8n

bob pelton · Jul 16, 2014

I recently read a fella bought a 3 pole fused pull out switch to allow him to light headlights only, work light only or both head lights and work light on at the same time. I located the switch 6volt 3 position and fused but when I draw out the wiring it will backfeed and light all lights from the poles going only to work light and only head lights, do I need a couple I think you call them diodes that are like electrical check valves that allow power to s light but not backfeed to another pole? any one have a wiring diagram to do this. thanks in advance

Royse · Jul 16, 2014

You don't need diodes in the lighting circuit.
Is your tractor 6V or 12V, positive or negative ground?
Not that the polarity of ground really matters other than
for ease of conversation. I am wondering if you are switching
the power side or the grounded side of the circuit.

Indiana Ken · Jul 16, 2014

Are you saying the switch is three position with one position being off? In that case I only see two choices and not three.

My work light has a toggle switch in the back of the shell. My pull switch selects head lights + work light or work light only. If I do not want to run the work light with the head lights I turn off the work light toggle switch. Normally I leave the work light toggle switch on so that, the light works with the pull switch.

rvirgil_KS · Jul 16, 2014

3 position switches I've seen are off - on 1 - on 2. It would have off - headlights or tail light on 1 -- both headlights and tail lights on 2

Diodes won't help, you need another position on the main switch or perhaps a second on/off switch to tail lights connected on position 1.

Switch doesn't care if it is 6 or 12 volt, positive or negative ground.

bob pelton · Jul 16, 2014

I would be switching the power side or negative as batt. is pos. ground power comes off just below the resistor on left side of dash. above key. switch is off completely and then three settings as you pull out switch, so 4 pole?. here are my thoughts all in all off, first pull headlights, second pull all lights, 3rd pull only work light, this is how I would like it, work light on 8n has toggle but bulb is broke couldn't buy only bulb so bought whole light, not sure if I can switch bulbs old bulb has only one wire to it and is all glass don't see how this gets to ground to finish circuit. new light has no toggle

Royse · Jul 16, 2014

As long as you are switching power side, that's all I wondered.

Is this the TSC switch that I posted about a while back?
If so I'd actually have to check where the exact terminals are,
but the "front" terminal is power in. IIRC, pulling it out one position
applies power to a single terminal (headlights), pulling out to the
second position applies power to that first terminal plus a second
one (work light) so both are on. The third position turns off the
first terminal but leaves the second one on (work light only).
Counting "Off", that's a four position switch. Not poles though.
Poles and positions (or throws) are two completely different things.
If that's what you have, I can get you a diagram of one of mine.

Royse · Jul 16, 2014

"Switch doesn't care if it is 6 or 12 volt, positive or negative ground."

True statement.
If this was in response to my post, please re-read what I wrote.
My question was which side of the circuit was being switched.
Powered or grounded. Which might make a difference.

rvirgil_KS · Jul 16, 2014

Just making the point that the switch normally connects the hot battery source (battery post) to the load (in this case lights). The switch is isolated from "ground" and does not care if it is operating in a positive or a negative ground system.

Confirms your point that ground polarity does not matter to the switch.

Also, as long as current limits are not exceeded it does not care whether if it is in a 6 or 12 volt circuit.

Indiana Ken · Jul 17, 2014

(quoted from post at 18:47:51 07/16/14) I would be switching the power side or negative as batt. is pos. ground power comes off just below the resistor on left side of dash. above key. switch is off completely and then three settings as you pull out switch, so 4 pole?. here are my thoughts all in all off, first pull headlights, second pull all lights, 3rd pull only work light, this is how I would like it, work light on 8n has toggle but bulb is broke couldn't buy only bulb so bought whole light, not sure if I can switch bulbs old bulb has only one wire to it and is all glass don't see how this gets to ground to finish circuit. new light has no toggle

It sounds like your switch should work as you describe. Perhaps your switch is faultly. Due to the number of output terminals (wire connections) on these switches there is very little space between them. You might examine the switch, I think you may find there is contact between two of the terminals creating the problem you describe.

The old work lamp should have two terminals on the glass bulb. One of the terminals is connected (inside) to the metal shell of the lamp. The circuit is completed (grounded) when the lamp is mounted to the tractor fender. At least that is how mine is constructed.

Plane Bart · Jul 17, 2014

You need to move the power supply ( incoming power from battery) to the common terminal this is the terminal that will have continuity too one or both of the switched terminals use a continuity tester to figure out which one it is
Positive ground or negative ground power supply will not matter a switch only makes or breaks the circuit
But you cannot put both together on a switch or you will have a dead short
As far as tractor lights only having one wire the tractor chassis us your second conductor to complete the circuit

Bart Master Electrician

work light/headlight wiring on 8n

bob pelton

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Royse

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Indiana Ken

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rvirgil_KS

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bob pelton

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Royse

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rvirgil_KS

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Indiana Ken

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