Got some splinin' to do questions on Universal Lock Nut

I had problems with my '52 8N last fall. It would not move forward or backward, but PTO still worked. I was afraid I messed up an axle, but it turned out to be the left hub instead (see photo) I'm going to check out the right hub next.

When I ordered the new hubs from this site, I also ordered the Universal Lock Nut. The archives seemed to pretty much favor this over the original nut and wire clip.
The instructions they sent are a little spartan though:

The Universal Lock Nut
On spindles or bolts where you have key slots, you can use our new key and no longer have to hold the nut while tightening the ring.

DIRECTIONS: First, put on sleeve nut, like shown in picture No.1 and install key No. 2, with tall part of key first, as shown on picture No.1 and No. 2. Next screw on ring nut, as shown in picture No.3, tightening the ring good and tight. This keeps the key from coming out and the nut is double-locked. If key slot is too small for the key, the key can easily be filed or ground a little to fit key slot. Key should always fit loosely in slot so it will be easy to remove. No rethreading is necessary on old worn threads. If threads are battered, retrace with three-cornered file. Where you have no key slots, just screw on sleeve nut and tighten ring as shown on Picture No.3.

TO REMOVE: Screw off ring nut and turn sleeve nut a little forward or backward, whichever way the key shows to be loose, then key can easily be pushed out.

How much torque should be put on each nut?

Thanks,
Doug in east TN

If the old nut is usable I would reuse it are get a new nut..

I'm with Hobo,Use the old one or get a new one and not use the repair nut.You may have to replace that axle to,it looks like it is worn also.Put the new hub on and check for slop in the splines.If put together with slop it will just wear out the hub and you won't be able to keep it tight.

If I am seeing your picture correctly the splines in the hub are completely worn away. That wheel had to have been making a lot of noise before the tractor finally stopped moving. With that much damage to the hub I would think the axle splines are worn so badly that a new hub would not fit tight enough. I would replace the axle, hub, seals and use an original style lock nut. I would also check the axle bearing. It had to have taken a real beating.

OK. There was not a lot of noise that I remember from the hub - maybe a squeak once in a while. I can see where the drum rubbed a brake spring. But I was pretty surprised to see the hub splines completely cleaned off. I thought the axle looked OK.
I got the impression these clamp nuts were the only way to go, from the archives. But the original nut is fine, so I will reuse that. And I"ve got a 3/4" socket set with breaker bar to get enough torque applied.
Thanks for the feedback. We"ll see how it fits later today.

Doug in east TN

John Smith has a great picture of how the hub should fit on the
axle, along with a good explanation. It's in the seal replacement
section at this LINK about halfway down the page.
Best of luck!

Wow!

I have never seen a hub worn that badly.

How is the axle?

Dean