8n nno sparkies

thommoos

Member
Front dist points. tractor will no start ofcourse, I have check the points and with the coil attached and ditrubutor grounded I get an orange to blue spark turning it by hand. then I put the cap and button on, install it nothing:(. what am I missing? I changed button also.
 
6v or 12v?

How are you checking for spark at the plugs?

First, put your battery on a charger.

You need a strong battery to:

1. Close the solenoid

2. Spin the starter

3. Engage the bendix

4. Provide voltage to the coil.

As the battery gets weaker, the first thing to fail is your spark. If the battery is almost totally dead, all you will hear is the solenoid clicking.

In addition to charging the battery, chances are you need new cables as well (tip # 41). And, don't forget to clean all the grounds, to include the mating area between the starter & the block.

The more current you use to spin the starter, the less you have for the ignition.

Assuming that the bushings & advance weights are ok (*see below), & that you have correct voltage to the coil (battery voltage with the points open and about half that with the points closed), the most common electrical failure (no spark, weak spark) points on the front mount are:

1. The insulator under the brass concave head screw & where the copper strip attaches. (it’s fiber & will wear out; poke & prod w/ your meter leads to make sure it still works) If you need to replace the insulator, use a .250 x 3/8 nylon square nylon anchor nut available at most big box home stores

2. The pigtail at the bottom of the coil not making contact w/ the concave head brass screw inside the distributor. (With the coil on, the pigtail must firmly contact the brass screw. No contact = no spark

3. The copper strip is broken or grounded to the plate. (look very carefully for cracks & breaks).

4. The condenser wire grounding to the plate or side of the distributor.

5. The tab on the bottom of the coil not making contact w/ the brass button on the cap. (With the cap on, the tab must firmly contact the brass button. No contact = no spark.)

6. Incorrect positioning of the spring clip on the plate causing the pigtail to ground. (the open part of the clip goes between 7 & 9 o’clock on the plate. That puts the straight part of the clip opposite of the timing screw at 3 o’clock)

7. Incorrect seating of the coil on the distributor due to a loose bail or no gasket.(the coil must not move at all; if it does, replace the gasket or bail. Or stick some cardboard under the bail).

8. Water/moisture inside the cap due to gasket failure or the absence of a gasket. (the cap AND coil have gaskets)

9. Dirty/corroded/burned/incorrectly gapped or misaligned points. I use only Wells, Blue Streak or Echlin brand points (* *see below).

10. Burned rotor, cracked/carbon tracked cap.

At this point, I just put the distributor, coil & cap all back on the tractor as a unit. The reason I do this is because it is real easy to get the cap or coil misaligned trying to put it back together, one piece at a time. The result is something gets broken or you get a ‘no spark’ problem.

It's possible to put it back on wrong & break it. Look at the slot on the end of the cam shaft. Whatever angle it happens to be, turn the distributor tang to match it. Make sure you can tell the wide side from the narrow side on both the cam & distributor! (close counts). Place the distributor on the front of the engine, gently push it in place & slowly turn the distributor body until you feel the tang slip into the slot. Rotate the distributor body until the bolt holes line up. Hand tighten the two bolts until the distributor body is flush with the timing gear cover.


* Unscrew the plate hold down screw & remove the C clip to get the plate out. Remove the shaft & weights. The weights should freely move.


* *NAPA part numbers:
• Points: FD-6769X
• Condenser: FD-71
• Rotor: FD-104
• Cap: FD-126
75 Tips
 
yes checking the plugs string battery, spins over good, I beginning to think something goes wrong with assembly going to check right now again.
 
I asked if your tractor was 6v or 12v.

I also asked "HOW" are you checking for spark.

Are you using a store-bought plug checker or an old spark plug w/ the gap opened to 1/4"?

" string battery, spins over good" isn't the point.

Unless you checked the battery w/ a hydrometer/load tester, or just took it off a charger, "spins over good" doesn't mean you have sufficient voltage for both the starter AND a strong spark.

So, lets rewind this tape & try again.

6v or 12v?

How are you checking for spark at the plugs?

First, put your battery on a charger.
 
we can't help you much untill you fill in a few blanks for us. when we ask you questions.. it's not a busy work assignment.. it's so we can narrow down what a problem may be.

calling a car mechanic and telling him my car can't get me to work may mean you have a flat tire, are out of gas or it won't start.
 
12 v
i am checking with a spark tester.

What concerns me is I noticed that when checking for spark with the distributor off the tractor, I set it on the front axle and trun it by hand i get spark at the points, when assemble nothing, so I guess from here I start swapping parts? first is a new cap, I have trippled check to be sure nothing is loose or touching to creat a short. It just bothers me that I cannot diagnos the problem.
 
(quoted from post at 12:08:14 04/14/14) 12 v
i am checking with a spark tester.

What concerns me is I noticed that when checking for spark with the distributor off the tractor, I set it on the front axle and trun it by hand i get spark at the points, when assemble nothing, so I guess from here I start swapping parts? first is a new cap, I have trippled check to be sure nothing is loose or touching to creat a short. It just bothers me that I cannot diagnos the problem.
ou say, "spark at the points". The cap will have nothing to do with spark at points.
 
What voltage are you getting at the top of the coil?

" so I guess from here I start swapping parts? "

No.

You need to check the 10 things I suggested & you will find the problem in the distributor.

Then, you run a continuity check.

With the distributor still off the tractor, follow these steps:

1. Coil off, cap off, points open. One probe on the brass screw & the other on both sides of the open points. On the side closest to the cam, you should have continuity. Not on the other side! If you do, you will also have continuity everywhere because the points are grounded.

2. Coil off, cap off, points open. One probe on the brass screw & the other anywhere on the body of the distributor. You should have no continuity! Now, rotate the tang on the distributor....as the points open & close, you have continuity (closed) and lose it when they open.

3. Put the coil on the distributor, cap off, points open. One probe on the lead on the top of the coil, the other on the cam side of the open points. You should have continuity!

4. Coil on, cap off, points open. One probe on the lead on the top of the coil, the other anywhere on the body of the distributor. You should have no continuity!
75 Tips
 
The insulator under the brass concave head screw & where the copper strip attaches. (it’s fiber & will wear out; poke & prod w/ your meter leads to make sure it still works) If you need to replace the insulator, use a .250 x 3/8 nylon square nylon anchor nut available at most big box home stores, checked ok

2. The pigtail at the bottom of the coil not making contact w/ the concave head brass screw inside the distributor. (With the coil on, the pigtail must firmly contact the brass screw. No contact = no spark Checked making contact

3. The copper strip is broken or grounded to the plate. (look very carefully for cracks & breaks). checked replaced with extra one i had

4. The condenser wire grounding to the plate or side of the distributor. clear not not touchiong

5. The tab on the bottom of the coil not making contact w/ the brass button on the cap. (With the cap on, the tab must firmly contact the brass button. No contact = no spark.) not sure how to check this

6. Incorrect positioning of the spring clip on the plate causing the pigtail to ground. (the open part of the clip goes between 7 & 9 o’clock on the plate. That puts the straight part of the clip opposite of the timing screw at 3 o’clock)

7. Incorrect seating of the coil on the distributor due to a loose bail or no gasket.(the coil must not move at all; if it does, replace the gasket or bail. Or stick some cardboard under the bail). Tight seats well

8. Water/moisture inside the cap due to gasket failure or the absence of a gasket. (the cap AND coil have gaskets)none

9. Dirty/corroded/burned/incorrectly gapped or misaligned points. I use only Wells, Blue Streak or Echlin brand points (* *see below). 10. Burned rotor, cracked/carbon tracked cap.
cleaned and gapped correctly
 
????????

You just posted what I suggested could be your no spark problem.

Are you trying to ask a question & are having PC problems? :?
 
I will today, asnd report back my finding this afternoon. Just not as good as mechanic as I used to be. To much Office work.
 

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