Hydraulink Self Contained Toplink Cylinder

Fuddy Duddy · Apr 14, 2014

Any body tried one of these for a Top Link? Seems to be not any
thing more than an air shock built into a top link. Guess if you want
to shorten it you drop the 3 point down, open the valve and close it
when you get it to where you want it. Then the lengthen it, you
raise the 3 point open the valve and again close it once it where you
want it. Might be handy. But if I'm going to spend that kind of
money I think would get a real Hydraulic link. I have remote
Hydraulics on me 8N w/FEL and the 801. But anyone using one of
these. I'd be interested in how you like it?
Hydraulink Self Contained Toplink Cylinder

gears · Apr 14, 2014

Building one is on my list of things to do this summer. I've got a spare DAC lying under my bench I just need to come up with a simple valve (I like their pushbutton but may use a ball valve if that's all I can find in my parts bin) it looks pretty slick but I'm with you on power - it might be just as much work to put an electric over hyd pump on for activating/positioning that top link. That'd be just as portable from tractor to tractor so long as I have a quick disconnect power coupler.

Dean · Apr 14, 2014

I cannot imagine why anyone would buy one of those.

I paid less for my real hydraulic top link which is very useful when using some attachments.

Dean

gears · Apr 14, 2014

Dean, I'd only run it if I didn't have remote hyd. If you're running a TOH belt or stinger setup or LiveThang hydraulics then a full hyd top cyl is a good option. For those of us without remote hyd capabilities the rapid adjustment of the hydraulink is quite appealing $200 for easy adjustability versus the cost of live hyd and a DAC toplink.

Those are the reasons I can think of that someone might want one.

Ultradog MN · Apr 14, 2014

FD,
Just build one.
I've posted these photos here before but if you have remote hydraulics and can weld even a little it's easy.
I paid $25 for the cylinder on Craigslist and scrificed a top link ($25?) for the swivels.
I would never go back to a screw type.
You can not imagine how much more versatile it makes a boom pole or back blade.

Fuddy Duddy · Apr 14, 2014

I've seen the post on these here before. Seems like some one said something about you need a pivot valve or maybe a check valve built into it. I have never seen one that will work on our CL. Time you buy a new cylinder you just as well about to just buy a Hydraulic top link made for the job. I have found that one would be almost a must when using a dirt scoop. Yea, I can stick metal together. My Father was a Pipe Line welder and he taught me a thing or two. I've seen good. And I wouldn't make the claim to be a good one. But I have out welded some who did make that claim. Welders tend to like to brag a lots. But a lots can't make the grade.

Ultradog MN · Apr 15, 2014

Those <a href="http://www.yesterdaystractors.com/Ford-3000_Cylinder-Top-Link_HTL3101.html" target="_blank">top links</a> are about $300!
I did search on CL for a month or two for the right cylinder before I found this one. But did find a good one - practically new but had been kicking around for a few years. I don't have a pivot valve (or whatever it's called ) on mine.
I figure the highest pressure an implement would put on the system would only be a few hundred psi. The remote valve is made to handle 2500 psi. It works fine without it.
Yeah, welding questions always get a lot of replys. Not sure why. I rarely weigh in on them even though I was a good welder back in the day. Give me some Low-Hy and I can still glue things together pretty well, not as well as I used to but good enough.

Hydraulink Self Contained Toplink Cylinder

Fuddy Duddy

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gears

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Dean

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gears

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Ultradog MN

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Fuddy Duddy

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Ultradog MN

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