From what can be seen in the photo, it looks like a nice complete unit, it has a tailwheel, coulter and the share appears to be decent, you can see the tip of it. It almost looks like one of those older style, with that long point, not sure what you call those. Given that and compared to a new single bottom plow which will cost you $150-$200 more, but it may not have a coulter, a tail, gauge or furrow wheel, (depending on what people call those). The new one will be shear bolt protected, I believe the one in the photo is a rigid beam, nothing to trip, not protected from immovable objects when encountered. Thats the difference, + the age, the latter which is nothing. In that case, plowing sod, previously worked soil or areas clear of large rocks, roots or other similar things, it will work fine. If you have any of those in your ground, reduce your speed, often times it will stop the tractor, you lose traction. Also be cognizant of what you are running, an N with no front loader, weight up front etc. no rollover protection structure or seatbelt. Not an implement and tractor combination to try in soils that you will hook up with roots and rocks, though hard to figure with an implement on, that the front end can come up and it goes over backward, that would be a concern to me and I"d stay with clean ground. I have run an AO harry ferguson in places with some roots and stumps, rigid, non trip, it stopped the tractor, but I was going slow, low throttle. Also an 850 ford, ballast in the tires, and front end loader. Just some safety thoughts
The price is fair on that plow, I"d bring the truck, you may see something else, it gives you more room, sure you"ll spend a little in fuel, but its not cost prohibitive for an implement you may not otherwise find, pass on it, and you may have buyers remorse when it comes time to plant.
Single bottom is a nice implement to have, besides it being easier to set/adjust, they work nice, and are great for any larger garden. They make a great ditching tool, I ran a furrow from a wet area, where water comes up out of the ground, and literally in one pass to where the furrow ended, the water followed me out, no hand work, raise it up and go. Also for shallow burial of say a temp water line, electric or something.
I have a 110 Ford single bottom and it performs very well, I also have a 101 2 Ford 2 bottom, the single is really nice for breaking sod, I put a new rock share and shin on it, cleaned and lubed the coulter bearing, it also came with a gauge wheel, its for tractors without draft control, took it off and just set my lever, but it does work well if you need it. Coulter is nice for slicing the sod and any light trash on top, if you have an over grown area with weeds and such, mow, then plow, even after its dried and tanned up, you may accumulate trash just up over the moldboard, trash guard may help, or don"t mow first.
There are times my 850 ford, will struggle in deep heavy top soil that is root bound sod, a single bottom is all it can handle, but it easily recovers, just raise the lever a tad, then set back to where it was, (manual draft control LOL !) It seems when working in these conditions the gauge wheel, and sometimes even the coulter are best left off the plow. Other times not. Root bound sod, is much harder to deal with than previously worked soils, that"s where the 2 bottom 101 shines for me.
The best thing about this plow, is that it seems to align to my tractor almost perfectly, center of draft is established, and it rolls that sod completely over, meaning the results are what you want, and you know it when running the disc over it. My 101, I have yet to master, might just need moldboard extensions, so I do use the single more. You can drive up the furrow side rear wheel on your tractor, onto a 8" block, then level the plow front/back using the top link, side to side using the level box, and a small level set on the beam, then go, maybe a slight adjustment in the actual furrow, but not much, its that easy. (see photo) My 101 is more complicated for some reason, not much, but a little to get similar results when plowing, thats why I like the single so much, I can revert to it, the results are more important to get right and the 110 delivers on that every time, just takes longer.
I don"t think you will regret owning this one in the photo.
It will need to be scoured, (rust cleaned off), if it was used here, the soils would likely clean that off in a short distance, but you can get some sticking, overall, won"t take long to clean up, but if you have fine or soils that will stick or won"t scour it, you will have to do that by hand, wire wheel, flap disk, (don"t take a grinder wheel to it, use eye protection at all times), clean it up, eventually you will get it, then run it, it will polish up, and the soil will pass over it smoothly, a rusty one can pull harder in some soils, and load up until its scoured. When done plowing, clean it off, blow out the gaps with compressed air, (wear eye protection), scrap, brush it clean, then paint it with rustoleum, make sure its 60 degrees, dry etc, or you can smear a quality grease over it, though that can wash, the paint stays good a long time, my 101 has not been used in 2 years, outside, not a spec of rust in that white paint, whereas late last summer, as soon as I was done plowing my food plots, dew was present, I coated the 110 with grease, its showing a few small rust spots, which will come right off, I like the paint. TSC also sells a plow coat in a spray can I believe, I prefer rustoleum or a decent spray paint. You can see in the photo of the plow with a new share and shin, the moldboard is still white, it was painted in late 2011, so almost 2 years in the weather, and mind you, being late that year, it would be normally cold, can"t paint outside on metal, we just had a warm spell, and it did turn cold soon after, paint stuck though, polished right up immediately once in the soil.
Few shots of the 110 in use and or results. The first is plowing with the dead furrow at the bottom of slope, having to roll sod uphill, and you can see it will sink in, plow very deep if you want, it flopped over a lot of dirt on the last furrow, but you may not have any need to do that, no point in turning up subsoils. If I do that here, I will have clay on top, but this one will sink right in with a new share on, till it stops the tractor LOL ! So you draft control, tail wheel, or a gauge wheel can be important if you want to maintain a certain depth. I can do it by hand with the lever, the plow for the most part pulls so easily. In this garden patch, I am on a bit of a slope and the photos show the results with the single bottom, still turns the sod over completely even up a slight hill with no mold board extension, really does a nice job under less than desirable conditions.
My 110 is a 16", I put the rock share on it, seems to a little thicker, heavier etc. and it will do quite a bit, per the last photos, I have more than an acre done, maybe close to 2 with all the plots, and with all that, the share showed minimal wear so far. If that does take the later general purpose wear parts, Ford or Oliver, you should be able to get replacement parts, if that share is a type that a blacksmith could work on, take care of it when it needs to be done. It would be interesting to see what that model, (and it has a tag) calls for, parts are usually stamped with part numbers, but may or may not be visible until removed, or could be rusted obscuring the numbers. My 110 takes an oliver share, my 101 takes a ford share.
Don"t mind me, lengthy, I just like old implements, plows and such, have enjoyed the use of mine for both gardening and some nice food plots, one photo shows the results, a nice green forage patch.
Neon is work car. Is this the right plow for me? I know I could probably go a little bigger if I loaded the tires but do you think it is too small? Price? Any other questions I'm not thinking of or don't know to ask? Should I just scrap the whole plant corn idea and continue to mow? Would like to hear what everyone thinks.
