Thought that title might catch attention as everyone love to give advice or their opinion!! :lol:
New to the Forum and new to tractor ownership!! Couldn't start with just one... had to buy two.
Couple weeks ago I decided I needed a little tractor to run a brush hog on some property we own, maybe do some plowing. Tired of paying someone else to mow it, want to keep it up a little better, and want to increase the size of our garden from the raised beds in the back yard.
Craigslist netted me two tractors.
First one is a '47 2n. Half of it in boxes. Was a "restoration" project whose owner passed while in the process. Kids had no interest and no use for it.
Here is it's current state ( at least as I can tell so far): block has been re-sleeved to standard bore. Crank turned to 40 on mains, 30 on rods. New valves lapped and new guides installed. Oil pump rebuilt with new bushing and gears. Owner was in process and had crank and two of the piston/rods installed already. New bearings and rings of course. Got it greased up and wrapped in plastic. Remainder of parts in boxes as follows... new gasket set, carb has been cleaned and kitted, new fuel filters in all locations with new sediment bulb/cutoff, new distributor, (don't know why, the old one included is pretty solid) new points, coil, cap, wires , plugs, new alternator for 12 volt conversion with all the necessary parts to complete including wiring. New emblem for front, bushing and pin for front axle center, new steering wheel.
Tractor itself has new axle seals already installed, new pto seal and overrun adaptor on shaft, don't know yet if the hydraulic pump has been rebuilt or anything else done to the lift, but new gaskets on all access indicates he went through the whole thing.
The trans/rearend is currently clean and dry. Rear tires are ok, tin is all in good+ condition, and two new front tires were included.
The second tractor: 1950 8n side mount with a 12v conversion well done. Good rubber,(two fronts new again) excellent tin. Everything works including all the lights. Had not been run in at least two years. I started with draining fuel tank and carb, cleaning all the filters, and fresh gas. pulled the plugs and dribbled a little oil into each cylinder, turned it over to make sure it was free. New battery, and a quick dress of the points and it fired right up. Smoked a lot but I attributed that to the oil shot I gave it. They assured me the motor had been rebuilt several years ago. Pto kicks in, shaft turns, lift operates but "chatters" on the way up with no load. Drove it up on the trailer and was surprised to find good brakes both sides. Put them both on rear to rear offset and drug them home!
With all that said... I have a couple questions for you veterans.
On the 2n...PO went back with the old pistons. I don't think this was a "kit" but rather , he bought individual parts. What makes me think that? No new pistons, a brand new oversize ring set still in the box, and a brand new set of main and rod bearings in standard size still in the box. Never overhauled a tractor engine, but several cars and a truck, and I ALWAYS went back with new pistons, so this is "odd" to me. With new standard sleeves I guess it would work, but what do you guys think??
On the 8n... got it unloaded at the shop, power washed it, tinkered with a few things, and started in on the "prep" to put it to work. Oil in crankcase needs changed but not awful, oil in the air filter is dirty, but very fluid and not mud, so I think it has been somewhat maintained. Dipstick on rear gave me a beautiful caramel/mocha syrup so its definitely got water in it. Have a drain/drop/clean planned for that. Gonna replace the pto seal while I am at it. Axle seals are not leaking, brakes are good, so I will probably leave the rest alone. Think the lift might have some issues but we will see.
Question I had on the 8... the motor still smokes terribly. I have about a half hour of no load run time on it, and it didn't seem to want to clear up. Compression test gives me over 110 on all four. Starts with just a nudge on the starter, runs smooth.
I treated the cylinders with ATF after I did the compression check and while still warm. After about a week of setting I blew them out with cranking, reinstalled the plugs, started and let it run mid speed for a good bit. Still smokes like a train, blue oil smoke that will fill my shop in a heartbeat. Wanted to think rings... but the compression test makes me think not. I am wondering if valve guides (old chevy man) might be the issue. I did note that the number four cylinder had a plug extender on it like that plug oil fouled frequently. Looking at the plugs, and down the hole (I have the hood off and a temp lawnmower tank rigged up) the number 4 is the culprit. The other three are dry, both plugs and looking in the cylinders. 4 is WET!
Someone want to give an opinion?? Thoughts?? Suggestions??
I added some MMO to the crankcase oil and think I might hook it up to the brush hog and give it a workout before I do anything drastic. I would appreciate any comments!!
Sorry about the long winded post, but I wanted to get an intro done and ask some questions. I realize I could have bought a newer "better suited" jap tractor to do what I wanted , but that's just not how I roll. I believe in buying American, saving the old, and someone in my family has always had a little Ford, from my Grandad , to Uncles, to brothers, and even a sister had one once. I want to be able to tell my grandkids that this thing is older than me!! Thanks for your time!!!!!!!!
One last thing!!! Someone PLEASE post for the benefit of my wife??? I have $1578.00 in these tractors including gas. She thinks I got a fliederhosing!! I think I got a good deal.
New to the Forum and new to tractor ownership!! Couldn't start with just one... had to buy two.
Couple weeks ago I decided I needed a little tractor to run a brush hog on some property we own, maybe do some plowing. Tired of paying someone else to mow it, want to keep it up a little better, and want to increase the size of our garden from the raised beds in the back yard.
Craigslist netted me two tractors.
First one is a '47 2n. Half of it in boxes. Was a "restoration" project whose owner passed while in the process. Kids had no interest and no use for it.
Here is it's current state ( at least as I can tell so far): block has been re-sleeved to standard bore. Crank turned to 40 on mains, 30 on rods. New valves lapped and new guides installed. Oil pump rebuilt with new bushing and gears. Owner was in process and had crank and two of the piston/rods installed already. New bearings and rings of course. Got it greased up and wrapped in plastic. Remainder of parts in boxes as follows... new gasket set, carb has been cleaned and kitted, new fuel filters in all locations with new sediment bulb/cutoff, new distributor, (don't know why, the old one included is pretty solid) new points, coil, cap, wires , plugs, new alternator for 12 volt conversion with all the necessary parts to complete including wiring. New emblem for front, bushing and pin for front axle center, new steering wheel.
Tractor itself has new axle seals already installed, new pto seal and overrun adaptor on shaft, don't know yet if the hydraulic pump has been rebuilt or anything else done to the lift, but new gaskets on all access indicates he went through the whole thing.
The trans/rearend is currently clean and dry. Rear tires are ok, tin is all in good+ condition, and two new front tires were included.
The second tractor: 1950 8n side mount with a 12v conversion well done. Good rubber,(two fronts new again) excellent tin. Everything works including all the lights. Had not been run in at least two years. I started with draining fuel tank and carb, cleaning all the filters, and fresh gas. pulled the plugs and dribbled a little oil into each cylinder, turned it over to make sure it was free. New battery, and a quick dress of the points and it fired right up. Smoked a lot but I attributed that to the oil shot I gave it. They assured me the motor had been rebuilt several years ago. Pto kicks in, shaft turns, lift operates but "chatters" on the way up with no load. Drove it up on the trailer and was surprised to find good brakes both sides. Put them both on rear to rear offset and drug them home!
With all that said... I have a couple questions for you veterans.
On the 2n...PO went back with the old pistons. I don't think this was a "kit" but rather , he bought individual parts. What makes me think that? No new pistons, a brand new oversize ring set still in the box, and a brand new set of main and rod bearings in standard size still in the box. Never overhauled a tractor engine, but several cars and a truck, and I ALWAYS went back with new pistons, so this is "odd" to me. With new standard sleeves I guess it would work, but what do you guys think??
On the 8n... got it unloaded at the shop, power washed it, tinkered with a few things, and started in on the "prep" to put it to work. Oil in crankcase needs changed but not awful, oil in the air filter is dirty, but very fluid and not mud, so I think it has been somewhat maintained. Dipstick on rear gave me a beautiful caramel/mocha syrup so its definitely got water in it. Have a drain/drop/clean planned for that. Gonna replace the pto seal while I am at it. Axle seals are not leaking, brakes are good, so I will probably leave the rest alone. Think the lift might have some issues but we will see.
Question I had on the 8... the motor still smokes terribly. I have about a half hour of no load run time on it, and it didn't seem to want to clear up. Compression test gives me over 110 on all four. Starts with just a nudge on the starter, runs smooth.
I treated the cylinders with ATF after I did the compression check and while still warm. After about a week of setting I blew them out with cranking, reinstalled the plugs, started and let it run mid speed for a good bit. Still smokes like a train, blue oil smoke that will fill my shop in a heartbeat. Wanted to think rings... but the compression test makes me think not. I am wondering if valve guides (old chevy man) might be the issue. I did note that the number four cylinder had a plug extender on it like that plug oil fouled frequently. Looking at the plugs, and down the hole (I have the hood off and a temp lawnmower tank rigged up) the number 4 is the culprit. The other three are dry, both plugs and looking in the cylinders. 4 is WET!
Someone want to give an opinion?? Thoughts?? Suggestions??
I added some MMO to the crankcase oil and think I might hook it up to the brush hog and give it a workout before I do anything drastic. I would appreciate any comments!!
Sorry about the long winded post, but I wanted to get an intro done and ask some questions. I realize I could have bought a newer "better suited" jap tractor to do what I wanted , but that's just not how I roll. I believe in buying American, saving the old, and someone in my family has always had a little Ford, from my Grandad , to Uncles, to brothers, and even a sister had one once. I want to be able to tell my grandkids that this thing is older than me!! Thanks for your time!!!!!!!!
One last thing!!! Someone PLEASE post for the benefit of my wife??? I have $1578.00 in these tractors including gas. She thinks I got a fliederhosing!! I think I got a good deal.
