timing tool

Do I have the timing tool on correct? And if I understand the procedure I move the breaker plate, tighten screw, remove the timing tool and when I rotate the distributor in the firing rotation the points should just start to open. If not move the breaker plate some more. Is this how it's done.

The first thing you need to check is bushing wear. If the shaft has any sideways movement AT ALL, the bushings must be replaced. If you are using quality points and cannot get the gap to pen to .015, chances are you need to replace the bushings.

It appears (barely) that the wide side of the shaft is on the left in the your pic w/ the jig; if so, then everything is correct.

Use a meter or light to check for the points opening.

Remember, each one of those little hash marks represents about 4° of timing. Keep adjusting until you get the proper ¼" setting. (if the plate won’t move, you might need to remove the big C clip to loosen it a bit) As you’re adjusting, eliminate backlash by turning the shaft backwards (CW as viewed from the front) and bring the shaft forward (CCW as viewed from the front) to measure your setting. This ¼" setting will get you static timing at top dead center.

As you can see from the picture, this particular distributor needed to have the timing advanced by about 8° (two hash marks) to achieve the ¼” measurement.

After you set the points & timing, do a continuity check before you put the distributor back on the tractor.


75 Tips

(quoted from post at 16:07:27 02/17/14) Do I have the timing tool on correct? And if I understand the procedure I move the breaker plate, tighten screw, remove the timing tool and when I rotate the distributor in the firing rotation the points should just start to open. If not move the breaker plate some more. Is this how it's done.

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Your distributor is currently clamped at the proper firing angle right now. All you need do is adjust base plate until points just begin to open and tighten screw.

TOH

There"s very little movement of the points when moving the
timing. A fine line between open and close. Is this correct?

Yes.

Which is why I said " Use a meter or light to check for the points opening."

Thanks Bruce. I checked and I didn't have the wide side of the tang to the left. I rotated it and clamped back down and the points do open further when advancing the timing.Once I learn how to do this hopefully it'll stay in my mind for future repairs.

(quoted from post at 16:46:26 02/20/14) Thanks Bruce. I checked and I didn't have the wide side of the tang to the left. I rotated it and clamped back down and the points do open further when advancing the timing.Once I learn how to do this hopefully it'll stay in my mind for future repairs.

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our picture sure looks like you had the wide side on the left! You do realize that we are talking about the wide side of the shaft don't you? There is no wide tang.... it is simply offset to one side of the shaft centerline. When setting up, you have the shaft clamped in position by the fixture & are rotating the breaker plate to 'just achieve' point opening . Rotating breaker plate CW (as viewed from the front) to achieve that opening of points.

(quoted from post at 13:07:27 02/17/14) Do I have the timing tool on correct? And if I understand the procedure I move the breaker plate, tighten screw, remove the timing tool and when I rotate the distributor in the firing rotation the points should just start to open. If not move the breaker plate some more. Is this how it's done.

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OK. 1: where can I find a timing tool? 2: once I set the timing rotor shaft with the tool, how do I align the crankshaft to fit with that same setting?