Starter Switch

A few years back I put a new starter switch on the ol'girl (2N). Over time it became harder and harder, and finally just lucky, to get the starter switch to engage. I am about to order a new one, but first wanted to see if it was reasonable these things would wear out so quickly on a very infrequently used tractor. I can say that after taking it off, did get current continuity when pushing manually (at about 3/4 inch). Also, the linkage from the saftey starter seems to be alright. I'm wondering if the problem is with the starter switch, or if there is some reason the linkage is no longer pushing the starter button down far enough.

Any suggestions would be very welcomed.
 
Take a look at the top of the button on the old starter switch.
I have seen them get dented or worn off by the linkage.
Then they just don't push far enough to start.
Specially happens with new ones. They don't seem to be as strong.

If that's the problem, you can built it up, solder a washer onto
it etc to make it longer enough to push again for a while.
A new one's not too expensive either, but this may help with
knowing what the cause is so you're not left wondering.
 
When I check switches like what your talking about I use an
Analog meter and slowly press in button...some times i,ll see
where switch is bad because meter will flicker during actuation
...if you press it fast and all the way till it bottoms out you may
get a false sence of it being good... Just my .02c worth ....
 
J,
Just a thought, double check and clean all battery connections, especially the battery to ground. Had trouble with that a few years ago.
Have also disassembled an original starter switch on a 2N. I cut it apart and found a silver dollar sized copper disc that was pushed against two contacts. Cleaned the disc and contacts and wire feed welded the switch back together. It has worked well since then. HTH
Mr. T. Minnesota
 
Royse, I am throwing this to you as I am not sure if I am reading it right. If you depress the thumb button in neutral does it not also move a rocker to push a rod into another starter button all of which is hidden inside the steering tower. If the rocker is wore down or the 2nd hidden starter button may be at fault?
 
That's the way the linkage works on the 9N/2N.
The actual switch is not really hidden, it's in front of the steering
tower under the battery where the battery cables hook onto it.
It's held in by two bolts. The "button" on that switch, toward the
rear of the tractor as mounted, reminds me of the older floor board
mounted headlight dimmer switches.
It is the top of that button (that you would step on if it were a dimmer)
that I was saying I have seen worn out. One completely through.
I have seen guys post here about worn out linkage too.
I have not ran into that personally, but all mechanical things wear.
 
I had a 46 that the rocker went out on it appeared a slow process, and he said he had a new push button and slowly gave up. I was able to find a used rocker at N Complete $40! I had to swallow it cause I couldn't find one anywhere.
 
(quoted from post at 21:08:45 02/12/14) That's the way the linkage works on the 9N/2N.
The actual switch is not really hidden, it's in front of the steering
tower under the battery where the battery cables hook onto it.
It's held in by two bolts. The "button" on that switch, toward the
rear of the tractor as mounted, reminds me of the older floor board
mounted headlight dimmer switches.
It is the top of that button (that you would step on if it were a dimmer)
that I was saying I have seen worn out. One completely through.
I have seen guys post here about worn out linkage too.
I have not ran into that personally, but all mechanical things wear.
mvphoto3524.jpg
 

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