Picture Thread - What Implements Do You Use on Your 8n?

(quoted from post at 09:55:53 02/11/14)
Good luck with farming -- have you ever "birthed"
a calf?! Sounds like a challenge.

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(quoted from post at 11:31:39 02/11/14) I am a new 8n owner and first time tractor buyer.

I have 12 acres of totally unimproved land with a mix of oaks and cedar, some thick, some open, and a soil condition that ranges from sandy loam to rocky.

I want to improve conditions such that I can plant a food plot for the family as well as learn to be a good grass farmer in and for the benefit of the bred red angus cow that is due in April.

Not having EVER done anything like this before, I am experiencing a huge learning curve and am interested in what implements you guys have successfully utilized behind (or in front) of your 8n.

From reading the 75 tips....it sounds like a tiller is out .....

Despite the reported 800 lb. rear weight limit....I see pics on-line of 1200 lb round bales on a rear spear....?

What do you run? Type and length (5', 6') ?

Post pics or links if you can....

Thanks!

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(quoted from post at 11:31:39 02/11/14)

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(quoted from post at 12:55:50 02/11/14)

(quoted from post at 11:31:39 02/11/14)

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Where are you located in Texas??

I am Northwest of Dallas ..

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(quoted from post at 11:30:58 02/11/14) .......the advice: do NOT try & do all of it in the first year. I've got former city-dweller neighbors around here, all w/ the best of intentions, who just plant too much, get way too much livestock & then get overwhelmed. And just can not keep there equipment running either.........

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(quoted from post at 05:50:54 02/12/14) A couple of thoughts here.
He really doesn't need an ORC untill he buys a brush/rotary mower. Doesn't need one for any other type of mower or pto device. And he should really get a 5' brush mower not a 4'.
If you buy the ORC like the one below then it goes on and off easily. Just push the button and pull it off.
This style costs a bit more but is safer than having the orc on all the time because a guy is in too much of a hurry to take it off each time.

<img src="http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h56/Ultradog/QDOVERRUNNING.jpg">

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(quoted from post at 18:54:59 02/11/14) A tiller is not out _if_ you use it in the soil type you describe _and_ it has been well worked in previous years. Just take your time and be patient with the machine's limitations. We have a lot of sandy loam in our area and there are vegetable farmers here that use tillers on Ns.

I'm also a grass farmer - rotationally graze sheep, as well as raise poultry & organic vegetables. Email me if you want to talk shop off board.

I use a pallet fork to move loads around the farm. It also acts as a bale spear. The N can handle a light round bale.

My equipment list is much too short, but here's what I have:

6ft back blade (unknown make)
5ft BMI brush mower
6.5ft KingKutter tandem disk
2 btm Dearborn plow
2 row Dearborn cultivator/Digger
Homemade pallet fork

Colin, MN

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(quoted from post at 07:47:57 02/12/14) IMHO....stay away from a 3-point tiller on an N. I got one because it was a deal ($300) and I use it on a tractor capable of a 540 rpm pto speed w/ a sloooow ground speed.

What do you men by "grass farming"? Grass in a pasture for cattle? Plenty of folks can around here can help you w/ that, and a lot of them are in TX (hey JMOR, speak up!)

I'm sure your location will play a big part of 'grass farming', but around here, all they do is get a good stand of whatever they plant (and they argue about what's best) and then never do anything more to it than fertilizer & lime.

As to veggie farming.....

A single or double plow, a disc & a 2-row cultivator. And a hoe. Hand held.

Got kids at home? Get each one of them a hoe.

Plow in the fall, disc it up & plant a cover crop. (rye)

Disc the rye under when it's about a foot tall in the spring. Wait 2-3 weeks & then start planting.....depending on your last frost date.

I've been dropping seed by hand now for the last 42 years. My neighbor uses a little planter; I never had much luck w/ them. I do have a 3-point Cole planter that I will sometimes use for black-eyed peas, but rarely.

Look at it this way.....

If you need a mechanical seeder to plant, you must be growing for a market, have 10 kids.....or you are planting waaay too much!

BTW, how do you plan on irrigating your veggies?

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(quoted from post at 11:31:39 02/11/14) I am a new 8n owner and first time tractor buyer.

I have 12 acres of totally unimproved land with a mix of oaks and cedar, some thick, some open, and a soil condition that ranges from sandy loam to rocky.

I want to improve conditions such that I can plant a food plot for the family as well as learn to be a good grass farmer in and for the benefit of the bred red angus cow that is due in April.

Not having EVER done anything like this before, I am experiencing a huge learning curve and am interested in what implements you guys have successfully utilized behind (or in front) of your 8n.

From reading the 75 tips....it sounds like a tiller is out .....

Despite the reported 800 lb. rear weight limit....I see pics on-line of 1200 lb round bales on a rear spear....?

What do you run? Type and length (5', 6') ?

Post pics or links if you can....

Thanks!

Click to expand...

(quoted from post at 07:29:15 02/12/14)

Well that's what I was wondering...

Seems like I would be doing much better to get a two bottom plow and go deep the first year, then every few years following that, then a disc for garden prep and garden till down following harvest.

Then for grass farming, just a disc.

Not sure what I need for actual seed PLANTING however...

Seems like what I would need for grass would not be the same for veggie.

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(quoted from post at 08:25:49 02/12/14)

(quoted from post at 07:29:15 02/12/14)

Well that's what I was wondering...

Seems like I would be doing much better to get a two bottom plow and go deep the first year, then every few years following that, then a disc for garden prep and garden till down following harvest.

Then for grass farming, just a disc.

Not sure what I need for actual seed PLANTING however...

Seems like what I would need for grass would not be the same for veggie.

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I use a self modified (cut down 4 row) 2 row corn planter that I failed to list in my first reply to plant corn, peas and beans. For grass there are several options. You can buy pretty cheap and hand held broadcast seeder that is hand crank. A larger one that will mount of your N and is PTO driven and possibly you county age extension office may rent seeders for grass.

The wife plants all other seed by hand for the garden. I have a grain drill with a grass seeder box for bigger stuff but it's too big for the N.

Bruce is 100% correct that a tiller will make hardpan. When I got rid of the tiller and went back to mow board plowing I wound up getting the sub-soiler . It was hard enough that the plow wouldn't break through it.

The cheap plastic push veggie seeders don't seem to work well. We tried one. The more expensive ones do work but are priced way up there.

We are not organic but sustainable. Basically that means no GMO's. Animals can be treated with meds if, but only if needed. No feeding antibiotics to them all just because. Minimum chemical applications only as needed. That is for both poisons and fertilizer.

As far as cows are concerned I raise grass fed. They pasture (rotational grazing in the summer) and hay in the winter. Most farmers don't want to waste any hay as they see it. I feed round bales on the ground. The waste is turned into a manure pack by the cows that stays warm from the bottom of it starting to decay that the cows will lay on to stay warm. In the spring they are cleaned up and spread on the fields. I pasture raise feeder pigs and the wife has chickens for eggs and is starting raising some for meat in the spring.

The biggest reason for us not being organic is that in our state that means they can basically walk in with no warning to inspect. Personally I think the government is intrusive enough as it is. I've got nothing to hide but I'm not giving them blanket access.

Rick

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(quoted from post at 09:29:28 02/12/14) I've seen the plastic mulch a lots in fields. I can understand how it would help retain moisture. But what I don't understand is that it seems it would also repel rain water. Does drip irrigation have to also be used? Most every summer we pretty much have a drought for a couple months or so. I try to keep the plants going the best I can with a hose. Can you use a hose with plastic mulch? Also my well doesn't produce much water. So we really have a time trying to grow a small garden, washing clothes, and taking showers. Have to keep jugs by the tub in case you get all lathered up and there is no water to rinse.
So we need to retain ground moisture if possible.

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(quoted from post at 08:58:30 02/12/14)

(quoted from post at 08:25:49 02/12/14)

(quoted from post at 07:29:15 02/12/14)

Well that's what I was wondering...

Seems like I would be doing much better to get a two bottom plow and go deep the first year, then every few years following that, then a disc for garden prep and garden till down following harvest.

Then for grass farming, just a disc.

Not sure what I need for actual seed PLANTING however...

Seems like what I would need for grass would not be the same for veggie.

Click to expand...

I use a self modified (cut down 4 row) 2 row corn planter that I failed to list in my first reply to plant corn, peas and beans. For grass there are several options. You can buy pretty cheap and hand held broadcast seeder that is hand crank. A larger one that will mount of your N and is PTO driven and possibly you county age extension office may rent seeders for grass.

The wife plants all other seed by hand for the garden. I have a grain drill with a grass seeder box for bigger stuff but it's too big for the N.

Bruce is 100% correct that a tiller will make hardpan. When I got rid of the tiller and went back to mow board plowing I wound up getting the sub-soiler . It was hard enough that the plow wouldn't break through it.

The cheap plastic push veggie seeders don't seem to work well. We tried one. The more expensive ones do work but are priced way up there.

We are not organic but sustainable. Basically that means no GMO's. Animals can be treated with meds if, but only if needed. No feeding antibiotics to them all just because. Minimum chemical applications only as needed. That is for both poisons and fertilizer.

As far as cows are concerned I raise grass fed. They pasture (rotational grazing in the summer) and hay in the winter. Most farmers don't want to waste any hay as they see it. I feed round bales on the ground. The waste is turned into a manure pack by the cows that stays warm from the bottom of it starting to decay that the cows will lay on to stay warm. In the spring they are cleaned up and spread on the fields. I pasture raise feeder pigs and the wife has chickens for eggs and is starting raising some for meat in the spring.

The biggest reason for us not being organic is that in our state that means they can basically walk in with no warning to inspect. Personally I think the government is intrusive enough as it is. I've got nothing to hide but I'm not giving them blanket access.

Rick

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This absolutely nails what I am trying to do. Posts before and the one after do as well.

THANK YOU GUYS!

I am just wanting to learn how to work with what I have to create good yields with minimal or no chemicals, meds only when necessary, and sustainable practices...

Trying to learn how I can use pigs, chickens and sheep to do work for me.....

This is great info and great encouragement....

I never thought I would be getting this here....

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