sleeve puller

Any Advice of sleeve puller for 631 (134 cid)?

Check out TOH's stuff

I have had good luck machining up a puck that is .005 smaller than the out side diameter. Then I machine a step that is about 0.003 smaller than the inside diameter and about 0.050 inch deep. Drill a hole for a 1/2 inch theaded rod. Put the theaded rod through the hole and lock it to the puck with two nuts. I push it up through the cylinder and use a couple pieces of steel with a cross piece sitting across them . thread the rod through the hole in the cross piece and then place a nut on the top. As you tighten the nut the rod will pull the puck upward and the sleeve with it.
Hope this helps. I would be happy to try and answer any questions you might have.

I checked out the link for TOH, some interesting equipment and reasonably priced too!

(quoted from post at 23:31:57 01/29/14) Any Advice of sleeve puller for 631 (134 cid)?

Click to expand...

In frame or on the stand?

If on the stand this is my $59 solution in action:

Ford 134 CID Sleeve Driver

If in-frame the $129 solution. Both come with a nice fitted wood storage box ;-)

TOH

Just a silly question TOH. but do you have a shaper or keysetter?

(quoted from post at 10:38:39 01/30/14)

(quoted from post at 23:31:57 01/29/14) Any Advice of sleeve puller for 631 (134 cid)?

Click to expand...

In frame or on the stand?

If on the stand this is my $59 solution in action:

Ford 134 CID Sleeve Driver

If in-frame the $129 solution. Both come with a nice fitted wood storage box ;-)

TOH

Click to expand...

I have a sleeve pulled made by TOH and it works great. However, if you are going to take the block to a machine shop to have boiled out or other work doe I would suggest you have them remove the existing sleeves and install the new sleeves. The cost of a puller to do one job is not worth it. In addition there is some expertise needed to install sleeves correctly.

(quoted from post at 09:52:39 01/30/14) Just a silly question TOH. but do you have a shaper or keysetter?

Click to expand...

Not yet :roll: A keyseater is on my bucket list but finding one at an affordable price and close enough to me to pick up hasn't happened yet. I have a set of DuMont push broaches for keying hubs and I popped for a couple rotary broach tool holders (top picture) for blind broaching jobs. Very pricey and work great for socket forms like Torx, polygons, or small splines but they don't have the oomph to remove enough steel for anything other than tiny rectangular keyways. For blind keyways in hubs I currently do it the old fashion way - bottom picture. I use a series of repeated plunge cuts with a homemade tool holder and hand ground HSS bit in the vertical spindle of the mill. Patience is a virtue (.005 -.007 DOC) - broken bits really slow production down :shock: I crank the knee up and down by hand and it's better than curls for developing forearms and biceps ;-)

TOH

Not very professional I guess but I've done lots of them over the years with no tools to spead of.

I do have a couple of "pucks" I've fabricated by cutting out a circle in 3/8" plate and then grinding them down on a bench grinder till they one will fall into the bore and the other one fall into the ID of the sleeve. Then I cut about 3/4" inch off both sides of each puck and then weld them together where they were cut keeping them centered while welding. They don't even have a hole in them. I turn the engine upside down even with the crankshast still in plsce sometimes and drive the sleeves out with long heavy drift of 1" round stock with the crank turned so it can't hit the journals.

Then there is another way that I've used many times and that is to lay the engine on it's side and with a 6011 1/8" rod make a couple of cold welds on the ID of the sleeve and wait till it cools then you can just knoch them out with s big screwdriver because the weld beads will shrink them enough to loosen them

Then there is another way to pull them and install them with liquid propane. I have a fitting that will fit the 20 pound bottle. Just invert the bottle and squirt the liquid propane into the sleeve with a wad of rags in the bottom to trap the propane and with enough propane you can easily knock out the sleevee or using the same procedure they will almost fall into the bore when installing the new sleeves.

Do the propane outside away from any source of a spark or flame. Way away! It is dangerous to say the least but sure goes together easy. No need to try to find dry ice etc.

Zane