Yesterday's Tractor Co. We Have the Tractor Parts You Need
Click Here or call 800-853-2651 
   Allis Chalmers Case Farmall IH Ford 8N,9N,2N Ford
   Ferguson John Deere Massey Ferguson Minn. Moline Oliver
 
Marketplace
Tractor Manuals
Tractor Parts
Classified Ads
Photo Ads

Community
Discussion Forums
Project Journals
Tractor Town
Your Stories
Show & Pull Guide
Events Calendar
Hauling Schedule

Galleries
Tractor Photos
Implement Photos
Vintage Photos
Help Identify
Parts & Pieces
Stuck & Troubled
Vintage Ads
Community Album
Photo Ad Archives

Research & Info
Articles
Tractor Registry
Tip of the Day
Safety Cartoons
Tractor Values
Serial Numbers
Tune-Up Guide
Paint Codes
List Prices
Production Nbrs
Tune-Up Specs
Torque Values
3-Point Specs
Glossary

Miscellaneous
Tractor Games
Just For Kids
Virtual Show
Museum Guide
Memorial Page
Feedback Form

Yesterday's Tractors Facebook Page

Related Sites
Tractor Shed
TractorLinks.com
Ford 8N/9N Club
Today's Tractors
Garden Tractors
Classic Trucks
Kountry Life
Enter your email address to receive our newsletter!

subscribe
unsubscribe
  
Ford 9N, 2N & 8N Discussion Forum
Show Parts for Model:

No spark (update)

Author  [Modern View]
BrianLivingstone

01-10-2014 14:41:01
198.254.147.44



Report to Moderator

46 2n with 12 volt conversion.
So I replaced the starter and since then -no spark Some info I posted last night about voltage was incorrect because of how I checked it. My apologies Currently it turns over well and I have 12.2 volts at the coil I removed the distributor today and found the points pitted so I replaced them and set the gap at .015.
Still no spark so not sure where to go next.
Any more advice is appreciated.
Brian

[Reply]   [No Email]
Royse

01-11-2014 16:28:27
69.36.49.186



Report to Moderator
 Re: No spark (update) in reply to BrianLivingstone, 01-10-2014 14:41:01  
You're quite welcome!

If you don't have a hand crank and the starter rolls too fast, you can also
put it in high gear and roll it with the rear tire to bump the engine over.
That's not a very smooth method, but it will turn the engine.



[Reply]  [No Email]
BrianLivingstone

01-11-2014 16:23:47
198.254.147.44



Report to Moderator
 Re: No spark (update) in reply to ZANE, 01-10-2014 14:41:01  
Thanks Royce



[Reply]  [No Email]
Royse

01-11-2014 16:08:29
69.36.49.186



Report to Moderator
 Re: No spark (update) in reply to BrianLivingstone, 01-10-2014 14:41:01  
I put a hand crank in the front of the engine and turn it over by hand.

You can roll it over with the starter. It will be harder to see with a
12 volt system because it rolls faster, but you should still see it flash.



[Reply]  [No Email]
Mr. T. Minnesota

01-10-2014 21:38:43
68.170.114.158



Report to Moderator
 Re: No spark (update) in reply to BrianLivingstone, 01-10-2014 14:41:01  
B,
As Bruce noted, the more you spin the engine, the lower the voltage to the ignition. That is one reason I am going back to a magneto on my N up north. Will keep the starter with either 6 or go to 12 volts. Expect it to work!!
Mr. T. Minnesota



[Reply]  [No Email]
BrianLivingstone

01-10-2014 19:15:58
198.254.147.44



Report to Moderator
 Re: No spark (update) in reply to BrianLivingstone, 01-10-2014 14:41:01  
Thanks for the tips . Looks like I have a project for the weekend. Would like to get it running before the snow falls again
Brian



[Reply]  [No Email]
Bruce (VA)

01-10-2014 18:07:10
24.125.183.11



Report to Moderator
 Re: No spark (update) in reply to BrianLivingstone, 01-10-2014 14:41:01  
Before you check anything else, make sure you have the correct voltage at the top of the coil. It should be battery voltage w/ the points open & about half that w/ the points closed.

Next, make sure your battery is fully charged.

Don't guess; put it on a charger.

You need a strong battery to:

1. Close the solenoid

2. Spin the starter

3. Engage the bendix

4. Provide voltage to the coil.

As the battery gets weaker, the first thing to fail is your spark. If the battery is almost totally dead, all you will hear is the solenoid clicking.

The more current you use to spin the starter, the less you have for the ignition.

Assuming that the bushings & advance weights are ok*, & that you have correct voltage to the coil, the most common electrical failure (no spark, weak spark) points on the frontmount are:

The insulator under the brass concave head screw & where the copper strip attaches. (it’s fiber & will wear out; poke & prod w/ your meter leads to make sure it still works)

The pigtail at the bottom of the coil not making contact w/ the concave head brass screw inside the distributor. (With the coil on, the pigtail must firmly contact the brass screw. No contact = no spark.

The copper strip is broken or grounded to the plate. (look very carefully for cracks & breaks)

The condenser wire grounding to the plate or side of the distributor.

The tab on the bottom of the coil not making contact w/ the brass button on the cap. (With the cap on, the tab must firmly contact the brass button. No contact = no spark.)

Incorrect positioning of the spring clip on the plate causing the pigtail to ground. (the open part of the clip goes between 7 & 9 o’clock on the plate. That puts the straight part of the clip opposite of the timing screw at 3 o’clock)

Incorrect seating of the coil on the distributor due to a loose bail or no gasket.(the coil must not move at all; if it does, replace the gasket or bail. Or stick some cardboard under the bail).

Water/moisture inside the cap due to gasket failure or the absence of a gasket. (the cap AND coil have gaskets)

Dirty/corroded/burned/incorrectly gapped or misaligned points.

Burned rotor, cracked/carbon tracked cap.

Unless the coil is cracked or shows a dead short, chances are it's fine; square coils rarely fail cold. Pull the distributor & do a continuity check.

First, make sure your meter/light works (don't ask....)

You can change points everyday & it will not fix bad bushings. If you are having trouble w/ points failure, check the shaft. If you detect movement, it needs new bushings. If you are using QUALITY** points and can not get the gap open to .015, replace the bushings.

Inspect the points; if they are pitted or burned, replace them. Next, dress the points by running a piece of card stock or brown paper bag through them. New points sometimes have an anti-corrosive dielectric coating on them & old points can corrode or pick up grease from a dirty feeler gauge or excessive cam lubricant. Make sure the points align correctly. Proper alignment is also critical to longevity. Look at the points when they are closed; both sides should mate evenly. Then, check the gap at .015 on the high point of all 4 cam lobes.

Now, follow these steps:

1. Coil off, cap off, points open. One probe on the brass screw & the other on both sides of the open points. On the side closest to the cam, you should have continuity. Not on the other side! If you do, you will also have continuity everywhere because the points are grounded.

2. Coil off, cap off, points open. One probe on the brass screw & the other anywhere on the body of the distributor. You should have no continuity! Now, rotate the tang on the distributor....as the points open & close, you have continuity (closed) and lose it when they open.

3. Coil on, cap off, points open. One probe on the lead on the top of the coil, the other on the cam side of the open points. You should have continuity!

4. Coil on, cap off, points open. One probe on the lead on the top of the coil, the other anywhere on the body of the distributor. You should have no continuity!

At this point, I just put the distributor, coil & cap all back on the tractor as a unit. The reason I do this is because it is real easy to get the cap or coil mis-aligned trying to put it back together one piece at a time & the result is something gets broken or you get a ‘no spark’ problem.

It's possible to put it back on wrong & break it. Look at the slot on the end of the cam shaft. What ever angle it happens to be, turn the distributor tang to match it. Make sure you can tell the wide side from the narrow side on both the cam & distributor! (close counts) Then place the distributor on the front of the engine, gently push it in place & slowly turn the distributor body until you feel the tang slip into the slot. Rotate the distributor body until the bolt holes line up. Then, hand tighten the two bolts until the distributor body is flush w/ the timing gear cover.

Finally, double check your firing order & plug wires. It’s 1-2-4-3, counterclockwise. It’s very easy to cross 3 & 4.

Post back w/ results & any other questions.

*Unscrew the plate hold down screw & remove the C clip to get the plate out. Remove the shaft & weights. The weights should freely move.

** Wells, Echlin, Blue Streak or CNH.

[Reply]  [No Email]
old

01-10-2014 15:15:57
209.86.226.56



Report to Moderator
 Re: No spark (update) in reply to BrianLivingstone, 01-10-2014 14:41:01  
Many new points have a protective coating on them that need cleaned off or they will not conduct power and if they do not make and break power you have no spark. So with the points closed do you have battery voltage at the coil wire?? If you do then the points are not conducting power. Point open battery volts points closes a good bit less then battery volts



[Reply]  [No Email]
Royse

01-10-2014 14:44:28
69.36.49.186



Report to Moderator
 Re: No spark (update) in reply to BrianLivingstone, 01-10-2014 14:41:01  
You should have battery voltage at the coil when the points are open.

It should drop considerably when the points are closed.

Exact value would depend on your coil and resistor(s).

If it does not drop when the points are closed you still have
something wrong in the distributor.

You could use a test light to the coil and you should see it blink

when you roll the engine over slowly.

[Reply]  [No Email]
BrianLivingstone

01-11-2014 16:01:23
198.254.147.44



Report to Moderator
 Re: No spark (update) in reply to Royse, 01-10-2014 14:44:28  
Royce . How do I "roll the engine over slowly"
Brian



[Reply]  [No Email]
[Options]  [Printer Friendly]  [Return to Forum]   [Add a Reply]

Hop to:
TRACTOR   PARTS TRACTOR   MANUALS
Same-Day Shipping! Most of our stocked parts ship the same day you order (M-F).  Expedited shipping available, just call!  Most prices for parts and manuals are below our competitors.  Compare our super low shipping rates!  We have the parts you need to repair your tractor.  We are a Company you can trust and have generous return policies!   Shop Online Today or call our friendly sales staff toll free (800) 853-2651. [ More Info ]

Home  |  Forums


Copyright © 1997-2014 Yesterday's Tractor Co.

All Rights Reserved. Reproduction of any part of this website, including design and content, without written permission is strictly prohibited. Trade Marks and Trade Names contained and used in this Website are those of others, and are used in this Website in a descriptive sense to refer to the products of others. Use of this Web site constitutes acceptance of our User Agreement and Privacy Policy

TRADEMARK DISCLAIMER: Tradenames and Trademarks referred to within Yesterday's Tractor Co. products and within the Yesterday's Tractor Co. websites are the property of their respective trademark holders. None of these trademark holders are affiliated with Yesterday's Tractor Co., our products, or our website nor are we sponsored by them. John Deere and its logos are the registered trademarks of the John Deere Corporation. Agco, Agco Allis, White, Massey Ferguson and their logos are the registered trademarks of AGCO Corporation. Case, Case-IH, Farmall, International Harvester, New Holland and their logos are registered trademarks of CNH Global N.V.

Yesterday's Tractors - Antique Tractor Headquarters