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Ford 9N, 2N & 8N Discussion Forum
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2n project

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Author  [Modern View]

12-25-2013 04:53:13

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I have this 2n.The trans can not be shifted, the wheels turn assuming it is in neutral. Soaking the cylinders.I really have a project!Has anyone done this before?It sat outside for maybe 10 years. Where do I start, or take apart? I can not find anything in the arcives. Thanks

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arnold z

12-25-2013 08:42:38

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 Re: 2n project in reply to slifnom, 12-25-2013 04:53:13  
Something else to think about, more important than how long it has sat, is what did it do before it sat? It may have been rebuilt a year before it was parked, or ran out of compression and died right where it sat. History helps.

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12-25-2013 08:09:17

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 Re: 2n project in reply to slifnom, 12-25-2013 04:53:13  
Soaking the cylinders with what?? I hope it is ATF your using since it seem to work the best or at least it ha for me for decades. As for the transmission #1 drain it out and if your where it is cold good chance you got water/ice in it BTDT and have that problem with my 841 right now due to ice. Then after it has drain take the top off and pour ATF all over the insides and do that a few times for say a week. I have had more then one N series that had that problem and on one all it took was running it for a while to splash the oil around.

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12-25-2013 07:18:30

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 Re: 2n project in reply to slifnom, 12-25-2013 04:53:13  
Quoting Removed, click Modern View to see

One thing I have found , first hand , is a motor that has sat outside for 10 years will have debris inside the motor . Changing the oil will not remove all of the trash . If you get the motor started it will loosen the crud , suck it through the oil pump to be ground up and sent through the bearings before it ever sees an oil filter .

Most N's can be rebuilt to "Usable" for very little money . Rebuilding to "Pretty" can be expensive .

If it is something you enjoy then it will be a lot of fun . Avoid the "buying lots of new parts" unless it is absolutly needed to make her run again . Once you have her running on her own power , then you can rebuild one system at a time .
Even with the best intentions , basket cases rarely get rebuilt and unless you have rebuilt a few N's it is hard to put Humpty Dumpty back together again when someone else took her apart , which means less money than a whole unit . (there is usually a few missing or broken parts which make it even harder)

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Bruce (VA)

12-25-2013 06:44:23

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 Re: 2n project in reply to slifnom, 12-25-2013 04:53:13  
Before you start, you need to have the 'end game' in mind. You can spend some money ($100-200) getting it unstuck & running only to find out it's got a bad block, etc. So keep that in mind.

Do not attempt to turn the engine over. You could break the rings if they are rusted to the cylinder walls. Pull all plugs, add a cup or more of automatic transmission fluid (ATF ) or Marvel Mystery Oil (MMO) in each cylinder. Pull both valve covers & soak everything w/ MMO or ATF. Scrub it all down w/ a wire brush. Remove the 15/16 hex nut to the right of the water pump. This is where your oil gallery is for the valves/lifters is. Don't lose the little spring under the nut. Use an oil squirt can to put about a cup of oil in here. Replace the spring & nut. Then, start looking for mouse/hornet nests in places like the tail pipe & carb breather hose. Wait at least 2 or 3 days before you do anything, then try & hand crank the engine. (w/o spark plugs) If it does not turn by hand, repeat everything you just did, ie, more MMO or ATF. If it still won’t turn by hand, remove the starter (see tip # 36) and use a BF screwdriver or jack handle on the ring gear teeth to try & turn it over. Once you get it to turn by hand, then change all the fluids (check tips 3 & 4 at the link below for info on the tranny/pump/rear end fluid change) Fluids include oil & filter, oil in the air cleaner, and 50/50 water & antifreeze. Grease all fittings. Replace the points, plugs, condenser, rotor & cap. If the wires are cracked & frayed, replace them as well, or you will spend days trying to find that one short. Clean all connections bright & shiny. Put a couple of tablespoons of oil in each cylinder to help lubricate the cylinder walls & increase start-up compression. Before you put the valve covers back on, coat everything again w/ oil . Clean the fuel screens in the carb & sediment bowl. Spray the carb good w/ carb cleaner. (Some people can get a carb to work like this after setting for years. Some people win the lottery. I have never got away w/ an old carb working; plan on a rebuild). Drain the gas or whatever is in the tank. Add at least two gallons of fresh gas & make sure you have a good flow by removing the bolt at the bottom of the carb. Keep some starting fluid or propane handy. You will need a new battery; it needs a good battery to power the ignition as well as turn over the starter. Just before you try to start it, prime the oil pump by removing the 15/16" hex nut again, & use w/ 90w gear oil this time. Spin the starter over (key off) & make sure you have oil pressure showing on the gauge. Remember, you filled the cylinders w/ oil, so it will smoke a lot when it gets going. Once you get it running, just let it idle for a few minutes while you check closely for leaks (oil, water, gas) & make sure it has good oil pressure. Then, it should be run at variable RPM. Internal parts that would normally have a film of oil have gotten dry. Run the engine up to around 1500 RPM and back down, put it in gear and make a few laps around the yard at various speeds. This will quickly get some heat into the oil and splash oil everywhere it needs to be inside the engine. Continue to watch for leaks, smoke or other problems (like no brakes).

Good luck & check back!

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arnold z

12-25-2013 06:05:29

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 Re: 2n project in reply to slifnom, 12-25-2013 04:53:13  
You may be ahead to buy another, but you'll never know til you really look it over. Sometimes rocking them back and forth with the rear tires and bumping the shifter will free it up. It could be a few specks or rusted solid.The only thing about buying another is you may get the same thing you have, other than someone has done 2 or 3 hours of work to it. Around here, one like you describe would go for scrap price to $500 or 600 if the tires were decent. The same tractor someone pulled out of a brush thicket, aired up the tires, charged or replaced the battery, cleaned the carb and points, and maybe a new set of plugs, they would want $1200-1500. And of course its always some tale like this was old uncle so and so's tractor, and he took care of it like family......etc. Personally, Id rather pull them out of the brush thicket myself, rather than pay for a $1000 tune up.
This post was edited by arnold z at 06:08:39 12/25/13.

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Mr. T. Minnesota

12-25-2013 05:42:00

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 Re: 2n project in reply to slifnom, 12-25-2013 04:53:13  
Have not experienced your 2N situation. One possibly as far as the shiftless tranny, being outside, did water enter the tranny through the shifter? I would check for water in the tranny cavity. If that is the case, sounds like a real challenge. Just a thought??
Mr. T. Minnesota

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12-25-2013 05:37:01

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 Re: 2n project in reply to slifnom, 12-25-2013 04:53:13  
I bought a parts tractor once that had sat outside for too long. The steering was frozen and the transmission also. The forks were rusted to the rails!

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Ultradog MN

12-25-2013 05:35:07

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 Re: 2n project in reply to slifnom, 12-25-2013 04:53:13  
Ns are cheap.
Unless that particular tractor has some sentimental value part that one out and buy a different one.
You'll be way ahead money wise.

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