OT 2000 Ranger

reomack

Member
3.0L engine. Barely runs. Won't run at idle. Throws 1151 and 1131 codes. No vacuum leaks. New plenum gasket. New O2 sensors. Fuel pump comes on with ign switch, then quits-normal. EGR not stuck open-stays cool. EGR sensor checks good. Compression checks OK- 175-180 on all six. Plugs good. Wires good. Plan to replace fuel filter but then I'm pretty much out of ideas. Can any of the expert wrenches on this site help.
 
I am not sure, but, if you do a vacuum check, you will find the Crankcase Ventilation Filter Valve may need changed.

I had a similiar situation with my 1989 Ford Escort, 1.9 L. Check engine light was driving me cerazie. I pretty will changed anything that had to do with the computerizied system.

Even though the engine had no crankcase vent. valve, I found a hole in the vacuum hose that sent the signal between the cranckase and the intake manifold. Changed the hose $$$ and the light never came on again. A month later, some older gentleman did me a favor by rear-ending me and pushed the car into a Chevy pickup with a large trailer hitch that destroyed the entire front end, engine and all. Made some "legal money" from the total loss of the automobile.

Moral to the story.....check the crankcase bvent system from your diagosis. With a bad vent valve, the engine will not idel worth a darn.

HTH John,PA
 
Does that have a coil pack? on my 2001 mazda on of the coils in the coil pack wasn't firing. It waqs the 4 banger though.
 
I looked up the ignition on rockauto and it has a multiple coil in one package. That is the same as the 4 banger has. One of the coils in that package was bad. The truck ran terrible and the check engine light was blinking. I changed the plugs and wires and had concluded I had a major problem. I just bought the truck at an auction pretty cheap so I was concerned. It turned out to be the coil.
 
Try cleaning the MAF sensor with brake clean and make damm sure the tube (bellows are what ever Ford calls it) tween the sensor and the throttle body is not cracked...
 
(quoted from post at 22:10:32 12/06/13) Try cleaning the MAF sensor with brake clean and make damm sure the tube (bellows are what ever Ford calls it) tween the sensor and the throttle body is not cracked...

OP, I am betting this post nails it, hopefully. If not then check the PCV valve for being stuck open, its rare but would be a hidden vac leak, another hidden vac leak would be the brake booster, either of those could be tested by pinching or plugging their vac lines.
 
I would not assume you don't have a vacuum leak with those codes. You may also have two issues. If the IAC motor is stuck open it will cause an inability to idle. A diagnostic tool would read IAC steps and from that you could determine whether it is sticking. You can also remove and clean the IAC motor pintle and seat for carbon build-up. At that time, since the engine would be cold, make sure the pintle is very close to it's seat. If it seems like it's stuck far from it's seat clean it or replace it but it has to move. You need to rule out issues brought up by Hobo, Matt and 4play as well. I would like to know if this driveability issue happens with every start of the truck or is intermittent. You said EGR is not stuck open, but EGR may need to be verified. If all checks well and is clean get it smoke tested. Hope this helps. Gerard
 

What grips my arse is is the lack of fuel pressure/VOLUME test.
I understand you may not be tooled up for it BUT the fuel pressure would rule out a lot of the useless/guess/grunt work...
Its a MUST KNOW SPEC... Yours is a EZ one to tap into so in my mind theirs no excuses not to go their

:wink:

Its also possible the converter is plunged. Yours had a flange and can be disconnected for a test...

What I did like to see in most of the reply's was folks lean towards air management issues. (Thums UP) Today's electronic engine control system's are all about air and fuel management. I can see a air leak affecting idle (we call that UN-metered air) and a engine running at cruise. You statement of NO power at all concerns me... One test is to un-plug the MAF sensor that puts the system in a pre-set program. It still may not idle are even run good but it should be drivable with not much noticeable lose of power....



try unplugging the mass air flow sensor and seeing if the power increased. if it doesn't, i don't think a new maf sensor will solve the problem.

I did a quick search for issues with low power... Folks that deal with these issues daily have one up on DIY wrenches we can weed out the B.S. and build a battle play most of the time that's effective and bypass hit and miss fiddling around...

This stuck out low no power on a V6, it may not apply but sure nuff will have you chasing your tail...

my suspicion was correct on ignition timing as was it with other replies. we removed harmonic balancer to find that ford has, in all their wisdom, decided to make the center section of the balancer out of aluminum which wore out the key way and let the balancer shift on the crankshaft snout thus changing the crankshaft position sensors version of where the crankshaft actually was in it's rotation. replacement balancer was made of cast iron
 
Got it Running, cleared the codes. Still running on 5 intead of 6. will continue to work on it. Found the vacuum connection on the rear of the manifold just sitting next to the fitting and the PCV valve right under it not plugged in . Big mess ups on my part. Fuel pressure is still suspect.
 
Glad you got back to us. Now that you have the vaccuum hose problem cured, and the pcv valve back in operation, your next problem will be sorta baffeling.

I would check the spark plug wire, and, perhaps put a set of new plugs in.

From your orig. post, yyou have good compression on the cyl. not firing.

John,PA
 
I'm glad you got back to us about your findings. Telling us you did not have a vacuum leak when you in fact did mislead diagnostics and should illustrate a point. Our diagnostics are only as good as the information you give us. Several on this board were not mislead because of the experience they have had in the field. In the future please tell us exactly what you have done so we can sort through the information and provide solid advice.
 

That vac line you found off is notorius on the 3.0. the rubber gets swelled and they can pop off or simply leak. Anyway you got it running on 5? What cylinder is missing? check spark by pulling the wires off at the coil, check and compare the spark quality. These years of rangers or 3.0's have their share of weak coils causing misfire concerns. I think on most if not all of them I've seen the spark is weak on the suspect cyl all of the time.
 
To ASEGUY, sorry about the misinformation, I was doing the best I could. I have replaced the 3 O2 sensors, the plugs and wires, the plenum gasket, and the fuel filter. I know the coil packs go south sometimes and will check output, one cylinder at a time, next. Thanks everyone for all the great input, the 3.0 and I both appreciate it. For Soundguy, yes it has a schraeder valve on the right hand fuel rail.
 
I had a 98 Ranger with a 4.0 that had a cylinder misfiring. Hooked up the OBDII code reader and it told me exactly which cylinder was the culprit. I pulled that spark plug and the ground electrode was severely worn. Ain't OBDII handy?
 

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