anyone modified a draw bar as a hitch?

Hey guys,

I bought a cat 1 drawbar from TSC to attach a ball hitch to move my father-in-laws 26 foot jayco trailer the other day. Like an idiot I did not account for the fact that it would easily rotate since it does not have a 3rd point to stabilize it. I ended up attaching the trailer to the front hitch which worked but was certainly NOT ideal. Turned into one of those nights you were glad you didnt kill yourself on the 8n. I have a hill behind my gate and with the tall gear in reverse it did not have a lot of necessary torque or traction. I also had to toss the brushog on to get extra traction on the rear tires but it took all the 8n had not to stall out which it did once. So long and short has anyone modified a standard drawbar to work with a ball hitch. I was thinking of buying a pin the same size as the lower arms which link on to a 3point attachment and putting it through one of the drawbar holes and attaching to top link to keep it from rotating. Any thoughts or pics of a solution. As always thanks in advnace.
 
A draw bar lock will prevent the draw bar from turning but you will also needs stay bars to prevent the hitch from rising up and possibly allowing the hitch to unhitch from the ball when going down hill.

Not sure of the weight of the trailer but moving it with an 8N may be dangerous.

Dean
 
You do know you can buy a swinging draw bar set up that will bolt on the an 8N didn't you?? If you look under your 8N you will see taped holes and that is where the front part of it mounts and then there is another piece that mounts on the bolts that hold the PTO in and then a draw bar to hooks under the rear end.
 
Here's one solution. I use this tractor and setup to move all my trailers and boats around on the property.
042-1.jpg
 
if you simply WANT practice fabbing something up, go ahead.. be crative.

or if you just want it to work. a simple cat1 drawbar lock usually costs less than 20$. here.. tsc..e tc..
 
Here is one that I made from the hitch off of a junk mower. I just welded a piece of square tubing between the bottom pins and a place to put the ball. Just remember never try to pull a tail heavy trailer with this set up. That's why I use it on my IH 350 instead of on of the N's. It has a double acting external lift cylinder and will stay in what ever position you put it
 
I made this one out of stuff I had laying around.
Receiver was a bumper mount I turned upside down.
It just bolts to the drawbar.
I use it to move light weight boat and utility trailers with.
I don't think I'd want to move a heavy trailer with it.

mvphoto823.jpg
 
I move my camper the way Old suggested. Have no trouble at all. Wouldn't be without one. This site sells them.

http://www.yesterdaystractors.com/Ford-8N_Swinging-Drawbar-Kit_49A34R.html
 
Ya the under the rear end swinging draw bar for pulling trailers etc is by far better and safer then the 3 point draw bar. It get the tongue of the trailer in closer to the rear end so a lot less likely to be popping wheelies
 
Solid draw bar is more solid, especially when backing.
I do like being able to back up, lift the 3 pt and drive off though.
It's a lot less climbing on and off the tractor.
 
Oh, here's my quick-and-dirty solution. Has the advantage over the roll locks of preventing the hitch from rising without needing swaybars
a92397.jpg
 
Simple way to get the best of both worlds. Use the swinging draw bar but have the 3 point draw bar on also but under the trailer hitch. So when you want to unhook you lift the 3 point of disengage the ball then lower again to clean the hitch and drive off
 
I got one of these for my 'N

41WlmPCTy4L._SL500_AA300_.jpg


works _great_

I've been using the clevis shackle whatever with a 5/16" grade 30 chain for dragging logs around.
 
ironically i was going to post this to ask if I put it on right...I also put a sway bar on all is working good for now.
a134914.jpg
 

Here's one that will pull a freight train. Dealer install option. This is on my 8N that I use to pull a four wheel trailer when hauling pecans from the pecan groves. Might consider selling it..someday maybe

 
Yep, that's how it goes Dan. Nothing wrong with the locks like that.
As with my setup, I don't think I'd trust them to haul real heavy loads.
They do work great for normal stuff though, at very little cost.
 
And if you happen to have an old, unused bolt on trailer hitch, you can modify it for use on the 3 point hitch ---


mvphoto856.jpg
 
no but a kid makes a receaver hitch on you tube i made one like it . 5 inch c channel on bottom and 3 inch in center 2 of them with 4inch receaver tube.weld ears for pins hour job
 

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