2N Advise Needed

RedDawg

Member
A guy has a 1946 2N for sale here. ( I currently own a Ford 640.) It has been converted to 12V. The tires are weather checked but not too bad. The rears are loaded. It has an almost new 6' CountryLine grader blade ($349 new) on it and is part of the package. I have a couple of concerns.

Where the serial number on the engine block is supposed to be (just to the rear of the oil filter) is all corroded. And it almost looks like it was intentional. The number on the left rear axle housing says 2N4105A2. The seller said he got the tractor from a friend of his that he did work for. His 'friend buys and flips tractors.

It smokes a bit out of the oil fill tube. The oil pressure gauge didn't work cold but started to register as it warmed up. It was about 10 PSI at operating speed.

The brakes are weak and the seller mentioned the rear axles seals probably need to be fixed but as the rear tires are loaded that's going to be job.

It started good and ran well. There was an oscillating (rear wheel speed) grinding sound coming from the rear drums when moving. I suspect the brakes are grinding a bit.

Interesting enough, it had a High/Low transmission which you can see on the first picture - and it worked really well. I put it up into High and I motored right along! What am I looking at here?

He wants $1800 but I suspect it's negotiable. I'm looking to have a second tractor at the farm (food plot and clean up work) that easier to get into tight places than my Ford 640 with front end loader.

Is it worth it? Should I even touch it with the serial number gone? What's the effort on those rear brakes? And what transmission am I looking at? Thanks everyone.

IMG_20131025_133043_073.jpg

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"Is it worth it? Should I even touch it with the
serial number gone?"

I would not worry about the serial number. The
step up Sherman auxiliary trans and the grader
blade add to the value. Subtract them and you get
to 1200 to 14oo which is not a bad price for a
running 2N with OK tires. The smoke out the
breather indicates blow by or else in cold
conditions indicates condensation in the
crankcase. Does the problem lesson when the engine
warms up?
 
(quoted from post at 09:52:28 10/26/13) The smoke out the
breather indicates blow by or else in cold
conditions indicates condensation in the
crankcase. Does the problem lesson when the engine
warms up?

I ran it for about 10 minutes and it was still doing it when it was sitting and idling.
 
If you are used to a 640 I suspect you would not really like a 2N which has no live hydraulics, no position control, no drawbar and odd brake pedals.
I would look for another Hundred or 01 Series.
If you found one with power steering it would get into those tight places with one hand on the wheel.
 
First of all its 67 yrs old it will have issues but yours sound normal and fixable. That said fixing and bringing the back is very fulfilling, cheaper then a head DR but like doctor it will take your money but you will get it all back when you get some seat time. I would fix rear grinding noise now. Buy a repair manual first. Sounds as if you have chloride in tires? They can be drained or moved filled,If you don't drain it. I get a good strong helper to roll it off don't do it yourself you can get hurt. Roll it to a safe place where kids wont be temped to roll it, treat it like a loaded gun.get it well supported. 2 things on the smoke it is blow by and all engines have it.It may be the cap fit or cap is saturated and needs cleaned.Clean it. Start it if it smokes you rings may be stuck. Go to Archives on this site type stuck rings. a member named "old" gives the best post, do what he says.Get a new oil gauge I like " Stewart Warner", dont trust old gauge. It sounds like it all can be fixed. Tractor price vary from area to area. I would offer $1200 He will say 14 or 15 as per your feeling he will take less,you are on your own after that on the price. LOL. The tin looks good, beat up tin mean abuse 95% of the time. It looks ok from here. Serial #s are tricky. Remove all dirt and grease with hand held brush, a lot of stampers at the Ford factory were board with their job I guess and a lot of the numbers are hard too read. Start of seial # is 9N. You may read it once its clean, if not able to read I can tell you how to get it,just post back.If It sounds and runs good and has good tin go for it. POST BACK PLEASE, Master Of the Obvious L.B,
 
(quoted from post at 10:37:03 10/26/13)Serial #s are tricky. Remove all dirt and grease with hand held brush, a lot of stampers at the Ford factory were board with their job I guess and a lot of the numbers are hard too read. Start of seial # is 9N. You may read it once its clean, if not able to read I can tell you how to get it,just post back.If It sounds and runs good and has good tin go for it. POST BACK PLEASE, Master Of the Obvious L.B,

Thanks for the input. Don't know if I'm going to go for this tractor or not yet. I've found the work I've done my 640 to be as rewarding as you refer to - especially when out using it!

As for the serial number - there isn't one to uncover. The metal has been chipped away/corroded/removed in some way. Whether or not it was intentional is unknown but one or two of the suspect edges are ridiculously straight.
 
I have seen about no #s been told it was a new block. Where is this tractor at? Im always in the market.
 
as is, I'd pass.

If he'd let me throw a oil gauge on it as a check.. and it showed some operating pressure at hot idle.. enough for you to use for a few years before a rebuild.. then I'd offer 1200$ if i really really needed a 2nd tractor an nothing else was around.

IE.. if it can hold double digit hot idle oil pressure.

i notice one front hub cap is missing. plan on replacing the bearings at a minimum. maybee the spindle..

i'd sure seal it and repack the bearings.

overall.. I'd simply pass unless you just need wrench practice.

I'd throw another 1000$ with that 1200$ and buy a real tractor.. like another 00+ series..
 
++++

ditto ditto ditto

what he said

hard to go back to eating soup after you've had steak.

that's why i no longer try to mess with N's much anymore.

so close to the same price range as a 00+
 
In my humble opinion you will only use the 2N as a last resort to pull something only. The difference between a 640 and the 2N brake peddles, live hyds (3PTH), as the others said add a little money for a 00 or 01 possably with LPTO and power steering. I have a 8N (30 yrs) and a 861 PS,LPTO,dual remotes live hyd. No comparsion.
 
all the tractors issues aside,
I agree with the others.
Since you have a 640 now, 5 minutes on that N and
you will regret buying it. (or actually hate it :) )
at the 1800 level, there ARE 600's-800's out there
if you look and are quick.
A NAA would be cheap and is basically the same as your 640,
but they do have a few minuses,
8N style rear hubs, a 'only fits NAA' hydraulic system to name a few,
but in good shape they are good tractors
 
Thanks everyone. The counsel was great and just want I needed. It got me thinking about a couple of things I hadn't considered. I was getting a little new 'old tractor' fever. If anyone is interested it is located in Kingston Springs, TN and here is the listing.

If you come to get it let me know. I live less than a mile away and it would be great to meet other YT'ers.

http://nashville.craigslist.org/grd/4151961689.html
 

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