How many quarters to paint a Jubilee???

How many quarters of red paint does it take to paint a 53 Jubilee???

Ordering the paint from Tisco and I notice it is oil base. Have always used water base enamel for implements and trailers.

What do I do different when painting with OIL BASE??????

Any advice will be appreciated. David

i painted a trailer with oil base recently, for a friend [ its what he brought me to paint with] i used naptha to thin for the paint gun, not much different for that over the other but you have a much longer drying time so paint it in a clean area or dirt will be in it, and as usual right where you can see it , id get 4 quarts, your going to want some paint on that tractor at least 4 coats for durability let it tack between coats i did not let it dry and sand between just let it tack up good and shot the next, came out great clean the gun, and i mean clean the gun with the naptha or that will be its last paint job

Depends on what type of paint you buy as to how many quarters it will cost. (lol)

And the painter may charge a few quarters!

Between 2 and three quarts of red and grey...depending on how many coats of finish you apply. I got a gallon of the red and a gallon of the grey. You will have some left over, but it is cheaper than buying the exact number of quarts. I put the remaining paint into empty quart cans to save, and have already used some of it for implements and other machinery.

Do yourself a favor and get the hardener. It makes the paint dry quicker (few hours vs overnight), and have a better sheen. I picked up the hardener at TSC. It comes in 8oz cans, with the mix amount 8 oz to a gallon. Same ratio would be 1oz to 2 cups or 16oz of paint. Mix hardener and paint for only what you are going to use...in a separate container. Once hardener is added you must use the paint or toss it.

For me, cleaning was the biggest problem with oil paint. I sprayed my jube using an inexpensive gravity cup sprayer from Harbor Freight that I connected to an air compressor I already had. It has replaceable cups, so I could avoid having to cleaning those. Mineral spirits is relatively inexpensive, and that is what I used for cleanup. Put a clean spray cup on the gun, fill with mineral spirits, and spray until clear.
Then pull the needle valve and other internal parts and wash/brush them down.

Also, I did prime the beast with a good iron oxide primer. That because I had a good bit of shiny metal after I had prepped the jube.

Oh, forgot to include a picture...

6 rattle cans of rustoleum so far.



not looking forward to doing the loader frame.

(quoted from post at 05:58:23 10/25/13) Oh, forgot to include a picture...

Click to expand...

Dave real nice looking and clean looking. Amazing how these machine's can still look so good at 60 plus years old.
I second the fact of using a hardner. I actually use Japan-dri. Gives a great sheen, very fast dry time and the paint coat dries to a much harder finish. I use it for all metal parts that I paint.

I have used a few of the harbor freight HVLP paint guns. The one I stick with is this one.
lhttp://www.harborfreight.com/air-to...ow-pressure-gravity-feed-spray-gun-47016.html
It's cheap and for the amount of times that I use it, it works just fine. I like it cause it only needs 6 cfm at 40psi.
I'm sure the professionals will disagree but I look at it this way. I'll still get to where I got to go whether I wear a $350 pair of Chippewa boots or a pair of $35 Herman survivors from Wallymart.

The trick that I learned with all Harbor freight guns is that once you get them home, completely disassemble them down to the last thread. Don't worry about what the instructions say. Clean them out and blow out any sealant or Teflon look-a-like tape. You will find that half of the orifices are clogged with sealant. Carefully reassemble everything using a very minimal amount of sealant and Teflon tape.

Practice with the gun and paint some things to get a good understanding of the gun settings. Promise you that you will never go back to a rattle can finish.

average job 2 quarts.. I'd prime it too.

oil base. you got the correct gun for that? HF has them cheap. HVLP or syphon.. etc..

get a water filter.. toss type.

I'd use a hardner.. etc.. If using the common alkyd paints.. the valspar hardner is ok.. but i like the nason quick cure hardner for their single stage enamil.. that should work on most alkyd, syn alkyd and arrilic moded alkyds.. (should ).

I bought a gallon of red and a gallon grey. Used it all but I painted the loader as well. (and a trailer, and some other stuff)

It was two years before I actually finished my project but is was well worth it. The power steering allows me to use one hand, even with the loader on.

I started out just wanting to clean the thing up and not be embarrased to drive it around the neighborhood.

First pic is what I started with. 2nd is finished. 3rd is getting ready to mount the 7 1/2 ft snow plow.

Couldn't have done it without this site. (especially SoundGuy)

The power steering allows me to use one hand, even with the loader on.

Click to expand...

Very intrigued by the addition of power steering. Pixs show only the right side of your tractor with no drag link although I see a pump and tie rod in the last photo. Inquiring minds want to know!

(quoted from post at 02:26:25 10/27/13)

The power steering allows me to use one hand, even with the loader on.

Click to expand...

Very intrigued by the addition of power steering. Pixs show only the right side of your tractor with no drag link although I see a pump and tie rod in the last photo. Inquiring minds want to know!

Click to expand...

This Jubilee had a Sparex add on power steering unit installed. The kit includes single hydraulic cylinder, new steering brackets on spindle, tie rod, modified front crankshaft pulley, modified water pump housing, power steering pump, etc.

The unit was on the tractor and the reason I bought it. It was probably the only thing really working good on the thing.

More info and pics.

http://www.camplulu.com/tractor.htm

more pics available on request.
-----------------------------------------------

Tractors Built 1939 to 1964

SPAREX TRACTOR MODEL

No.

DESCRIPTION EQUIVALENT

Add-on

Power Steering

Conversion Kit

Note: These kits are add-on

units designed for tractors

without loaders. The Cylinder

and/or Tie Rod Assembly may

interfere with loader frames.

1 S.61100 Conversion Kit (Contains: 2-15) 600, 800, 601, 801, 2000, 4000 (Except Rowcrop

Made in USA Gas Models only)

2 S.61085 Pump Kit - Gas

3 S.60371 Spindle Arm - LH

4 S.60373 Spindle Arm - RH

5 S.60381 Drag Link

6 S.60389 Tie Rod - LH

7 S.60388 Tie Rod - RH

8 S.60390 Tie Rod Center

9 S.60391 Tie Rod End

10 S.60483 Radius Rod

11 S.60796 Double Pulley - Crankshaft

12 S.61039 Power Steering Cylinder

13 S.61382 Cylinder Adapter

14 S.61115 Thermostat Housing

15 S.11175 Belt

16 S.61328 Stud - Control Valve

BD, thanks for the info - Have never seen the Sparex add on unit before.

Congrats on completing your project - You must be very proud!!