Remove ProofMeter Needle?

whopist

Member
How do I remove this Proof Meter “needle” without damaging it, or other parts? I am taking two meters to make one!



Please look at the odometers. What is up with this?

The one on the left was removed from a 1952 8N. Notice it has five numbered wheels, then the (black – white) checkered wheel, lastly a blank wheel.

The one on the right is from a 1950 8N with all 7 wheels having numbers.

I might add, the 7th wheel is not visible on either, when assembled.


Thanks for any responses.
 
I used to work for a company that made gauges. We had a special tool made for removing pointers. Even with the tool it destroyed the movement some of the time.

My suggestion would be to use a small needle nosed pliers layed on the side. Put a small piece of wood or plastic (popsicle stick?) on the dial to act as a fulcrum. Do NOT grip the pliers to the shaft! Push down on the handles to pry off the pointer.

Cliff(VA)
 
Gently pry with a small flat screw driver. Apply some penetrating oil first. It'll pop off.

Funny this came up... When I got my 52 the proof meter was as bad as yours. I had a decal made to match the face as it was toast. Rolled back the hour meter after the rebuild (don't tell the DMV :twisted: ) Cleaned it up, little gloss black on the housing, and re-installed

Still need a new cable though, sitting on 2/10 hours and using it couple times a week since July.

A door panel tool from auto supply would work good too.

The reels should measure hours (@ working RPM I might add) not miles. Hourmeter vs. odometer.

The black and white are for 1/10 hours I believe. Never seen the other reel. I have the one on the left.
 

Thanks Cliff, I did that on the first one and the entire needle and shaft came out of the hair spring. I don't think I could put it back together if I had to!

Maybe just cut the new paper dial face and slip it under without removing needle???
 

Thanks for info JCinKY. You know, I never thought of calling numbers an "Hourmeter". Your right of course.

Please tell me how to set it back to zero.
 
Alright, what ya gotta do is carefully seperate each dial on the reel. They don't have to come off the pin, but there has to be adequate space between each one. Between each will be a small metal plate/tab/whatever.

The purpose of the plate is that when the preceding number rolls over from 9, it forces the next dial to roll over to the next number counting up.

The goal is to get all the metal tabs in a straight line and all the dials matched up on 0. It will take a few tries, but it will only work one way. You want each plate to catch so that the plate to the right rolls over past 9 forcing the one on the left to move to the next digit.

Just keep spinning and aligning until you get the tabs and 0's in a straight line, with the 0's naturally on the side that should be facing out.

For a quick test, re-assembly without the glass and connect the cable in a drill. Don't spin too fast, just enough to get them moving and see if you are in fact counting up sequentially. Of course you will have to re-set to get back to 0.
 

JCinKY you are the man!

I went ahead and dissembled the assembly and cleaned it. Glad I did, the shaft had some rust spots and that’s what caused the unit to malfunction on tractor.

Still afraid to attempt to remove the needle though.

 
If you haven't got one already there's a source for the face decal on the other site.
 
(quoted from post at 17:30:11 10/16/13)
JCinKY you are the man!

I went ahead and dissembled the assembly and cleaned it. Glad I did, the shaft had some rust spots and that’s what caused the unit to malfunction on tractor.

Still afraid to attempt to remove the needle though.

Lookin' good. Also check to make sure the worm gear and bevel gear on the shaft line up properly and everything is free to turn. I light coat of lubricant wont hurt anything.

Man, just pop that sucker off there. It won't be that bad. If it pulled the pin and all out, there isn't really any need to remove the needle from pin.
 


Just to give an update.

I did not remove the needle, just printed new face on self stick photo paper and cut it into two pieces and applied it under the needle and screws.

OK! OK! I ran out of ink. I now have the only working 8N that “red lines” @ 2,200 RPM.



PDF file (Proofmeter-Faces, by Mike Taylor) is on the other forum.


Thanks to all!
whopist
 

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