won't throttle up higher than idle

fordboy97

New User
Ok I'm 15 and I'm working on a 1947 Ford 9n for my great aunt.anyway about two years ago I started working on it, since this was my first tractor i learned as i went.i replaced the rings on all pistons and the number three piston, the i replaced all the main, and rod bearings, replaced all the gaskets lapped the intake and exhaust valves ,rebuilt the carburetor, replaced all the wiring and sparkplugs.Pretty much a new tractor, the other day i first attempted to start it, AND IT DID!!! Bit when i tried to throttle it up it would just stay the same i have all the connections on but what give?


Thank you for any advice
 
Check your spark plug wires.Easy to mix them up.Firing order is 1 2 4 3 Distributor cap should be marked.I have seen a china cap with the wrong numbers on it.
 
Will the throttle shaft on the carburetor move when you move the throttle lever?

Remove the intake hose from the carburetor to make sure some varmit has not built a nest in the air cleaner.

Zane
 
Yea the plugs wires are in the right order and the hose is clear, and yes the throttle arm does move but won't throttle up..thank you
 
Can you open and close the throttle plate/lever by hand?
If so, does the engine RPMs increase when you do?
 

did you take off the carb and do any work on it? If not could it be that something is completely blocked inside? Or could the screw holding the butterfly in place be rusted through and it is not moving it? OR could you have connected up the rods to the carb and the governor the wrong way around?

Lee
 
I had the same problem with mine. Had the plug wires in the right order, for a normal motor. A Ford N distributor rotates in a counter-clockwise fashion. I could even get mine to run off one plug, and would run better with the other 3 plugs out. I would go back and check plug order after checking this.
 
Do you have a tach or a dwell meter you can use for a tach to see what RPMs you're actually running? The idle on these is pretty low 600 or 650, and they top out not alot over 2000. To be honest,I'm too lazy to look it up.Exhaust note wise, at full throttle, they'll sound like they're running about the same speed as a idling Nissan or or other OHC 4 cylinder. Wide open is about 1/3 the RPMs or less than a little rice rocket 4 cylinder in a car.

PS: My compliments to whoever raised you. A 15 year old rebuilding a tractor is almost unheard of these days. If you don't get it going, give a holler. I go through Jacksonville now and then, and would help ya out if need be.
 
It almost sounds like you're not getting enough fuel in the bowl to keep it running. If the float level is way too low or flow is way too slow, you'll only get it to idle. Usually, it will try to spit back through the carb when you try to throttle it up. If the main passage is plugged, the symtoms will be about the same. Running for only 10 seconds or so sounds like it is only running on what you get by choking it to start. If your tank is almost empty, it will fill the glass bowl under the tank,but not the float bowl.
 
This will explain it. There's a better pic here somewhere, but this might do. http://www.yesterdaystractors.com/articles/restore/8ncarb/artint231_pg5.htm
You also want to make sure you have a good flow to the carb and the main passage is clear. Rust from the tank will sometimes have to be flushed over and over, before you get it to quit settling where you don't need it. If you search around there are a lot of exploded views of carbs and float setting in old threads.
 


The screw on the left side of the distributor that holds the breaker (points) plate will have to be loose. Take the two bolts out that hold the distributor on and remove it. You can leave the wires attached to the cap, and remove it first. The drive tab on the distributor is offset, so you can't put it back in 180 degrees off. Set it like it is in this pic, then rotate the points plate a little if needed to where the points are JUUUSSSSTTT starting to open. If you can see the gap,it's probably too far. It works better with a test light and power or a meter, to detect them starting open.

21206.jpg
[/img]
 
If you just want to make a small adjustment, just clean around the locking screw on the left side of the distributor. You'll see that the little lock and the distributor body are marked. To advance the timing, loosen the screw a little and move the lock down carefully to a lower mark on the body, and tighten the screw. By doing this, you're actually rotating the points plate, so they open a little earlier. If you want to retard it, you would rotate to a higher mark.
 

We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today.

Back
Top