My 52 is causing me to pull my hair out

I had asked before some questions about my ford nat starting and got alot of responces and I really apperciate all who sent responces. Here is where I'm at on it. I took all the plugs out put oil directly into the cylinders then ran a jumper from battery to + side of coil Tractor fires right up it even runs after you remove the jumper. I let it run for about 15 minutes I cut it off and it wont start back even with the jumper wire. I ordered a tune up kit with wires,cap,button,points and condensor. I have even tried bypasses the ignition switch and that did no work. I know I'm doing the shootgun approach by throwing parts at it, but the tractors been down for about a month and I am getting ------!!!!!

6 volt positive ground side mount distributor
ANY SUGGESTIONS THANKS!!!!!! Paul

Time to start doing some diagnostics. It sounds like you are not getting voltage (or getting low voltage) to the coil. I suggest you get a cheapy multimeter and check that voltage. Then back track the wires until you get battery voltage. That will tell you where the problem is. Cheapy multimeters are available at Wally World, TSC, Autozone, Horror Freight, etc. Should be less than $15.

Also don't put in that tune up kit yet. Find the problem first. Adding parts can complicate things.

In the search box put 75 tips. Bruce Va has a step by step to trouble shoot your problem. If you follow it and still a no go post back.

are you getting a spark from the points after it ran? i'm thinking your coil is heating up and not firing any more when hot..this happened to me. new coil and it's still reliable 4 yrs later.

Check your spark. You need a blue/white spark that jumps a 1/4 inch gap. Bet you have a simple problem like the sad to say common bad condenser yep I do not replace them since you stand a 5-/50 chance it is bad right out of the box.

" I had asked before some questions about my ford nat starting and got alot of responces and I really apperciate all who sent responces. "

That's kind of you to say, but the tractor would be running if you would actually follow the advice you were given the last time you asked this very same question.

And nobody told you to buy & install a tune-up kit.

This is what I suggested on August 29:



What you have discovered is a loose wire or defective part in the ignition circuit between the coil & the battery. Your jumper wire has bypassed the problem.

So far, your only waste of time & money has been on an uneeded "resistor" block. (BTW, if your tractor is indeed a 6v sidemount, it should hot have any resistor; I suspect you are calling the terminal block a resistor block)

You need to identify the specific location of the loose connection or defective part.

Normally I'm not one to suggest disregarding a systematic troubleshooting approach.......but in this case.....jump the ignition switch.

If that does not work, turn the key on, make sure the points are open (see tip # 39) and start by checking voltage at every connection in the ignition circuit from the coil back to the battery.

So, you didn't trace the circuit & now you want to just toss more parts at it?

Go ahead. And when you're done, you will still have the problem.
75 Tips

Letting a tractor idle for 15 minutes will gas foul the plugs.Buying a pile of parts is a waste of money,plus you stand a good chance of getting a junk china part.What do you have for spark plugs?

ditto what the others are saying.

step back, put your wallet down, and pick up a meter or test lamp.

when a gas tractor cranks over but will not start. ALWAYS check spark first..