8N Throttle Control Part 2

Last Sunday I posted having a throttle control issue...the response I got was:

It could be a carb issue Tim, but no need to buy new.

Could also be governor or linkage.

I know you said you checked for binding.

Disconnect the governor and run the carb by hand.

Do you get normal throttle response that way?

If not, maybe a carb issue. Throttle plate loose, etc

If you do, hook the governor back up and try running the

throttle by hand. Does the governor fight your efforts?

I unhooked the carb from the governor and it ran up and down with no problem...it seems to be reving a little high at full throttle, but I do not have a tach. When I would ease off on the throttle and take it down to idle, sometimes it acts like it is starving for gas and stalls. I tried adjust the idle screw up and down and the only time it doesn't stall is if the engine is idling really high.

I hooked the throttle back up to the governor and manually controlled the governor linkage. I did not note the governor fighting my efforts...it moves smoothly.

I hooked the governor back to the throttle handle linkage. The throttle goes from idle to full when I move the throttle handle 6 notches on the quardrant. When I pull the throttle handle to max there is no noticible increase in RPM.

Last, I did check the throttle to see if it is loose and it appears to be properly aligned on the throttle shaft and the screws are tight.

This behavior started after I put a brand new governor in. I did note that the arms on the new governor are in slightly different positions than on the old governor and the spring is much tighter.

Should the carb being going to full throttle so quickly? If so, does the additional pull on the governor beyond the carb being at full throttle there to keep the engine going under load?

Unfortunately I did not observe the behavior of my old governor linkage in relation to the new governor linkage...it seemed that I had more finite control over the engine RPM's.

Any suggestions would be helpful...I am truly stumped and figure that the fix will be simple.

One more thing...the new governor has a proofmeter connection, the one I replaced it with doesn't.

I assume this shouldn't matter??

"I hooked the throttle back up to the governor and manually controlled the governor linkage. I did not note the governor fighting my efforts...it moves smoothly."

Governor should pull back.

"spring is much tighter."

There should be no preload on the spring.

Thanks for the reply...two clarifications

1. When you say it should pull back, does that mean when the arm attached to the throttle handle link is first pulled or when it begins to engage the spring.

2. How do I know the spring is preload and how do I adjust this (not sure what preload means)

One more dumb question..

Should the spring on the governor be resisting the throttle handle pull through the entirety of the quadrant? If this is the case, my spring does not have any tension on it until I have fully opened the throttle on the carb.

I have experienced the same. Did you get a resolution and if so what?

(quoted from post at 14:50:58 08/24/13) One more dumb question..

Should the spring on the governor be resisting the throttle handle pull through the entirety of the quadrant? If this is the case, my spring does not have any tension on it until I have fully opened the throttle on the carb.

Click to expand...

A functioning governor with linkages attached properly should fight you as you open the throttle through the entire swing. The more you open the harder it should try to pull you back.

That said, hook everything up correctly. Now open the throttle by hand. You should feel good resistance from the governor trying to pull it back closed.

Preload is the amount of static force applied. In the springs case. With the governor just sitting there on the bench or installed with the throttle closed, the spring should be neither stretched nor compressed.