Soundguy and Bruce....Please help

Others have tried to help and I'm grateful but nothing seems to work. My 8N front dist. wont start. It ran good for a couple of years but this year it started to ping under heavy load. It even got to the point it started missing under heavy load. If I dropped a gear it ran fine. I finally have it home and am trying to fix it. I checked the spark and it was orange. I put on a new coil. I have a nice blue spark but it only started one time after that and wouldn't start again. I still have blue spark. I took the dist. out and checked the bushings and there is no play in them. I'm sure I could have made a mistake but it has good spark on all 4 plugs. So I assume the dist. and EI are ok. Tried to start it on ether but that didn't work. I have new AL 437 plugs and I just dried and burned them and tried to start it, but it doesn't even try to fire. While I had the plugs out I turned it over many times to clear the cylinders. I checked the volts in and out of coil with it in my hand and got 12.6v. with the coil on the dist. it reads about 5v on the top post. The plug wires are in same order as before and all the plugs are firing. I cleaned fuel sediment bowl and put in new elbow with screen. I took the carb apart and cleaned it but it wasn't bad(rebuilt it a couple of years ago) and gas flows freely from drain plug. I checked the spark with a 1/4 inch gap and they all jump with blue spark. I think I've tried everything others have suggested and nothing seems to work. Any ideas from you or anybody have been and will be appreciated. Thanks, Dave
 
I recognize that sound of frustration!
You have the air breather disconnected I take it. (ether)
If you hold the palm of your hand over the carb throat while cranking
does it have good suction? Does gas come out the throat when you do that?
It shouldn't completely flood, but you should get gas on your hand.
If you don't, you could be getting gas into but not through the carb.
I know you cleaned it, but every once in a while something gets missed.
Sometimes the palm test will actually clear it. (and its free to try)
 
" it reads about 5v on the top post. "

An EI does not work at low voltage.

So, put a battery charger on the battery.

You need a strong battery to:

1. Close the solenoid

2. Spin the starter

3. Engage the bendix

4. Provide voltage to the coil.

As the battery gets weaker, the first thing to fail is your spark. If the battery is almost totally dead, all you will hear is the solenoid clicking.

The more current you use to spin the starter, the less you have for the ignition.


Tell us what coil you are using (6v or 12v) and the resistors you have in-line.

And the EI unit (brand name) you are using.
75 Tips
 
Bruce, I bought the 12v conversion kit from Y/T -pertronics,I think was the name. Battery is at 12.6 but I will put the charger on. I did the conversion 2 or 3 years ago and it has started great all this time. The coil is a 12v square can.
 
How many resistors of what value are you using?

I can get 12v out of flashlight batteries.....that won't start your tractor!

How old is the battery?

Got a hydrometer to check it?
 
Frustration, yeah that's it. I guess the tuff part is the fact that I really like my old tractor it has done so well. My friends tried to tell me I couldn't really farm with it, too small. I'm proving them wrong. This the first real problem I've had. And it runs cheap. Can't wait to get back in the field with it.
 
I followed the instructions in the kit and this is what I have. The original resistor plus another from the kit. The original has 3 post. 2 on top 1 on the bottom. I only have wires on the bottom post. The power from the switch goes thru the old resistor and then to post on the new resistor. Out of new resistor and on to coil. I don't remember the value of the new resistor. Is there a way I can check it with meter? Battery is was new 2 or 3 years ago. I have no hydrometer but I will get one tomorrow.
 
Bruce, The add-on resistor shows 3.5 ohms. The coil(top post to pigtail) shows 2.4ohms. How do I check the original resistor? The bottom post is now being used as a terminal block to connect 3 wires and the 2 top post are not used. But to check it, which post should I test?
 
NOXJohn, I'm down here in Columbia county near Orangeville, a little town called Rohrsburg. From your handle I assume your up towards Noxen?
 
(quoted from post at 06:12:15 08/19/13) Bruce, The add-on resistor shows 3.5 ohms. The coil(top post to pigtail) shows 2.4ohms. How do I check the original resistor? The bottom post is now being used as a terminal block to connect 3 wires and the 2 top post are not used. But to check it, which post should I test?

Is the original resistor being used or not? If it's not in-line w/ the coil circuit, then disregard it. You measure the resistance across the terminals.

At this point, if you had points, I'd say you have too much resistance in the circuit & low voltage. (14.5v/5.9 ohms = 2.45 amps for running current) But, at start-up, 5v/5.9 ohms gets you .84 amps.

Try jumping it directly to the starter post.

Lets see if soundguy or JMOR can help out now because I'm reluctant to tell you to hook up the OEM resistor & take out the kit supplied resistor because I'm not sure of the max current that EI can handle.
 
John B. I will be trying that later today. I want to test every way Bruce comes up with first. I'm still worried that I have made some stupid mistake and he will figure it out.
 
Thank you Bruce, I have to go to work for a few hours so I will get here later. You wrote 14.5 volts, is that what a fully charged battery should show? What is the lowest you accept before recharging? I'm going to buy a hydrometer and learn to use it also.
 
Thank you Bruce, I have to go to work for a few hours so I will get back here later. You wrote 14.5 volts, is that what a fully charged battery should show? What is the lowest you accept before recharging? I'm going to buy a hydrometer and learn to use it also.
 
(quoted from post at 09:27:57 08/19/13)
(quoted from post at 06:12:15 08/19/13) Bruce, The add-on resistor shows 3.5 ohms. The coil(top post to pigtail) shows 2.4ohms. How do I check the original resistor? The bottom post is now being used as a terminal block to connect 3 wires and the 2 top post are not used. But to check it, which post should I test?

Is the original resistor being used or not? If it's not in-line w/ the coil circuit, then disregard it. You measure the resistance across the terminals.

At this point, if you had points, I'd say you have too much resistance in the circuit & low voltage. (14.5v/5.9 ohms = 2.45 amps for running current) But, at start-up, 5v/5.9 ohms gets you .84 amps.

Try jumping it directly to the starter post.

Lets see if soundguy or JMOR can help out now because I'm reluctant to tell you to hook up the OEM resistor & take out the kit supplied resistor because I'm not sure of the max current that EI can handle.
ruce, that is what he needs to do. Replace present resistor with a piece of wire and connect one of the top terminals of the three terminal board to ign switch output and the other top terminal to the top of coil.
 

EI and points suffer from the same issues... It should be a no brainier...

If I were leading him and missed it I would be out to bone'n up on why I missed it... We are all wrong at times its those that never learn from being wrong that will never get anywhere...
 

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