still no starting, but getting closer... Need to sell.

My 50 8n side mount is still non op. Original post is back on 6-14-13 if you're interested.

Original issue was really gummed carb...like 3/4" of crud built up/grew from a missing gasket. Water got inside and mixed with gas. Real mess.

Used to be old faithful tractor.

Carb is all cleaned out now, adjusted float to 1/4 + a hair using drill bit. All orifices wired and sprayed with carb cleaner...all channels clear.

12v batt on a 6 v system. I have a 12v coil. 6v coil got too hot.

Spark at all 4 plugs. Got reintroduced today to a nice bite when I thought I was insulated. yea.

Gap is .025 on lobes with flat gauge.

New napa coil, cap, rotor.

Replaced copper strip to condenser with 12 gauge wire.

Firing order 1-2-4-3. #1 is front most cylinder.

Figured out #1 on distributor cap aok by looking at flywheel for each setting. Ordered plug wires each way. One way, I get a backfire in intake (correct wiring) and the other a chug, chug out of carb (180 out).

I know Hobo said to get a spark tester, so I'll break down now and find one. Seemed to get a nice shock today, but I'll get one regardless.

So, with all this, when I crank it, I get an occasional sharp backfire from the intake outside #4.

I've read that intake backfire means running lean. This makes sense as my old carb was leaking air like a sieve...hopefuly, not so much now. I've been trying 1/5 turns on idler and 1.5 on the main jet. I get a better backfire when I let more gas in.

Gas is not that old. Couple months.

I wonder if my old paper fuel filter should be replaced because it's restricting fuel?

I really need to get this running, so we can sell it. Tough economy has killed my biz, am starting up new biz.

Appreciate any input....Dave

Dave........reset yer carbie; 2-turns on down pointing main jet. (yer quoting 1.5-turns) Yer side-pointing idlemix at 1/5-turns which is close. Remember the side-pointing idlemix is BASSACKWARDS; out fer lean; IN fer ENRICH. Adjust the side pointing idlemix fer FASTEST idle, NOT SMOOTHEST idle. Understand the difference? ......tip: spray WD-40 around yer carb shaft, etc. WD-40 won't burn, but will seal enny leaks. ........Dell

(quoted from post at 23:49:20 08/13/13) My 50 8n side mount is still non op. Original post is back on 6-14-13 if you're interested.

Original issue was really gummed carb...like 3/4" of crud built up/grew from a missing gasket. Water got inside and mixed with gas. Real mess.

Used to be old faithful tractor.

Carb is all cleaned out now, adjusted float to 1/4 + a hair using drill bit. All orifices wired and sprayed with carb cleaner...all channels clear.

12v batt on a 6 v system. I have a 12v coil. 6v coil got too hot.

Spark at all 4 plugs. Got reintroduced today to a nice bite when I thought I was insulated. yea.

Gap is .025 on lobes with flat gauge.

New napa coil, cap, rotor.

Replaced copper strip to condenser with 12 gauge wire.

Firing order 1-2-4-3. #1 is front most cylinder.

Figured out #1 on distributor cap aok by looking at flywheel for each setting. Ordered plug wires each way. One way, I get a backfire in intake (correct wiring) and the other a chug, chug out of carb (180 out).

I know Hobo said to get a spark tester, so I'll break down now and find one. Seemed to get a nice shock today, but I'll get one regardless.

So, with all this, when I crank it, I get an occasional sharp backfire from the intake outside #4.

I've read that intake backfire means running lean. This makes sense as my old carb was leaking air like a sieve...hopefuly, not so much now. I've been trying 1/5 turns on idler and 1.5 on the main jet. I get a better backfire when I let more gas in.

Gas is not that old. Couple months.

I wonder if my old paper fuel filter should be replaced because it's restricting fuel?

I really need to get this running, so we can sell it. Tough economy has killed my biz, am starting up new biz.

Appreciate any input....Dave

Click to expand...

ide mount has two sets of flywheel marks. One will be correct & the other will be 180 out. Sounds like you may have "lucked out" & selected the wrong set.

Most paper fuel filters are rated for a 12 cubic inch lawn mower engine.Get rid of it.

sharp intake backfires always tell me to stop,
and recheck the firing order and/or static timing.

pretend you bought the tractor with the distributor and wires in a box.
get out your book or check the archives for the procedure
for your tractor and static time it. When done, put on your wires in the correct order for your distributors rotation.
Like JMOR said, make sure you pick the right marks
(you will, when you are on the compression TDC)
It'll start, it's trying now.

Side mount timing procedure are located on the "Other N Tractor" site. This should help.

Make sure you are on 4* BTDC on #1. As posted before, two sets of marks. One set is 180 out.

Remove the "!" from the link below.

http://www.n!tractor!club.com/howtos/pdfs/Distributor-8N-Side-Mount-Timing-Procedure.pdf

As a previous poster noted, you are 180 out.

Update: Went out and got a few new parts today. Started working on this last summer, and it looks like I didn't get all new parts for a "tune up."

I was able to rule out some stuff today, so that was good, but it's still not starting, but backfiring fairly regularly at #4 manifold. No where else.

Got cut-to-fit wire cored plug wires, a new NAPA distributor cap (BTW...it has a "1" on the #1 nipple), and AL 437 plugs.

Checked ohms across coil (3.0 ohms), which I understand from www.myfordtractor.com is w/in acceptable ranges. New NAPA coil this summer.

I verified #1 distributor nipple by feeling for the compression cycle on #1 cylinder, so that was nice to get nailed down.

I have never adjusted the timing in 10 yrs, so I left that alone.

Removed paper gas filter.

Added a couple gallons of fresh gas, to ensure sufficient gravity flow and fresh gas.

Fiddled with carb idle speed, idle mix, and main mix as per www.myfordtractor.com's carb adjust page. Along with Dell's advice, very helpful to have something written in detail to refer back to. At one point, I had both mixture screws maxed out for richness, which resulted in consistent backfiring.

I verified:
-Plug wires are correctly hooked up on distributor cap.
-Coil is aok.
-Got a new batt and cables a while back.
-Nice strong spark, so I believe electrical is aok. (I asked for spark plug checker at NAPA dealer....head scratching time. They didn't have one.)

CARB: I tightened the idle handle. It was very loose. Put it on the anvil and carefully hammered the brass end to tighten up the connection. I double checked the float to 1/4". Verified that valve shuts off and goes on (put in water) Checked (again) that all orifices are clean using carb cleaner, wire and compressed air.

After cranking it some 10-15+ revolutions, I pulled plug #3. Bone dry. Repeatedly checked plugs. Dry. Pulled carb and felt inside wall of intake...some moisture.

So. I'm assuming the carb is "carbing," and there is sufficent suction (engine rebuilt 10-ish yrs ago before I bought it). Suction seemed healthy when I checked #1 compression cycle.

Since it only backfires at #4, a backfire in the manifold means a lean condition, the new plugs are dry after many revolutions, I'm concluding it's not getting any gas to the cylinders.

Could the manifold be blocked somehow, with #4 only partly open? Mice or wasp nests? I'll pull it tomorrow and see.

Thanks for any input.
Dave

ps: carb bowl is full of gas, so the fuel is there awaiting to be suctioned. That's how it works, right?

Got any compression???