carltonwebb
New User
Last weekend, I found a good deal on this tractor. It had an almost rollover new box blade, decent 4 ft rotary, and a 4 ft disc with it.
Sheet metal all good and not terribly rusted. A good wash and it will look pretty good to be a 1952. It did not run. Today I drained the gas, cleaned out the fuel shutoff so gas would pass, and filed the points. The wiring is a little on the hacked up side where the ignition switch should be.
In place of the ignition sw on the lower left under the ammeter is an off/on toggle. On the other side, where i think, the proof meter should be, is a rocker switch that I think was for the headlights but they are not present. Those are the only things missing. I thought the ignition switch on these were just under the side of the hood but maybe those are just the jubilee tractors.
This tractor is a 12 v conversion but has a 12 v generator (marked 12v). I have no power to either the regulator or the generator. Does anyone know if this wiring would be the same as the ones for the 6v generators? Or is there another schematic someone knows about? I have wired jubilee tractors with the one wire gm style alt. but figured if this one works, I would re-wire it. I tried to find out through the search and did not find it.
But Happy times , I ran heavy welding jumper cables from my 250 to the tractor. My heavy jump box was dead. Anyway, since the toggle ign switch is all hacked up, i ran jumpers to power up the distributor (well the resistor block) and the other hacked up wires at that toggle, and she spun over a few times and fired right off. Oil psi gauge is not accurate as it sits at about 50 when the tractor is off but did move up to 80 or so while running. It sounded good. The lift will almost bring the rotary cutter off the ground but stops. Fluid is yucky so maybe a good cleanout will fix? I did engage pto and rotary engaged and the 1st and rev worked good too as far as i dared go without a real battery.
On batteries, what size are y'all using for those. I am really excited to get one tomorrow and fix the wiring and take it for a spin now that I heard it run. I need to free up the choke butterfly too. I only put out 700 for it and the implements. I figured the implements and the sheet metal would cover the cost if the engine was bad when i bought it
Thanks in advance for anyone that helps out..
Sheet metal all good and not terribly rusted. A good wash and it will look pretty good to be a 1952. It did not run. Today I drained the gas, cleaned out the fuel shutoff so gas would pass, and filed the points. The wiring is a little on the hacked up side where the ignition switch should be.
In place of the ignition sw on the lower left under the ammeter is an off/on toggle. On the other side, where i think, the proof meter should be, is a rocker switch that I think was for the headlights but they are not present. Those are the only things missing. I thought the ignition switch on these were just under the side of the hood but maybe those are just the jubilee tractors.
This tractor is a 12 v conversion but has a 12 v generator (marked 12v). I have no power to either the regulator or the generator. Does anyone know if this wiring would be the same as the ones for the 6v generators? Or is there another schematic someone knows about? I have wired jubilee tractors with the one wire gm style alt. but figured if this one works, I would re-wire it. I tried to find out through the search and did not find it.
But Happy times , I ran heavy welding jumper cables from my 250 to the tractor. My heavy jump box was dead. Anyway, since the toggle ign switch is all hacked up, i ran jumpers to power up the distributor (well the resistor block) and the other hacked up wires at that toggle, and she spun over a few times and fired right off. Oil psi gauge is not accurate as it sits at about 50 when the tractor is off but did move up to 80 or so while running. It sounded good. The lift will almost bring the rotary cutter off the ground but stops. Fluid is yucky so maybe a good cleanout will fix? I did engage pto and rotary engaged and the 1st and rev worked good too as far as i dared go without a real battery.
On batteries, what size are y'all using for those. I am really excited to get one tomorrow and fix the wiring and take it for a spin now that I heard it run. I need to free up the choke butterfly too. I only put out 700 for it and the implements. I figured the implements and the sheet metal would cover the cost if the engine was bad when i bought it
Thanks in advance for anyone that helps out..