Spindle bushings

it can be removed with a cold chisle and hammer, but its a lot better if you have acess to the correct size driver when installing the new ones in order to not damage them, i have used a deep socket which happened to have a outer diameter that would work be careful, very carfull if you fold the top of the new bushing in you will need to buy another set
 
Most bushings are split - You can drive a pointed punch (at the split) between the housing and the bushing to collapse the bushing and tap them right out.

For the very stubborn ones, I've used 1/2" all thread rod and the correct size washers to pull them out.

It's not unusual for them to require a bit of reaming to allow a smooth fit - Too tight and it will be difficult to steer. If you don't have a reamer, a brake cylinder hone will work.
 
When I changed the ones on my 8n I found an old set inside the housing the p.o. must have just drove them in and let the the next guy worry about them. After a lot of cussing I got them out and the new ones in no reaming was needed.
 
As the other guys said, a sharpened chisel and bushing replacement tool are a big help. I sharpened the angle on this chisel to catch the lip of the old bushing.
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Removal is as the others have noted. When I have installed the new split type they all had to be reamed to fit the spindle. You therefore need a reamer of some type. The only one that I have installed that did not need to be reamed was the non split type. nnalert is the only supplier of the non split type that I know of but there may be others.
 

are these bronze bushings or more like garlocks? are they the whole length of the spindle arm or just on the top and bottom so 4 are required per tractor?
 

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