Gas flowing through carb

I have a 1951 Ford 8n with side distributor that I inherited a couple years ago.
It has been having a problem of stalling almost every time I put it in gear and let off the clutch.
It also would not start without a quick shot of starting fluid each time.
I decided to start troubleshooting by cleaning the fuel system and replacing points/condenser.
I cleaned out the tank, which looks very good inside. I cleaned the inside tank filter (it looked good). I replaced the filter (it looked good) and cork seal on the fuel shutoff valve assembly. I pulled and checked the filter in the fuel inlet to the carb (it looked good).
I pulled the air intake tube running from the carb and made sure it was clear.
I assembled the fuel lines back to the carb. I took out the brass plug on the bottom and let fuel run through. Everything looked clean. I timed the fuel over the course of a minute while it ran into a container and collected about 11 oz, I think. I then replaced the plug.

So, now when I open the fuel valve at the tank, after a couple of seconds, fuel runs out the air intake of the carb. I knocked on the carb a little bit but nothing seemed to change.

What would you suggest for my next step?
Do you think that a carb rebuild is the best option or should I be thinking about some type of cleaning while it is still attached to the tractor?
 

Sounds like it is time to rebuild the carb. You may have dislodged some crud which is holding the float needle open or the float may have a hole in it not allowing it to float.
 

You have some trash under the needle valve ,or a leaking gas filled float that won't float and shut off the gas flow.
 
Guy........you do know ya can't gitt'chur tractor moving while it idle rpms, don't you??? Gonna haffta run yer hand throttle to about 1/3-to-1/2 onna the dash quadrant. And it is perfectly normal/legal to SLIP the clutch to gitt started moving. Don't DUMP the clutch pedal.

Keep yer itchy-twitchy finger off'n them handy-dandy carb tweek'ums ...but... NOOooo you can't leave well'enuff alone. Gotta muck'round, eh? ASK.......and we'll tell'ya how to adjust the weird M/S carb.

Then you confess......."It also would not start without a quick shot of starting fluid each time"; thattza good way to BURN yer valves. You know what happens when you BURN yer valves don't you??? HARD STARTING 'cuz the engine don't have much compression ennymore. You doubt? Do the dreaded compression test. Ford specs: 90psi min (dry) FYI, New engine is about 125psi.

Ennytime you have "starting issues", replace yer sparkies.....NO ARGUE!!!
Recommend AutoLite 437's gapped 0.025". Don't throw yer FLOODED sparkies away, clean'n'dry them, one-atta-time in HOT running engine and save'um fer the next time. (and there will be a next time) ........Dell, yer self-appointed sparkie-meister
 
Check your compression in all cylinders, low compression in one will make it run bad. With low compression will not draw fuel from the tank. jake
 
(quoted from post at 14:38:42 06/27/13)
Jake, The fuel is gravity feed to the carb. Carb to cylinders requires the suction.

If it had low compression would it not also have low suction?

Would it be just the opposite on a different stroke?
 
Well, I still had gas running through the carb, so I pulled it off.
I will order a rebuild kit with a new float and get working on rebuilding it.

After I get that done, then I can continue with the troubleshooting process.

Sounds like my next step after the carb will be a compression check.

I will post back after the carb rebuild and get some help with the next round.

For info, I was unable to start the rig with the throttle anyplace but completely down/off. It would never start with any other setting. I also would have to move it very slowly and carefully if I wanted to increase it, or it would kill the engine.

A very sincere thanks for all the replies.
 

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