Back to the 2N and mower

Glenn D · Jun 19, 2013

I expected this actually. When I got this unit the mower was tilted back because the top link was way too long, as a result the drive shaft would prevent the mower from traveling all the way up on the lift and it wore through the boots. the new top link and adjustment of the chain to the rear of the mower brings the thing up perfectly level. the limiter chains work well to maintain the minimum height too.

But now with the ORC installed the shaft is at too great an angle (I still have to cut the shaft) hen the lift is all the way up. is there a way to limit the upward travel? I kind of torn on this because I'd rather not have the blades spinning when it's up which means disconnecting the shaft anyway so it wouldn't matter in that case, but I can see where there might be instances where I need to lift the mower when it's working.

Sorry for all the questions but it'll only get worse as I have another half dozen implements coming I don't know how to use

sorry for the quality of the pics.

souNdguy · Jun 19, 2013

no reason to have the mower spinning when the lift is at full height and causing pto shaft involvement.

only need to lift it to clear obstacles.

as a side note.. wow.. the pins are tall on that mower.. i think i'd drill and add or weld me on a 2nd lower set!

2ruNgineer · Jun 19, 2013

This is one of the reasons why i bought the Zane Thang for my 2N. Been worth every penny. Don't have to go to full height anymore.
That's a good sized shreader for that tractor, btw.
Not sure about soundguys statement on moving pins down.? If you move the pins up you will lessen the angle at full lift if the top link is adjusted accordingly.

Glenn D · Jun 19, 2013

(quoted from post at 14:50:29 06/19/13) This is one of the reasons why i bought the Zane Thang for my 2N. Been worth every penny. Don't have to go to full height anymore.
That's a good sized shreader for that tractor, btw.
Not sure about soundguys statement on moving pins down.? If you move the pins up you will lessen the angle at full lift if the top link is adjusted accordingly.

Yes the Zane Thang is on the list, but as you see below there is an issue with the control arm that would prevent it from working at the moment. The lift works as advertised except for the position of the arm. in the picture it's shown in the almost all the way up position, i'm not sure whats going on with that. I have to get the 9N running and here first before I get down to the finer points. I also have to free up the brakes on this 2N too.

the Mower is 66"and is maybe a little big but the property is mostly flat and when I had it running earlier it did really well on really tall grass.

[b:81c87bc34c]Soundguy :[/b:81c87bc34c] Not sure what you meant here I see on the mower the lower pins are on extensions way above the deck but I don't see how changing that geometry is going to prevent the interference. also when you say there is no reason to have the "mower spinning when at full height" I don't see how I could accomplish that without taking the shaft off? I was going to put a hanger chain on one side so I could hang the shaft to keep it from dangling when disconnected.

Anonymous-0 · Jun 19, 2013

the first thing i would do is shorten top chain to rear of mower..this will allow the rear of mower to lift .it dosen't need to be level when raised..this should stop drive shaft from hitting..also i would shorten short chains to sides of pto..this will limit the mower from raising too high..i have mine set so driveshaft just misses hitting front of mower..hth...phil

Glenn D · Jun 19, 2013

That might be the answer, are those short chains and brackets strong enough ?. everything i've read said to have the front of the mower a little lower when it's mowing and that's the way it's set now. if I shorten that top chain won't it be even more tilted forward when it's down ? there is a little slack in that chain when it's all the way down. there are only 2 positions for that skate wheel (well 3 really ) at the back of the mower and the lowest might be too low for the terrain so the whole thing might need to come up a bit.

Glenn D · Jun 20, 2013

Thanks folks. it works good now.

I have an exhaust question this 2N has a broken clamp right at the manifold. that seems easy to replace unless it's something special. But the 9N has a tiny pin hole just above where the same clamp is (sounds like a steam engine). should I just braze that up? is this a common place for them to go ?

Anonymous-0 · Jun 20, 2013

i have been using this set up for 30 yrs. the holes are a little elongated but many years left in them...phil

souNdguy · Jun 20, 2013

re=read my post and ponder exactly what I said.. and not anything else.

I'm sure it will come to you.

a hint for the up/spin comment. you are correct. you disconnect a pto to keep it from spinning. IE.. no need to hav ea mower aimed at the sky and spinning like all get out.

a hint for the pin comment. notice i do not indicate this will hav eany effect on your geometry issue.

Anonymous-0 · Jun 20, 2013

the clamp has a top and bottom..be sure you have it positioned correctly..if you can get to hole easely braze it..the hole will probably be tapered ..lay some brass bout the size of a quarter..hth ..phil

gwstang · Jun 20, 2013

Wow, that is a huge mower compared to my little 4' cutter...lol

I have a question. What is that black box thing on the mower at the end of the pto shaft?

Glenn D · Jun 21, 2013

(quoted from post at 22:12:52 06/20/13)
Wow, that is a huge mower compared to my little 4' cutter...lol

I have a question. What is that black box thing on the mower at the end of the pto shaft?

That's just a hood like guard to keep you from easily getting at the and end of the shaft. It's poorly designed. It won't come off with the shaft in place and it makes it hard to reach the bolt .

W_B · Jun 21, 2013

(quoted from post at 12:52:40 06/20/13) Thanks folks. it works good now.

Glenn, what did you change?

In your top pic I see a couple of things that some mentioned already, the lift pins on the mower are higher than I would expect and the top chain should be tighter so the back of the mower lifts higher. I don't use chains on my 5' KK, it runs slightly down hill in front when lowered and the back is slightly up when fully raised. My lift arms on the tractor are angled down more than I see on yours (lower at the mower attachment point, higher at the tractor) There's something about the angles there that aren't kosher. But as long as it works for you! Have fun with it and be safe.

Glenn D · Jun 21, 2013

I actually didn't change anything from the above set up. I jury rigged a stop for the lift so it wouldn't go too high and jam with the drive line. a few bits and pieces later I'll have a more permanent set up. and it will top out before the shaft hits the mower.

My arms do go almost all thew way to the ground. As Soundguy pointed out the attaching points are pretty high on the mower. I guess it could go on tractors with larger wheels.

Caryc · Jun 21, 2013

I'm guessing it's just an illusion but in all your pictures, your back tires look under inflated.

Back to the 2N and mower

Glenn D

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souNdguy

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2ruNgineer

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Glenn D

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Anonymous-0

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Glenn D

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Glenn D

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Anonymous-0

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souNdguy

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Anonymous-0

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gwstang

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Glenn D

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W_B

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Glenn D

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Caryc

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