8n coil not making contact front mt.

Skyler

Member
Hi, I have a 8n coil not making contact front mt. (1949) new 12vt coil. It seems the metal tab on the coil (outer part, not pigtail) is too far away from the contact on the distributor cap.( yellowish brown one)
any comments? also the four sparkie inputs on the cap are numbered. 1234. So I assume the plug wires from the sparkies just match to those inputs on the cap. 1 being closest to the front on the tractor and so on. How does this have anything to do with the firing order 1243. The wires still go to the numbers on the cap, correct? I hope this makes sense it is very late here and I"ve been working on this for 3 days. It ran rough under load and would stall. New cap,coil, condenser, wires, plugs, block resistor, ceramic resistor, and tons of reading. Points at 15. tried 18, got worse. some backfiring, Now no rpms, rough running, cant leave the barn. Fuel is next after I go back to 15 on the points. It comes out of the bowl drain, but kinda slow. all filters cleaned. Thanks for listening, Cal
 
Cal........use a pair of pliers and BEND/TWIST yer squarecan coil blade terminal so it will make contact with the top slot of yer weird 4-nipple dizzy. Simple, eh?

ALL the 4-nipple crab-caps that I've ever seen have molded sparkie numbers that relate to the firing order 1,2,4,3 CCW. It should be intuitively obvious, even iff'n the molded numbers are OFF, hook-up yer sparkie wires to match the REAL firing order 1,2,4,3 CCW. That means you will haffta manually swapp sparkies 3&4 iff'n yer reported numbers on the 4-nipple cap are as reported 1,2,3,4.

You do know ittza 2-bolt, 15-min job to remove the weird 4-nipple dizzy and set/adjust the points (0.015") on the kitchen table, don't you??? Just un-snapple yer capple and letter dangle and walk. Installation is a reversal of the removal ...except... finger start the 2-bolts; install yer rotor and rotate until the OFFSET drive tang fits the camshaft OFFSET drive slot. Now tighten yer 2-bolts and re-snapple yer capple. Simple, eh?

Remember to "polish" the INVISIBLE corrosion from between yer points (0.015") after installation. Me? I clamp a clean $1-bill between the points and pull. Iff'n yer really cheap, tear a strip from HEAVY brown paper grocery sack and use that.

Keep yer itchy-twitchy fingers off'n them handy-dandy carb tweek-ums. They SELDOM go bad. Iff'n ya done tweeked them, 'fess-up and we'll instruct you how to reset them.

It ain't none of yer resistors. Resistors are like lightbulbs, they either work or they don't. The BIGGEST cause of ruff-runnin' and hard startin' is yer weaksister ignition switch. ($10, cheap) ........Dell, yer self-appointed sparkie-meister
 
as said.

BEND the tab.

now. look at theose numbers on the cap.

now think about your fire order 1-2-4-3
 
Hi, thanks. Yes I have turned carb screws. I am about to go at it again. Pulling the dist...is only 2 bolts, but I am so sore. Getting old. Thanks on bending the tab. I have read both of your posts many times in the past. Just couldn't put it all together. Dropping screws on the ground at 2am and having them dissappear, among other little things has turned this into a job. I will report back later. There are so many conflicting posts out there about this and that, 1 ballast or 2 ballast resistors just to name a few drives me crazy. I am glad you two have responded. You guys are knowledgeable I will follow your advise.Thanks, Cal
 
Well I have done everything you said. Last night I had it running very rough w/no rpm. I have played with the wires on the dash as I have added a new resistor block yesterday. Now, no spark at all. 12.8vt at coil top wire. I have reset the new points to 15. Tried no ballast resistor, no luck. I put the old coil back on, still no spark. I am using this diagram for my dash wiring. I changed the key switch terminals a couple days ago as it seems yellow should be on top. May be a problem as I changed other wiring this morning. I probably need to look at the points again, Cal
Thanks to whoever uploaded this diagram. Maybe another diagram would help. There are many on the web with different setups.
 
Don't know where the pic went but you can view it here.
http://s426.photobucket.com/user/Skyler1076/media/8N12vConv.jpg.html
 
Yay, got spark and rpm's. Switched to the new dis cap, which I broke part of the peg off, but good enough. Reseated the old coil. Amp gauge buried to the right, but that may be wiring. So, PROGRESS! Haven't went out to disc yet but I'll let ya know. If anyone has a block diagram I'd like to see it. Thanks to all. I'LL BE BACK! Cal
 
Hi Dell, the caps are marked wrong. You have to put 4 to the input marked 3 and visa versa. Thanks, running good. Cal
 
Well, I mowed for 20 minutes and back to the bogg down, stall again. I wait a few minutes at low idle and can go another 2 minutes, so at least I can get home.
I do have the old coil on there though. Tomorrow I will put the new one back on and see. Bummer, I thought I had it, Cal
 
Cal........yer latest report of boggin'n'stallin' now is time consistent with CLOGGED in-the-tank feed. It aint'chur squarecan coil. That is about 1-hr go-bad time frame. Also consider cracking yer gastank cap 'cuz you could be developing a tank VACUUM that prevents yer gravity feed from feeding. .......Dell
 
Hi Dell, took a short cut. Unhooked the fuel line going to the carb. There was slow stream of fuel coming out. It would turn to drops by the time it went near the ground. Anyway, took the air compressor and blew 40-50lbs air into it. The gas tank was sure bubbling. Then the stream from the carb line increased 4 fold. Hooked it back up and mowed under load for an hour. Ran great, no problems. I know it may be temporary but I'm smiling. Thanks, Cal
 

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